Sony rx100 v

[outofofficebrb]

I also have the Acquapazza housing, but I'm just using the 67mm thread for my wide angle at the moment. Removing or switching lenses underwater feels impractical with a screw lens in my limited experience. At least that is true with my wide angle lens because it is pretty large and heavy.

I have thought about getting the bayonet adapter, but I wonder if it is worthwhile to be able to switch between wide/normal/macro during dives or just live with your choice before the dive. For those with bayonet, is it worthwhile? How often do you switch during dives?

I agree about it being impractical (though not impossible) and I would worry about an "uh oh" moment and seeing it go into the abyss or crashing into something and being damaged, especially the WA w/ dome port. It's a lot to juggle in my opinion but I know there are people who do it without issue. I'd also worry about not screwing it on properly and either shredding the thread or not having it be secure because it isn't on straight and then the "uh oh" happening as well. I know that this can be prevented by doing it carefully, too. It's just easier to not have to worry about it for myself.

I don't know how often or that you would really need to switch between wide and normal but could see the need to switch between macro to normal or vice versa.

 

[YCW]

I also have the Acquapazza housing, but I'm just using the 67mm thread for my wide angle at the moment. Removing or switching lenses underwater feels impractical with a screw lens in my limited experience. At least that is true with my wide angle lens because it is pretty large and heavy.

I have thought about getting the bayonet adapter, but I wonder if it is worthwhile to be able to switch between wide/normal/macro during dives or just live with your choice before the dive. For those with bayonet, is it worthwhile? How often do you switch during dives?

I have been shooting macro for quite a few years with a Canon G10. Just switching over to my new RX100 II rig with wide angle lens end of last year. So it is understandable that I am concentrating on shooting mostly wide angle now. So far on my three dive trips with the new rig I started all my dives with wide angle lens attached to my housing. Switching to macro lens, or without any wet lens attached, only a few times.

However, I love the idea of having an option. I do quite a bit of land photography as well with a DSLR. Maybe I am used to the idea of switching lenses. It just feel more flexible, having more options to play around.

 

[YCW]

I agree about it being impractical (though not impossible) and I would worry about an "uh oh" moment and seeing it go into the abyss or crashing into something and being damaged, especially the WA w/ dome port. It's a lot to juggle in my opinion but I know there are people who do it without issue. I'd also worry about not screwing it on properly and either shredding the thread or not having it be secure because it isn't on straight and then the "uh oh" happening as well. I know that this can be prevented by doing it carefully, too. It's just easier to not have to worry about it for myself.

I don't know how often or that you would really need to switch between wide and normal but could see the need to switch between macro to normal or vice versa.

Yes, I agree. It could be quite challenging switching lenses underwater especially when the condition is not ideal. I guess we just have to decide whether it is worth doing it. For example I wouldn't bother if I was fighting a strong current, trying to find the right buoyancy, and there is a pygmy seahorse on a sea fan at the depth of 23m. It will be too tough to do the switching. Too many things can go wrong.

Having a bayonet mount does make it slightly easier to switch lenses underwater. Basically to tighten the lens, make a one-third turn, and it will click in place and feel secure. Where as with a threaded mount I am not sure how many full turns needed in order to secure the lens.

For a bayonet mount theoretically the lens can be fastened in three positions, but only one position will the lens lock in securely. DSLRs all have marks on the lens and mount. Just need to align the marks and turn, the lens will lock into place. Unfortunately Inon and the bayonet adapter that I have do not have such marks. Therefore when underwater the lens could be fastened in the wrong position and not secured.

Worse still, one of the positions the petals of the dome will be at northwest and southeast position which creates some vignetting (the petals should always be at north/south direction)

So in order to make it easy, I just mark the mount and lens with some white marker. When putting on all my lenses, I just need to align the marks and turn, the lens will secure into place.

Align marks

Lens secured

It can be seen in the photos, I only need about one-third of a turn to secure the lens.

I guess it is just preference on the type of mounts we have. For me bayonet mount feels just right. It is also possibly because it is easier to switch lenses with bayonet mount, chances of me doing so will be higher.

 

[Barmaglot]

I've got one of these on my Meikon housing, making attaching/detaching a wet lens literally a snap, and holding it quite securely. Only a few millimeters thick, so at least with Sony 16-50mm lens at its widest and a Meikon wet dome, it doesn't produce any vignetting.

 

[aurgolo]

I've got one of these on my Meikon housing, making attaching/detaching a wet lens literally a snap, and holding it quite securely. Only a few millimeter thick, so at least with Sony 16-50mm lens at its widest and a Meikon wet dome, it doesn't produce any vignetting.

seems not bad..... i will keep as an option

at the moment im thinking about the fantasea FRX100V with swing arm for the macro lens (i already have the dyron DY UCL67II which i currently use with my G12)

actually about the RX 100 it is still not clear which are the differences among mark 3,4,5

i use the camera only for underwater photos (i dont take movies) because for land pictures i use my canon eos700D

does is worth to buy the mark5? .... maybe the faster autofocus makes the difference (especially for macro) or the mark3 and mark4 are enough?

 

[Boaty McBoatface]

seems not bad..... i will keep as an option

at the moment im thinking about the fantasea FRX100V with swing arm for the macro lens (i already have the dyron DY UCL67II which i currently use with my G12)

actually about the RX 100 it is still not clear which are the differences among mark 3,4,5

i use the camera only for underwater photos (i dont take movies) because for land pictures i use my canon eos700D

does is worth to buy the mark5? .... maybe the faster autofocus makes the difference (especially for macro) or the mark3 and mark4 are enough?

The difference between the various rx100 model's would be super easy for you to Google instead of posting here. There are numerous web pages with summary comparison tables and analyses.

 

[aurgolo]

Yes sure............ i have been searching in the web ........but no mention if the faster autofocus of the mark5 is really useful or not ........ especially for macro pictures

maybe somebody in the forum has a direct experience on the topic

i have questioned one online retailer which just told me that the RX100 mark5 is more performing... but also markIV is a very good camera.....well this is can understand myself....)))

good thing is that he confirmed that the swing-arm can be attached to the fantasea FRX100V housing port... so i can re-cycle the dyron macro lens im currently using with the G12
also confirmed no vignetting on the fantasea housing when zooming out at max.... which is also good !

 

[ggibson]

I don't know how often or that you would really need to switch between wide and normal but could see the need to switch between macro to normal or vice versa.

Yeah, that makes sense. With macro lenses I suppose there's also the option of a flip adapter to quickly change and not worry about anything being taken off the housing.

The magnetic bayonet looks cool too.

 

[aurgolo]

Dear All,
im close to the final decision, at the moment rx100 mk5 + fantasea housing + camdive 67mm swing adapter in order to re-cycle my old dyron marco lens

but still not clear one thing: how to setup the custom white balance on the sony rx100?

currently with my G12 i assigned the shortcut button to the custom white balance ....... and in a couple of seconds its done.....
does the rx100 have a shortcut button?

i could not find anything in the web......sigh

tks alot for support!!

 

[Boaty McBoatface]

Dear All,

im close to the final decision, at the moment rx100 mk5 + fantasea housing + camdive 67mm swing adapter in order to re-cycle my old dyron marco lens

but still not clear one thing: how to setup the custom white balance on the sony rx100?

currently with my G12 i assigned the shortcut button to the custom white balance ....... and in a couple of seconds its done.....

does the rx100 have a shortcut button?

i could not find anything in the web......sigh

tks alot for support!!

In short, yes, you can shortcut to set white balance. I haven't used a G21, so I don't know if it's exactly the same, but you can do it.

This is how Sonys are laid out. The RX100 is a small camera, so there aren't a lot of dials and knobs on it. But, there are dozens of configuration options that can be set (one of which is white balance), so all of these configuration options are set via software in the main menu instead by of a dedicated white balance knob. You access this settings menu via the Menu button on the back of the camera. When you press the Menu button, the screen shows you 6 menu category tabs, each of which has one or more submenu pages. In all, there are about 25 total pages of menus, each of which has up to 6 settings per page.

That means the various settings -- one of which is white balance-- are buried inside a pretty large menu structure. Most of those settings you don't need quick access to, but Sony gives you two ways to create personalized shortcuts to quickly get to those settings that you do want fast access to. There are the (1) hardware shortcut buttons and there is the (2) Function menu, which effectively has software buttons.

(1) Hardware buttons: On the back of the camera, there is a dial and several buttons. These buttons come pre-assigned to certain functions like flash mode and self-timer, but most of them (I think 7) are each configurable to become a shortcut that takes you directly to one of the individual menu items on one of the 25 main menu pages mentioned above. So, if you don't need quick access to the self-timer settings, for example, you can change that button to quickly access the white balance menu. There is also one customizable button on the back that does not come pre-assigned to any camera function that you will want to keep (by default, it brings up a help guide, as I recall). So, even if you like all the standard buttons exactly as they are, you still have at least one free hardware button on the back of the camera that you can set to directly access the white balance settings.

(2) Function menu software buttons: Sometimes, people need quick access to a menu item, but they don't need instant access to it with a hardware button (or, they've simply used up all the hardware buttons with more important stuff). Instead of making us look through all 25 menu pages, Sony gives us the Function menu. When you press the dedicated Function button on the back of the camera, the screen shows one page with 12 shortcut slots each of which can be set to a configuration item in the main menu, just like the aforementioned hardware buttons. You press one button to bring up the Function menu, then you use the scroll wheel to select one of these 12 configurable Function menu slots, and that takes you directly to the right page among the 25 menu pages and directly into the specific setting you've set up for that particular shortcut slot.

So, for the most frequently used settings, you can have 1-button access to a chosen menu setting via the configurable hardware buttons. For settings that you use often, but not as frequently, you have 2-button access -- one button to get into the Function menu, and a second press to get into a particular shortcut. Any camera setting not assigned a hardware button or software Function button is accessed through the full, main 25-page menu. Whether you access a setting -- like white balance-- through the main menu, a hardware button, or the Function menu makes no difference, they all go to the same place -- the same white balance setup menu in the main menu.

White balance setup menu: Once you access the white balance setup menu through one of these three methods, you use the scroll wheel to pick a particular white balance setting. You can pick among auto white balance, underwater auto white balance, cloudy, sunny, incandescent, and several more. You can also pick a specific color temperature in Kelvin, or you can set up three specific Kelvin temperatures in advance and then pick Kelvin 1, 2, or 3 instead of trying to dial in a specific temperature number while you're underwater.

So, here are your quick access choices...

(1) Fastest access by hardware button:
press one button to access white balance setup, then use scroll wheel to select a new white balance, then exit.

(2) Second fastest access by Function menu:
Press one button to access the Function menu, then scroll to select white balance setup, then scroll to set a new white balance, then exit.

(3) Use the Memory Recall mode:
You can set up to 3 total configurations, all of them identical, except for white balance for which you've pre-set three different white balance levels. Turn the camera top dial to MR and select 1, 2, or 3. This is faster than either of the first two methods but limits you to pre-set white balance choices.

(4) Shoot in RAW and figure out your white balance later when you're back on land. Fastest of all underwater but adds processing time on land you don't have if you use jpgs. For your efforts you get maximum possible image quality and more salvageable shots.