Sony DCR-PC1000

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H2OPhotoPro:
Hey Steven dont worry about it. we are always happy to help fellow Scubaboard members out. Here are some answers to your questions:

First off, I want you to know you are definately on the right track as far as cameras go. Both are excellent.

One thing I always tell people is...even if it may take a little longer to get everything you need/want..do it right the first time and be happy. That being said you cannot go wrong with either camera...but I would suggest going with the HC1 and a housing (Gates or Light & Motion)...and then saving to get the appropriate lighting system as opposed to going cheaper just so you can have it all now. I think you will be much happier int he long run...after all your camera is probably going to be with you for a while.

If you do decide to go with the PC1000 ( which is fantastic, its my #1 selling compact video system), I would seriously take a look and consider going with the Gates or Light & Motion housings. Akthough slightly more expensive, the build quality, optics, material and controls are far superior than other housings on the market. The available lighting options are great as well for those systems and come in a variety of price ranges.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to send them along via PM or post them here. Good luck on your quest and always feel free to ask away.
Pro,

Your choice of the word "slightly" in describing the price difference from Ikelite to Gates/L&M is puzzling.

Ikelite is $800

L&M is $2500

3X = slight?
 
stevensally:
I was thinking of getting either the Sony DCR-PC1000 or Sony DCR-HC90 in an Ikelite housing with Ikelite video light. However with the advent of High definition I'm not sure if I should hold out and get the Sony HDR-HC1 High definition camera. The problem is if I go for the HC1 I can't afford the video light. Can anyone help me decide. I'm inclined towards the PC-1000 since in the Ikelite housing you can use the screen without a mirror and access most of the cameras functions, however I am worried about the low light performance of the PC1000. Most of my diving is done abroad in fairly clear water and at a maximum depth of 25 to 30 meters. I would be very grateful for any advice.
The Ikelite Pro Video lite is nothing to write home about IMHO.

I suggest you need more than that in England. You be better off getting a housing and then looking for a more aggressive light, which you can buy later.

I came to the same situations you have: $1000! for a light! It costs more than the camera! We've driven the price down on cameras but left the lights behind! :)
 
Shasta Man...sorry about the word "slightly"...yes it 3 times the price but well worth every penny.
 
stevensally:
Thanks for your help. I might be interested in the Mako if it is easily adjusted for the PC1000. Is it in full working order. What sort of condition?. How much do you think you may wan't for it.

My understanding is that the adjustment to go from PC-330 to PC-1000 involves changing the camera tray. But, the best thing would be to contact Light and Motion and ask them the exact price for the conversion. An email to Connor Kirsch <ckirsch@lightandmotion.com> would get you a quick answer.

If we were to work out a sale, I'd ship the housing to L&M, let them make the adjustment and then they could forward it on to you. The housing includes a monitor back. I wouldn't like to do underwater video without a monitor. It also makes the conversion easier because they don't need to align the back to anything.

The condition, with no exaggeration, is perfect. There is a tiny .5cm mark on the front bottom of the housing. Apart from that it'd be hard to distinguish my housing from a brand new one. I look after all my diving gear and especially my underwater photography and video gear.

As for price, the new price was 3,099 USD. Figure out the conversion cost with L&M and then make me an offer. Shipping is going to be about $200 for the journey from here to California and then on to the UK.

Regards
Peter
 
Unfortunately it is not just a matter of changing the camera tray. It is a matter of changing the tray along with the front and rear boards and possible connectors as well. Light & Motion told me today that you should expect to spend about $1,500 to make the changes.
 
Firstly I would like to thank you all for your help. Lots of useful information. I appreciate that there is going to be a significant quality difference between the Ikelite and Mako housings but I'm only a novice and this is my first tentative forray into underwater videography, subsequently I don't really want to take out a second mortgage to buy all this new kit!. The Ikelite option looks to have a few advantages for me, namely its cheap!!, its light (significant factor since most of my diving will be abroad and I can only pack one tea shirt as it is!!), I can see the LCD screen so I don't have to buy one and finally I can see it leak (though hopefully NOT!). For now I think these features will suffice and later if I really get the bug perhaps I will move up to a Gates or Mako.
One thing I don't understand is shasta mans comment about the Ikelite lighting not being bright enough. As far as I'm aware the light can be either 50 or 100 watt with 100 degrees spread. How much light do you think I need !!. As I said I will mainly be diving abroad abroad (my first trip will be to the maldives in February). Surely I will not require more than 100 watts of light!!. Can anyone help clear this new confusion up for me. Cheers
 
Please help choose video light. I am about to get a Sony DCR-PC1000 and Ikelite housing but I'm not sure which light to add. Ikelite do there own pro II light but I can't find much feedback on how good it is. Alternatively I could get one or maybe two underwater kinetics Canon 100 HID lights with change left over. However, I have read some negatives about these. Any ideas which option might be best. Please give me some help asap as I need to purchase soon.
 
It really depends on your budget. I have set up some Ike systems with Niterider lights, and they are fantastic for u/w video. HID lights would of course be your best option. The green force lights are also very nice, and the Squid 50 lights are pretty reasonable for what they offer.

Budgetwise, the UK HID lights arent bad but they are very large and heavy...so I really do not like using them. The Nocturnal Lights are nice, but then that is going to Halogen instead of HID.
 
H2OPhotoPro:
... HID lights would of course be your best option.

.... The Nocturnal Lights are nice, but then that is going to Halogen instead of HID.

Ah, another good old video lighting question. Lots of good reading on video lights if you do a search.

Halogen vs. HID. Yes there is a difference. Is that a really bad thing or just a difference ? Download some clips and let your eyes decide.
 
Thanks for the link. The videos are great but I can't see where it says what lighting is being used?. Is a 10 watt HID better than a 50 watt halogen ?. The HID has 450 lumen output but there is nothing provided by ikelite for there pro II light. Also I'm told the canon 100 bulb is made as thin as tissue paper and breaks easily. I can't find the UK cost of the replacement bulb but the canon light itself is cheap. Looking through the posts most seem to be refering to very expensive light set ups. I would like this but not sure I can afford it.
 

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