Snorkel dry vs. not

[Angela2932]

Hi everyone!

I'm hoping to re-take (long story) the pool portion of my PADI open water certification in September. In preparation for this, I've been doing lap swims in the local YMCA with my fins, snorkel and mask. Today, I worked on taking off the fins, replacing them, flooding and clearing the mask, and then tried taking off the mask and replacing it underwater. I ran into a gliche in that I couldn't seem to clear the snorkel. It's not one I bought at a dive shop, but at a sporting good store. It's got a valve that closes off as you go under water. But I'm really not being very successful at clearing it! I thought it should just take a strong force of air blowing out. . . . .but nothing but gurgles! I stood for awhile in the shallow end, filling it with water, and trying to clear the water. .. . but just gurgles! It's not like I have a lung problem or anything!


Than I tried occasional snorkeling/swimming along, and diving down toward the bottom of the water, as part of my "get more comfortable in the water." But when I would surface, expecting the valve to open, it wouldn't. I can reach up and manually move it open, but is this the way it's suppose to work?

So, is it more practical to have a snorkel that DOESN'T have this "dry" valve feature?

Thanks for any thoughts on this!

 

[cmburch]

I thought it should just take a strong force of air blowing out. . . . .but nothing but gurgles! I stood for awhile in the shallow end, filling it with water, and trying to clear the water. .. . but just gurgles! It's not like I have a lung problem or anything!

Than I tried occasional snorkeling/swimming along, and diving down toward the bottom of the water, as part of my "get more comfortable in the water." But when I would surface, expecting the valve to open, it wouldn't. I can reach up and manually move it open, but is this the way it's suppose to work?

So, is it more practical to have a snorkel that DOESN'T have this "dry" valve feature?

Thanks for any thoughts on this!

I have never used a dry snorkel, but if the top tube was above water then it should clear with a short strong force of air you are using. It sounds like there may be something wrong with the top valve since you use a strong force of air to clear it and it just gurgles. When standing out of water, if the tube is full of water the lower valve should empty with little effort (Just gurgles) and a short strong force of air to blow it out the top valve. I have heard that some dry snorkel top valves close too often and may interfere with inhaling so the sticking top valve may mean it is defective. Maybe try returning it.

There are only a few dry snorkels that actually work. Link to dry snorkel reviews Snorkels | Snorkeling and Scuba Snorkels at LeisurePro.com

A regular J tube snorkel should work fine.

I use semi-dry snorkels. They are very dry. But the top does not close.

Tusa Platina Tusa Platina II Hyperdry Snorkel (SP-170) from LeisurePro.com

Aqua Lung Impulse 3 Snorkels | Snorkeling and Scuba Snorkels at LeisurePro.com

If you are planning on using the snorkel for saltwater then a good semi-dry is nice. With a semi-dry there is little chance of swallowing saltwater. I snorkel and freedive a lot in somewhat rough conditions Sonoma/Mendocino, California. The 2 models I listed have comfortable mouthpieces. The Tusa Platina is low profile. The Aqua Lung Impulse 3 are huge, but easy breathing. The top valves on these help to divert any water breaking/splashing over your head and the bottom valve helps to keep the saltwater from entering your mouth.

My wife wanted to take SCUBA classes at school. She use to swim in the next pool during waterpolo practice. I thought she knew how to swim. I discovered she only knew a lopsided breaststroke. I got her a mask and snorkel that got her up and running pretty quickly on freestyle and evened out her strokes. She just had a J tube and still uses a regular J tube snorkel.

 

[fisheater]

Many of the cheaper "dry" snorkels have the nasty habit of freezing shut and letting neither air nor water in nor out. That's likely what happened to you.

IMO, the simple J snorkel is the way to go. NOTHING to break.

 

[cmburch]

My brother broke my USD J tube snorkel when he dropped and then stepped on it.

None of my J tubes or semidrys have broke in the past 15 years though.

 

[JDenning]

A snorkel used to be the simplest piece of technology we used. I suggest learning to clear properly a simple J snorkel. No purge valves at all, you displace the water with air while looking up as you reach the surface. Master that. Then if you like spoil yourself with an expensive snorkel.

But toss that one that doesn't open, sounds dangerous.

 

[spectrum]

Angela2932

Obviously not much can go wrong with a plain old J Tube snorkel.

Your clearing problem sounds like you are not blowing it with enough velocity, you want to pop that water out of there. A quick it more than a long blow is needed. As mentioned if you face up and clear just as you are breaking the surface you will be pushing the water horizontally instead of vertically and have an easier time. In any case any method should work for an individual with good wind.

If you go too slow you may be bubbling out through the purge valve and never clearing the sump.

Make sure the purge valve is OK, seating flat and no debris in the device.

Modern full feature snorkels seem to have a collection of features.....

PURGE VALVE: A little cage valve much like a regulator exhaust valve. The intent is to let you expel a lot of the water without pushing it up. In practice they can allow annoying leaks, are susceptible to sand and needless with decent technique. If you get on be sure that the valve is sheltered in some sort of vented cavity. If it's right out there surge or a quick head movement can open it and water will enter while you surface swim.

FLEX HOSE: A pliable hose connecting the tube to the mouthpiece section. It's a nice idea and can add to comfort making the fit almost universal. Many of these hoses are very supple and are just held on with a mating ring and groove design. In surf or otherwise they can come apart. Add a tie wrap to each connection, just like a regulator mouthpiece. Do the mouthpiece the same way for the same reason. This feature is hardly a "must have" but with a few tie wraps is harmless.

SPLASH GUARD: This is can be simple or incorporated into a a dry valve. The design is meant to keep water from splashing over top and down the tube. It's usually a series of baffles that help the snorkel shed water. With good technique you can clear water all you want. If you are skin-diving on moderate seas this can be nice to have. Regardless of technique blowing salt water to clear gets old after a while. For short surface swims on scuba dives it's no big deal.

DRY VALVE: Often incorporated into the splash guard this gadget means to keep water from entering the tube. It usually incorporates some sort of floating member that will lift or tip a valve to close the opening. If you are fit enough to dive down, you don't need this thing. If you go down and do a barrel roll many can be fooled into opening. The trapped air volume in the tube does weird stuff if you dive deep. Some of the valves will erratically close in a good breeze, denying you air. When they work they are kind of nice but the have too many downsides to be really desirable.

Probably more than you wanted to know but it may help you figure things out.

Pete

 

[irishsquid]

Hi everyone! ...I ran into a gliche in that I couldn't seem to clear the snorkel. It's not one I bought at a dive shop, but at a sporting good store. It's got a valve that closes off as you go under water. But I'm really not being very successful at clearing it! ...So, is it more practical to have a snorkel that DOESN'T have this "dry" valve feature?
Thanks for any thoughts on this!

It doesn't appear to really be a "DRY" snorkel, does it? Get rid of it. If a snorkel was a true "dry" snorkel, there wouldn't be a need to clear it. My snorkel stays dry, cuz it stays in my bag.

 

[cmburch]

If snorkeling or freediving. The snorkel may be better in ones mouth rather than the bag.

Rough ocean conditions, obstacles such as rocks and kelp, long surface swims or long surface intervals it may be easier for SCUBA divers to have a snorkel rather than consume tank air while on the surface.

 

[*Floater*]

FWIW, only the basic J-type snorkels work for snorkel-to-mouth rescue breathing, which is taught by some instructors for use while towing an unconscious diver.

I currently use one of those folding J-snorks so that I can keep it in my thigh pocket.

It's not as comfortable/easy to breathe as fancier snorkels (let's water in more easily, requires more effort to clear), but it's good enough for me since I only use if I need to save my back gas while surface swimming to a descent point, or if I surface without air (after OOA or something), and need to swim back to shore or boat.

 

[irishsquid]

If snorkeling or freediving. The snorkel may be better in ones mouth rather than the bag.

Rough ocean conditions, obstacles such as rocks and kelp, long surface swims or long surface intervals it may be easier for SCUBA divers to have a snorkel rather than consume tank air while on the surface.

I agree. My last comment was more tongue in cheek humor than a recommendation.