Strobe vs video light

[Hanzl]

I'm not sure if this has been asked before, but I would like to get some information on the positives and negatives of using video lights vs strobes for taking still photography. I have a Sea and Sea 8000, have one strobe now (S&S YS 110), and have been taking many many pictures learning the ins and outs of it (drives my wife nuts ). When I use the strobe it seems like I am always waiting for it to cycle and then adjusting the brightness after the first shot. I used a videolight recently and it seemed to work fine except there was a hot spot which I think I could eliminate with a defuser over it. I did aim the light further out and the spot was mostly gone but then the far side got a little dark so maybe 2 lights. As I see it, the video lights will show me exactly what the picture will look like and except for having to turn them off and on, I can't seem to see a negative (no pun intended... well ok, maybe a small one)

I'm sure there will be a number of suggestions, but I'd like to hear any thoughts on specific ones as well.

Thanks

Hanz

 

[rjsimp]

Hanz,

Besides the hot spot you are seeing, video lights just aren't very bright compared to the strobes. The YS-110 cycles very fast, so I am not sure why you are waiting for it to cycle, it is probably the SS-8000's internal flash you are waiting for to cycle since I remember it being very slow when I had one.

I have heard of people using video lights for macro shots since you can get close and the light would not need to be very powerful for (in fact, stobes don't use full dumps for macro). For anything beyond macro though, the strobe is going to be needed to get the light wide enough and bright enough to really show the colors.

My experience with video lights is that you would be MUCH better off with strobes. There isn't a whole lot you can do for the cycle time though since the 8000 (when I had it anyhow) didn't have a way to keep it from doing a full flash, so it runs the battery down fast and takes longer to cycle. That's why I progressed to the SP-350 then shortly after that went with the D200. The SP-350 though is a much better camera IMO than the SS-8000.

 

[Hanzl]

Rich,

I never thought about the camera being the delay, but that makes sense. I'd put new batteries in the strobe and it seemed like it took longer and longer to cycle. Not to mention that the aiming light always seemed to work on the strobe. That also explains the difference in color temp between the video lights and strobes.

If I may, we are on our way back to Truk so money is once again at a premium so no new camera this year. I do need another light source to elliminate the dark spot my wide angle lense causes (maybe partly from the camera flash even though the defuser is up), would you recommend the YS-250 PRO?

 

[rjsimp]

Rich,

I never thought about the camera being the delay, but that makes sense. I'd put new batteries in the strobe and it seemed like it took longer and longer to cycle. Not to mention that the aiming light always seemed to work on the strobe. That also explains the difference in color temp between the video lights and strobes.

If I may, we are on our way back to Truk so money is once again at a premium so no new camera this year. I do need another light source to elliminate the dark spot my wide angle lense causes (maybe partly from the camera flash even though the defuser is up), would you recommend the YS-250 PRO?

Can you provide some examples of your pictures? I can see what you are looking at with your light.

You should be able to get enough light with the YS-110 for your wide angle, however, if you are not close enough that can be a problem or if your strobe aiming is off it can cause heavy shadows. Obviously it is easier with dual strobes on wide angle, but a single strobe can work.

As for the 250-Pro, it is brighter, but it is much bigger and heavier. It also uses dedicated batteries so you have to recharge the strobe not just slap in the next set of AA's. I use the 110s, they are smaller and bright. I have used the Inon Z-240s and they were okay, but I like the 110s better.

For less than the cost of a 250-Pro though.. you could get a better camera than the 8000 that wouldn't have the long delay.. If I remember, it seemed like it took 7-10 seconds to recycle each time.. Then the photos themselves were a bit noisy meaning they sensor didn't seem too clean on the 8000.

 

[Hanzl]

How do you put pics on? Then I can show you.

I was getting a cresent dark spot on the lower side of my pics with the wide angle. I would also get a too bright picture on the first one, then no flash on the next one. Makes a guy want to scream and throw something, but because of the strap it kept coming back

So, even though the camera is done writing to the card, the flash may not be fully charged and so won't run the strobe?

I read in one of the other treads that you blackend the inside of the housing with electrical tape to help prevent the back scatter from the flash. Did it work?

My big concern is that I want to get good strobes that will be useful after the 8000. (From more reading I may want to move forward at some time, but I do like it for now.) I hate respending money. I did notice the weight was quite a bit more and the dedicated batteries for the 250.

Thanks for your help

Hanz

 

[rjsimp]

You can upload your photos to ScubaBoard Here.

I had blacked out the case totally so there was no light leakage. That is key for getting the best picture quality because the leaked light will mess with you and cause back scatter and other lighting oddities. With a fiber sync cord, I did have a few mis-fires from time to time, but that was with a YS-90. I haven't used that for the YS-110. If you are trying to use the slave mode on the strobe without a fiber sync cord, then you can't black out the camera case because it relies on the light from that flash to fire the strobe.

I would be able to tell more based on your pictures. The other thing is your settings. What was your mode you were shooting? If it was auto, that wouldn't be too good because the camera is going to think it is dark and up the ISO, and open the Aperture and slow the shutter down to accomodate. You really need to shoot manual to get the best pictures. That doesn't mean you have to adjust for each shot, many times, you can leave shutter speed alone and adjust the aperture to change your picture exposure.

I'm glad you want to get good strobes, that is a fault many make and not thinking about. The 250 though is IMHO is just too much.

I have some pics I took with the 8000 I could post if you are interested but I wasn't real happy with them at the time. I got a few good ones though.

 

[ScubaSteve]

........I do need another light source to elliminate the dark spot my wide angle lense causes........

Perhaps I missed something but the only dark spots I have ever experienced with my WA lens is the vignetting on the outside of the frame when zoomed fully out. Is that what you are talking about perhaps? If so, simply zoom in just a little and those black spots will disappear. This is not to say you do not need another strobe and/or light, but I do agree that you will not get the intensity of the light from a light that you will a strobe.

Enjoy Truk.....I am envious. Post pictures.

 

[Hanzl]

Perhaps I missed something but the only dark spots I have ever experienced with my WA lens is the vignetting on the outside of the frame when zoomed fully out. Is that what you are talking about perhaps? If so, simply zoom in just a little and those black spots will disappear. This is not to say you do not need another strobe and/or light, but I do agree that you will not get the intensity of the light from a light that you will a strobe.

Enjoy Truk.....I am envious. Post pictures.

Thanks, we will. It is our 2nd time in 2 years. We love it.

Please see the album I created (the only one I have right now) called flash issues and you will see the dark spots on the left bottom. From reading and the postings I'm leaning towards another YS110a, I think that is the new one and will fit my needs and future needs. I shoot zoomed out all the way for most shots.

Thanks,

Hanz

 

[ScubaSteve]

OK. I now see your problem and I agree that it is not vingnetting. As you can see the picture below, I ran into a similar problem in Bonaire last week. I do not entirely recall the circumstances though. I know that I changed a silly setting (I honestly think I turned my strobe on - see, I am a professional ) and the problem went away.

A second strobe is still a very good idea because your good shots will get even better, but you can still get away with one of wanted. I read earlier in the post some good advice. If you cannot turn off your flash (internal) for any reason, the make sure it is completely blacked out so that it does not interfere.

Anyways, I look forward to your Truk pictures. Perhaps they will convince me to go with a small group of friends that are already planning a trip for next year.

Thanks, we will. It is our 2nd time in 2 years. We love it.

Please see the album I created (the only one I have right now) called flash issues and you will see the dark spots on the left bottom. From reading and the postings I'm leaning towards another YS110a, I think that is the new one and will fit my needs and future needs. I shoot zoomed out all the way for most shots.

Thanks,

Hanz

 

[rjsimp]

Thanks, we will. It is our 2nd time in 2 years. We love it.

Please see the album I created (the only one I have right now) called flash issues and you will see the dark spots on the left bottom. From reading and the postings I'm leaning towards another YS110a, I think that is the new one and will fit my needs and future needs. I shoot zoomed out all the way for most shots.

Thanks,

Hanz

The YS110a's are good.. They recycle very fast (less than a second) and the S-TTL is supposed to be better ( I don't use that feature though ).

As for your pictures, what is your strobe placement? Are you shooting in manual mode or auto mode? The distance shots look good as you are getting the strobe light out there, but the close up ones look like either you are only getting internal flash blead through (causing major back scatter) or the strobe is behind your head. I would be willing to bet, your strobe is not in the right place and the light you are seeing is the bleed through on the camera flash. The reason is, the shadow you are seeing looks like the shadow the camera lense port will cast on close up shots when using an internal flash.