SMART Trip Report 12/18/2011 to 12/26/2011

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jghflash

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
208
Reaction score
14
Location
Bonaire
# of dives
500 - 999
Sipadan Mabul Water Bungalows (SMART) - We just had the pleasure of spending 8 nights at the water bungalows and I have to say it was wonderful. The over water bungalows are great, no complaints about anything. Plenty of hot water for showers and air conditioning at night to sleep comfortably. Quiet, nice view, nice outdoor patio to relax on and dry some swimsuits on the laundry line. They seem to have thought of everything. Even had a TV……I wonder if it worked???

Staff – the entire staff at SMART was excellent. The girls in the dining area were very efficient and incredibly pleasant and polite as they took care of cleaning up after us. The boat captains and boat boys were quite helpful…..since we do most of our diving in Bonaire where we take care of everything ourselves, it was a shock to have it all done for us. Gear was always on the boat ready to go, tanks swapped between dives, camera was always handled very carefully, all the gear rinsed and hung up after the dive….nice. Whether it was the bartender, the girls cleaning the room, the guys watering the plants, they all had a smile on their faces and always a pleasant greeting every time you passed one of them.

Food - Everything is served buffet style and they have a fairly good selection at each meal and plenty of it. Lots of fruit available. Of course, you don’t like everything but there was always enough selection to be very satisfied. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality.

DM’s – this was the only hot and cold area we experienced. None of the staff was bad, just some obviously better than others. As it turned out we had a different DM every day. Normally you will pretty much have the same one during your stay but a lot of folks are there for less than 8 days so it may be somewhat easier to stay with one on a shorter trip.

Diving – First things first, we did 25 dives, 11 at Sipadan. Believe it or not, we turned down 4 dives at Sipadan because we were tired and the 5 AM departure was too much. Life is harsh. This was our first trip to the far east so many of the critters were all new to us, which makes for a great adventure every dive. Constantly seeing new fish, corals, nudi’s, worms, etc. etc. is pretty exciting. The visibility was a bit less than hoped for but that is a function of the time of year I think. The weather was pretty good. Only raining on one day, rained a couple of nights while we slept and sunny about half the time…..no complaints. The muck diving around Mabul had anywhere from 15 feet vis to 40-50 feet on the walls depending on where you were. There was always a lot of “crud” (technical term) in the water everywhere on this trip. Vis was better at Sipadan, maybe 60 feet but still a lot of floating stuff in the water. The critter life at Mabul is amazing and the reefs at Sipadan were in great shape with a lot of turtles, sharks, and the obligatory chevron barracuda and bumphead parrot fish. On first glance, the house reef, at SMART, almost all man made, looks disappointing…..until you start really looking at what is there. It’s pretty phenomenal! We saw a bit of everything including a goliath grouper as big as I am. The best Nemo picture I got was taken directly under the lounge beside the bar!

If there was a negative on the trip, it was in the quality of some of the other divers.......or more importantly, the lack thereof! I have to say it has been years since I have seen divers that bad, no buoyancy control, no concern for the reef, touching everything, standing on the reef, you name it we saw it. I am a photographer and i don't touch the reef, I don't harass the critters, I don't move them, I don't lay on the reef, I don't rest my camera against the reef to keep it still, I don't every wear gloves so that I can conveniently touch anywhere without worrying about something stinging me. On the second or third dives of the day with these groups we simply asked the DM to drop us off first and then take the thundering herd to some other part of the reef. They were quite accommodating to do this......but I would much prefer to have NOT had to make the request just to keep from getting pi$$ed off.

In case you didn’t figure it out, we had a great trip at Mabul/Sipadan. We heartily recommend the SMART water bungalows, you won’t be disappointed.
 
Great report. We are currently trying to decide about diving at Sipidan in May. We thought we may do a liveaboard ( The MV Celebes seems to be the only option) but SMART sounds great. Do you have any idea how the Sipidan dives are shared out? you seemed to strike lucky with the amount you were given :D
I assume the other boat dives in the area were good? Or were your other dives all on the house reef?
 
I am heading to Mabul Water Bungalows at the end of January. I am a little nervous as I have heard this is not the best time of year. I am hopefull that this is far enough past Chinese New Year(January 23rd and I arrive January 30th), that there will be not many people there and have a better chance of diving sipadan as that is the reason for the trip. I am not intrigued by muck diving, I like to see the pelagics. Especially looking for the schooling barracuda and possibility of Hammerheads. What kind of vis could I expect at this time of year? I am assuming it will not be too difficult to get out to Sipadan for two days of our 5 day stay, being low season. I have also read that it is possible to buy permits from other resorts, is this true? I have heard a lot about the macro life around Mabul, are there other dive sites around Mabul/Kapali that have pelagics?
 
From what I could figure out, SMART got 14 permits for Sipadan per day. They also "buy" other permit spots from other operators that don't use them......not sure why they don't use them??? There is no guarantee on the Sipadan trips. When we arrived they said they would promise us one day out of the week we were there. We dove Sipadan on day 2, 3 and 5.......could have gone again on day 6. We certainly had no complaints on how things worked out for us.

There is no doubt that Sipadan is very special. We saw sharks, bumphead parrots, and schooling barracuda and schooling jacks every time we were there. The diving around Mabul is about the little stuff......and there is an amazing amount of it. Visibility sucks, relatively speaking, and it was great fun! Every time you look at another spot on the reef or sand you find another cool critter. The man-made "house reef" structures at SMART hold an unbelievable amount of life. Again, after 11 dives at Sipadan, I passed on 4 more to do three boat dives around Mabul.....go figure. I never would have bet I would do that until I got there and realized that while the two areas are completely different, they both have their allure.
 
One other note......two different times during the trip, once at Mabul and once at Sipadan, we were shocked to hear a loud bang during a dive. The first time it happened, on Mabul, I looked around at our group to see whose tank had exploded. I fully expected to see a large bloody mess somewhere very nearby. According to the DM after the dive, it was "just someone dynamite fishing". I don't know how far the sound travels under water but it was fairly loud and we all felt the concussion of the blast. I was shocked when we heard and felt the same thing the next day at Sipadan. Given the distance from anywhere else, whoever did it was fishing around that island. Amazing!
 
Unbelievable isn't it. Dynamite fishing so near a place as beautiful as Sipadan. The second place I was diving in the Philippines was Malapascua. The diving was great there too but the dynamite fishing was so pervasive that we have given up diving in the country. There are just too many other places to go and you don't have to worry about the fishermen being right overhead or to see thousands of dying fish on the reef. We won't go back to Sipadan either. (which may make many of you happy that I am not taking up any of the permits. :p )
 
.......a few pictures from the trip.
 

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Unbelievable isn't it. Dynamite fishing so near a place as beautiful as Sipadan. The second place I was diving in the Philippines was Malapascua. The diving was great there too but the dynamite fishing was so pervasive that we have given up diving in the country. There are just too many other places to go and you don't have to worry about the fishermen being right overhead or to see thousands of dying fish on the reef. We won't go back to Sipadan either. (which may make many of you happy that I am not taking up any of the permits. :p )

I have also seen some of the local fishermen on Mabul, very early in the morning before sunrise, mixing a suspicious white liquid in plastic jugs and spray containers :-^). When I tried asking some of the locals about it, all I could get was evasive answers, but I'm pretty sure it was cyanide. Not sure if they were using it to collect fish for food or for the ornamental tropical fish trade, but the culprits had a nice boat, so it appears they were making a good profit. Hard to believe that officials don't know and choose to turn a blind eye.
 

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