Solomons Trip Rept Part 1

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peterjmaerz

Guest
Messages
347
Reaction score
0
Location
Ft. Lauderdale area
# of dives
500 - 999
My 14 night trip on the Spirit of Solomons in November, 2005 could not have been better. Here’s my report:

TRAVEL: I used Delta Sky Miles, so I went where they sent me: Ft. Lauderdale to Atlanta. Atlanta to Seoul (15 ½ hours!). Seoul to Brisbane (10 hrs) Brissy to Honiara (3 hrs). The ATL to ICN and ICN to BNE flights were on Korean Air: great leg room, deep seatback recline and an army of painted-doll flight attendants in suits, hair buns and stiff scarves attended to our every need, including at least two full meals. No problem at all with Solomon Air and none of the airlines gave me any grief for my two large duffels or 20-pound carry-on backpack.
Brisbane, by the way, is a fantastic city. Clean, ultra-modern, beautiful with lots of green space, a nice river running through it and great museums. Definitely worth exploring for at least a day.

SPIRIT OF SOLOMONS: I found the boat to be very comfortable and excellent in its layout.

DIVE DECK: Just behind the bow, the covered dive staging area is quite roomy, with the standard tank holders-on-benches and a large plastic basket beneath for fins, mask, lights, etc. A two-tiered, ribbed, rubber-matted table serves as a camera staging area and towel/miscellaneous storage.

SALON: Just aft, through a hatch, is the salon with two very large, rubber coated tables, two extensive charging stations (120 and 240 volts) and walls lines with reference books. Each diver was offered the use of a plastic basket in which to keep camera/battery/computer supplies. The room was used exclusively for laptop downloading and camera maintenance. One large guest room opens out into the salon.

DINING AREA: At the rear of the boat’s middle deck is a large, covered dining area with tables for 6, each outfitted with plastic stack chairs. The open sides are fitted with roll-down plastic sheets for inclement or windy weather. This is a delightful area for eating or just hanging out and reading. It was never too hot, almost always fully in the shade and featured two very popular hammocks for snoozing at the stern.

BELOW: The remainder of the cabins is below deck. Mine was one of the four single-occupancy cabins, all the way forward. My heart froze when I walked in the door. The curving and sloping hull of the bow of the ship formed the outer wall, leaving about 18 inches of space between it and the bunk beds. There’s about two feet of space between the foot of the beds and the wall opposite and three feet between the door and the curved wall. Not to worry. There’s ample storage (for soft luggage) under the beds. Two open shelves run between the bunks and the hull wall. A fairly deep closet/cabinet rounds out the storage space with enough room (and hangers) to stow a dozen shirts/slacks or more. Then, of course, there’s the bunk you’re not sleeping in for additional storage. I was quite comfortable, though the bunk, with its raised borders, was a snug fit for my 6-foot-plus frame!

DIVE PROCEDURE:


SCHEDULE: 7:00am-breakfast, 8:00am-Dive 1, 11:00am-Dive 2, 12:30pm lunch, 2:00pm-dive 3, 5:00pm-dive 4, 7:00pm Dinner, 8:30 or later-night dive.

RULES: Nitrox users need to analyze their tank before each dive and record the information on a clipboard, along with max depth after the dive. No restrictions on diving. No baby sitting. Some dove deep, some shallow. I sometimes closely followed the dive masters, sometimes buddied up and often dove totally alone. No time limits. I usually dove well over an hour and on a number of occasions, 90 minutes or more. A board with two rows of hooks, one for “on board” and the other row for “diving” holds tags with each diver’s name and tank number.

BRIEFINGS: An extensive, detailed chalkboard briefing is offered before each dive, with every conceivable contingency accounted for and detailed notes on what to find and where to find it.

ENTRY/EXIT: Divers’ gear carried to “tinnies” (sturdy aluminum dinghy’s). Divers’ cameras carefully carried on board. Divers board the tinnies. Once underway, one of the divemasters helps each diver into her/his gear. At the site, no more than a couple of minutes away from the mother ship, divers sit up on the gunwales. Once all are ready, the divemaster or tinnie driver gives a count and, on “three”, all backroll into the water. This usually, though not always, avoided collisions on the surface.
Two tinnies are always in the water, with one always hovering about the dive site. Every time I surfaced, except once, the tinny was within seconds of my position and the driver expertly positioned the boat just out of reach before cutting the prop and lowering a sturdy ladder. Fins are handed up, but not gear (unless so desired—no one did so on our trip). The ladder is a bit challenging, with no substantial handhold topside on the right side, but the learning curve is shallow. Divers are helped to their seats and their tanks slotted in the benches for the ride back to the boat. Once there, divers exit, leaving the crew to haul the gear back on board the spirit and fill tanks for the next dive.
Oh, that “once”, was when I followed an incorrect compass heading to shore from a wreck and ended up around the other side of an island. It only took about 10 minutes for them to come looking for me. All divers are offered the use of large, 8-foot-high safety sausages.

STAFF:

Grant and Sonia, boat managers and dive masters are a wonder. Either, or, in most cases, both of them dive every dive, finding lots of goodies and video-taping the dive. Their enthusiasm is very evident. At the end of a dive they’d be as excited as we were, if not more, at the things we’d found. They also have a really great camaraderie with the rest of the crew and treat them as equals rather than employees.

All crewmembers, while somewhat shy, are super nice and constantly on the lookout for anything they can possibly do to enhance your comfort, safety or pleasure. Chef Wilson was amazing: every meal was creative, substantial and very tasty, ranging from fish burgers to lobster tails, with excellent soups, side dishes and, always, fresh green salad. On many evenings, he’d motor out on a tinny and return a short time later with a huge wahoo or tuna which would, in minutes, find its way to the buffet table as sashimi. (Cookies and popcorn available after the “in between” dives).
 
THE DIVING


Unbelievable. 86-degree water with 80’-plus vis on average, much more on occasion and less infrequently. Little to no current on the whole, though apparently this is not always the case.
This has to be the coral capital of the world. Even if coral isn’t your thing, you’ll be blown away by the amazing abundance, diversity and health of the corals, both hard and soft. There were often huge fields of coral, every inch packed with healthy polyps, stretching away as far as the eye could see. There were football fields of plate corals stacked one edge atop the next. Huge gardens of soft corals in every color. There were numerous hard coral gardens stuffed with 100 different varieties glowing in the sunlight. Sea fans the size of garage doors. I noticed next to no bleaching.
Fish life was equally stunning, especially in numbers. It was common to come across a veritable river of fish, say 1,000 yellow tails, flowing past for minutes on end. Tornadoes of Chevron barracuda. Cumulous clouds of anthias in every color. Bait fish balls descending like fog. Moorish idols, surgeon fish and all manner of butterfly fish constantly cruising by in pairs or groups. Pyramid Butterflies by the dozens along the walls. Countless anemones of all types with their attendant clown fish. Many encounters with dreamily hovering lionfish, often in pairs, once in a group of five! We found one baby lionfish with a body the side of a lima bean! Bumphead ballets with dozens of the lumbering giants expelling huge clouds of fish poop J . I had an amazing encounter with a “small” (15-20 foot) whale shark, apparently only the second spotted in years in the area. A manta ray made a fly-by on one dive. White tip, grey, and black tip sharks made numerous appearances. Three crocodile fish sightings, one jet black!
Exotica abounded. A robust pipe fish ( I still swear it was a leaf!) showed up. Scores of nudibranchs in a dozen or more varieties, including doormat size. Lots of gobies guarding their shrimp companion’s work. Blennies of all types. Hawkfish, Banded Pipefish, pajama cardinalfish, razorfish, pygmie seahorses. Night dives featureed slipper lobsters, hermit crabs, decorator crabs, regular crabs and the evil but strangely beautiful crowns-of-thorns.
Reef structures ranged from sheer walls (often at the perimeter of islands) to pinnacles to gently sloping. The famous Leru Cut is a huge split in the rock which affords breathtaking lighting with shafts of sunlight piercing the depths and an opportunity to surface in the midst of the jungle. Another dive, Mirror Pond, also offers a forest surfacing and the chance to get a great over/under photo (or up to the canopy from below the surface as I got). There were some beach dives and a couple of wrecks. There was not one “dud” among the 56 dives I did and some, especially in the Morovo Lagoon area, I’ll never forget.

TOPSIDE


We did four village visits. Once a week, one of the two Bilikiki boats visits each of the villages. Three offered carvings and jewelry for sale. The proceeds are used to purchase school supplies for the kids, apparently the only use the villagers have for currency. They live a simple subsistence life, without electricity or plumbing, in hand-hewn Sego Palm huts. While many were shy up close, all were extremely friendly and welcoming, often waving both arms and hooting on our departure.
At one village, a dozen or more tiny kids greeted us with fistfuls of flowers. At another, a fantastic dance and song performance in traditional costume preceded a walk about the village with knots of its residents tagging along, enthusiastically talking about their lives in their very limited English and asking about ours. At our departure, every single resident shook each of our hands. It was very moving.


ETC: Most of the nights were spent anchored in very quiet or flat calm lagoons. We’d wake up to spectacular island scenery. Only four lengthy steams, those out and back between island groups and only one of those somewhat rough. If you’re in the bow as I was, you may find it difficult to sleep in rough seas and if you’re prone to mal de mer, as I thankfully am not, so far, you’ll want to bring the Bonine!

The transfer in Honiara is very well handled. I was met at the airport incoming and driven to the Mendana Hotel, on the sweltering shore to await the boat. On the return, I took a day room at the hotel before my 2:00am flight back to Brisbane. Beware of the bathrooms in this well-worn hostelry!

All in all, an amazing trip. In comparison with my other dream cruise, on the Star Dancer in PNG, I’d have to say the Solomons take the prize for corals and sheer numbers of fish, with PNG winning in the overall diversity department. You couldn’t go wrong with either!

 
Oh, and one more thing...be prepared for ice-cold cabins below. When changing out of a wet bathing suit, you'll want to have a sweatshirt handy. Comforters provided are quite warm so sleeping is not a problem.

I'll add some photos in a few days.

Best Regards,

Peter
 
Great report Peter. Excellent writing and I can't wait for the photos. I am doing PNG next year so maybe Solomons is next after that! It would be good if you could post a web site or contact details. How many divers aboard?
Alison
 
Okay, now my mind is drooling for some photos. Sounds like a great trip, now if I could just talk my wife into another long plane ride.
 
I was on the Spirit of Solomons in September and also had a great time. Definitely recommend it. I know what you mean about cold cabins; a couple of times I had to stuff a shirt into the air vent.
 
Getting ready for my first long plane ride (Palau 59 days. . .not that I'm counting). How bad was the jet lag going there and coming back?
 
Hey Tim,

My lag was minimal, even though my adopted time zone was 15 hours ahead of home.

I think there are as many suggestions for jet lag reduction as there are for common cold cures! Mine is to start on my new "clock" as soon as possible before the trip (and before the return trip home). This usually involves staying up all night and trying to sleep during the day a day or two before departure. My thinking is that I'm going to have to go through it sooner or later and I might as well get the hard part over with at home rather than cutting into the enjoyment of my vacation (or my life when returning home). I also plot out all my air travel in terms of the new clock and try to sleep (or avoid sleep) on the plane rides accordingly. If lucky, you may find a flight that coordinates with your new sleep time. If so, I'd get a scrip for Ambien CR or similar timed-release sleep aid and pop one after gaining altitude (and eating a meal, if they're serving one). I managed to sleep for 8 hours straight on a 10-hour run from Seoul to LAX.

If you don't have the luxury of getting a head start on the new time zone, the standard prescriptions are: start thinking in your "new time" asap. Don't drink alcoholic or caffeinated beverages in transit and upon arrival. Once at your destination, stay out in the light during the day as much as possible. And try your very best not to sleep at least until evening.

To me, the plane flights are kind of a release from "normal" life. I bring lots of stuff to do: books, crosswords, PDA games, etc. The flights are not as big a deal as they may seem, especially in light of where you're going!

Have a ball. Let us know how life is on the Blue Corner!

Best Regards,
 
Tim Ingersoll:
Getting ready for my first long plane ride (Palau 59 days. . .not that I'm counting). How bad was the jet lag going there and coming back?

You'll finally have a comparison between the Caribbean and the Pacific. There are some great dives in the Caribbean but there is so much more diversity in the Pacific. I'm looking forward to hearing how you think they compare. Have you picked up a book on marine life for the area you are going to? It does help you become familiar when you see the diversity and species that you've never seen before.
I have found that going in a westerly direction isn't bad at all (plus you have the anticipation). Coming back is the killer, at least for me it has been. Takes at least a week to get some normalcy of sleep patern back. You might ask your physician for some ambien to help the ride down and back as well as to get it right once you are back.
 
Nice report. The Spirit sounds as if it's as good as the Bilikiki, which shouldn't be a surprise since the ownership is the same.
 
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