SpyderCo has a winner

[hdiaz]

Hi Joyce,

I'd like to see something that resembles the blunt tip Gerber River Shorty but with a line cutter incorporated.

See: http://www.gerbergear.com/product.php?model=5640

Hector

 

[Ber Rabbit]

I love my Spyderco Police knife because it holds an edge well--you can shave with mine. Thanks for pointing out the new blade!

I too would like to see something with a line cutter that can handle the metal leaders you see on some fishing lines.
Ber :lilbunny:

 

[Green_Manelishi]

Hello everyone.

Just wanted to introduce myself and say "hi". I was surprised to see you posting about the Spyderco Salts.

Green Manelishi, thanks for your positive comments, it's appreciated! I work at Spyderco and we released the new Salt models at this year's DEMA Show. So far response has been great. One thing we keep hearing from divers is we need a fixed blade Salt. Since we're already talking knives here - LOL ....would you all mind me asking what type of knives you use and prefer?

We've a fixed blade rust-proof Salt in a prototype stage now and thought what better way to make the knife as functional as possible than to ask the folks that would use it? What size, shape, length works best for you? For sheathing and attaching to a BC (or your person) is there a particular system that's good, not so good?

Thanks! Great and friendly community here. I've been having a good time lurking and learning. :10:

Joyce @ Spyderco

Hi Joyce,

Welcome.

I currently carry a Buck Intrepid. It's a fine knife but I modified it so it better suited my needs.

1) Most dive knives don't need a point. A point is nice for penetrating when the knife is used as a weapon

2) full tang with Removable scales. Scales trap water and add what might be unnecessary "fullness" to the handle.

3) serrated edge. preferably NOT a chisel grind.

4) sheath should be kydex (or other rust proof material) and friction fit rather than a
locking mechanism

5) no need for a line cutter. That's what the blade is for

6) cutting edge should be 4-5 inches. 6 is too much. 3 or less is too little.

7) hole for lanyard near end of handle

If you need someone to test a knife, let me know. I can use it when I recover the next batch of lobster traps.

 

[Rickg]

Hello everyone.

We've a fixed blade rust-proof Salt in a prototype stage now and thought what better way to make the knife as functional as possible than to ask the folks that would use it? What size, shape, length works best for you? For sheathing and attaching to a BC (or your person) is there a particular system that's good, not so good?

Joyce @ Spyderco

Joyce,

Something on the order of the Ocean Edge (originally Tekna) Dive Knife (blunt tip with line cutter) now available through Tek-Tite

http://www.tek-tite.com/src/product_info.php?id=936

One piece construction is nice because you don't have to worry about disassembling the knife to prevent it from rusting inside the handle and a easy-to-operate "positive" locking device is a must.

Rickg

 

[Cfdsmokeater]

Hi joyce. Welcome to the board.

Have carried a spyderco in my bunkers for a year now and like It alot.

As for diving, full tang, blunt tip, line cutter. Leg straps and BC mountable at the least

I have seen many Fire depts around here use the Gerber on PFDs/BCDs and such for many years, so it seems to be a pretty trusted design.

 

[Joyce @ Spyderco]

Thanks for the kind welcome and great feedback. I shared your input with our R&D Dept. they love getting suggestions and act like it's Christmas when they get feedback.

Couple more questions:

It looks like most dive knives have a double edge -sharpened on the top and bottom of the blade. A good thing in your opinion? Would a knife be any safer/easier to use if it were sharp on just one side? Should the sharpened side be serrated, plainedged or half-and-half, and on the top of the blade or the bottom?

Most line cutters we've seen are positioned on the back of the blade. Is it ever difficult underwater to get the line into the cutter? Any value in positioning the cutter closer to the front of the blade's tip? If the knife were aggressively serrated would it need a line cutter?

Strangely, the challenging part for us has been creating a sheath and how that sheath holds and releases the knife. We're trying for something left/righthand friendly that's secure without being hard to draw the knife from. A terrible thing to loose your knife.

Our proto is solid H-1 steel construction with thin FRN (fiberglass reinforced nylon) slabs attached to the handle's sides. No cavity. What color would you consider most visible underwater for the slabs? Should the sheath be a bright color as well?

LOL- tired of all my questions yet?

Thanks and happy (upcoming) turkey day!

Joyce @ Spyderco

 

[Tom Winters]

Couple more questions:

It looks like most dive knives have a double edge -sharpened on the top and bottom of the blade. A good thing in your opinion?
One edge is enough.

Would a knife be any safer/easier to use if it were sharp on just one side?
Probably safer.

Should the sharpened side be serrated, plainedged or half-and-half, and on the top of the blade or the bottom?
All serrated works is my own preference.

Most line cutters we've seen are positioned on the back of the blade. Is it ever difficult underwater to get the line into the cutter?
If the blade is serrated, then the line cutter feature isn't really necessary.

Any value in positioning the cutter closer to the front of the blade's tip? If the knife were aggressively serrated would it need a line cutter?
See above. Also, the line cutter notch towards the rear of the blade aids in controlling the blade when you're working it on monofilament.

Strangely, the challenging part for us has been creating a sheath and how that sheath holds and releases the knife. We're trying for something left/righthand friendly that's secure without being hard to draw the knife from. A terrible thing to loose your knife.
The UK Remora is the knife I have on my main plate, along with a dedicated line cutter. I can reach and release the knife with either hand, and the knife seems to sit well and secure in the sheath.

Our proto is solid H-1 steel construction with thin FRN (fiberglass reinforced nylon) slabs attached to the handle's sides. No cavity. What color would you consider most visible underwater for the slabs?
The Remora has yellow inserts which I can see well enough if I drop it, although I have a bungee wrist loop on it.

Should the sheath be a bright color as well?
No need for it.

LOL- tired of all my questions yet?
Ax away.

 

[Cfdsmokeater]

All of the following is my personal preference and my experience with fire gear.

One edge is enough, but a wide angle grind (25degrees or more) for both sides sounds ok. I would prefer a full serrated and a full or half sharpen side.

I think the reason most line cutters are to the back is because of the the taper of the blade. Putting the "cutter" to the front would result in a weak point near the tip of the blade. For that reason alone, I would find it benifical for the "cutter" to be back near the handle with the girth of the knife.

Make the knife hard to pull. Any mechanism that required two hands or that would be difficult to opererate with gloves would be a pain. A dive knife needs to be unsheathed with either hand.

Color, umm. To tell the truth, I have always found a neon pink most visible underwater, but you will never find me wearing it. The fire service seems to lean toward bright reds and yellows. Red posses a problem with diving due to the fact it is one of the first colors of the spectrum to be lost @ depth. So go with yellow. The case dosent really matter, but could make it more visible if a buddy needs it.

Hope this helps.

P.S. I was showing one of my coworkers my spyderco @ one of the stations the other day, and found my spyderco, gerber multi-tool, and my door chalks gone 2 shifts later. Serves me right. I'll find them sooner or later. 200 sets of bunkers to go through.

 

[Doc Intrepid]

I use SpyderCo's Rescue version of the same folding knife as a backup. I attach it with a small SS boltsnap to a bungee inside my thigh pocket. Problem is that if I don't take it out immediately during the boat ride back to shore and rinse it off, it starts rusting almost immediately. Leave it in the pocket overnight unrinsed and I have to get out the steel wool. While its a great knife, the conditions under which I often use it aren't real conducive to optimal maintenance. So, I'm glad to see a no-rust version of it available.

In terms of fixed blade knives the SP K-3 is what I use, and while the shape, etc. could change I'd have a hard time conceiving of a knife that would be superior.

As noted, it needs to be carried somewhere near the centerline of your body, where it can be grabbed instantly with either hand. Chances are that if you ever need it, you need it suddenly and you need it bad. Here's a pic:
http://www.scubapro.co.uk/products.asp?P=490

And it may just be me, but I've not had as good luck with fixed blade knives cutting through wire leaders, gill-nets, or the newer fireline and spyderwire-type fishing lines. Shears are better for cutting netting, in my experience. JMHO...


BTW, Joyce - welcome to ScubaBoard. Hope we can give you some feedback!

Doc

 

[Green_Manelishi]

Thanks for the kind welcome and great feedback. I shared your input with our R&D Dept. they love getting suggestions and act like it's Christmas when they get feedback.

Couple more questions:

It looks like most dive knives have a double edge -sharpened on the top and bottom of the blade. A good thing in your opinion? Would a knife be any safer/easier to use if it were sharp on just one side? Should the sharpened side be serrated, plainedged or half-and-half, and on the top of the blade or the bottom?

Most line cutters we've seen are positioned on the back of the blade. Is it ever difficult underwater to get the line into the cutter? Any value in positioning the cutter closer to the front of the blade's tip? If the knife were aggressively serrated would it need a line cutter?

Strangely, the challenging part for us has been creating a sheath and how that sheath holds and releases the knife. We're trying for something left/righthand friendly that's secure without being hard to draw the knife from. A terrible thing to loose your knife.

Our proto is solid H-1 steel construction with thin FRN (fiberglass reinforced nylon) slabs attached to the handle's sides. No cavity. What color would you consider most visible underwater for the slabs? Should the sheath be a bright color as well?

LOL- tired of all my questions yet?

Thanks and happy (upcoming) turkey day!

Joyce @ Spyderco

One cutting edge is sufficient; two is frequently viewed as a weapon. Besides, if the spine is sharp there is no completely safe way to grasp the blade when changing hands.

Color is irrelevant because it washes out at depth.

The sheath that Buck provided with the Intrepid was ideal; friction fit, no locking mechanism.