Suggestions for getting my first dive computer

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RCPort

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Hi
I was wondering if anyone could give me any suggestions on a good dive computer. I only really dive when I go on holiday so I am looking for one that is watch sized so I can wear it for most of the time. I have had a look at different computers but was hoping for other people's opinion as I am not sure what would be the best.

Thanks
Rachel
 
watch size means a premium over the entry level puck computers. the watch computers in the 300 dollar range also have too much plastic compared to a decent watch and i feel they just look cheap. you could get a better looking dive watch and a puck wrist computer for the same price as the watch style computer. not until the oceanic OCL or the scubapro mantis/chromis in the 600 dollar range do they start looking better.

the oceanic geo is one of the most popular if you still want to get a watch style computer.
 
Hi Rachel

This is a vexed subject.

People have their own opinions on brands and algorithms. If your vacation diving only then algorithms, don't really come into play as the DM's set the dive times and depth by their NDL

All the entry level computers will be sufficient in that they support Nitrox

Given your location of the UK, then best to choose a brand you can easily get in the UK rather than having to import

The main brands are (in no particular order) If you're not comfortable changing yoru own battery then make sure you get a brand you can get serviced locally

Suunto
Aqualung
Oceanic
Scubapro
Cressi

Cressi Giotto, Suunto Zoop and Suunto Nova's are those I have seen.

With Suunto and Aqualung you can be sure that pretty much every location in the world will support minor things if it has a glitch on holiday.

Of course if you are looking to increase your diving in the future then the entry level computer might not be right for you as you may want something with more features, only you will know. An entry level computer starts at about 150 pounds

As a start I'll suggest Simply Scuba and Water sports warehouse as a couple of UK online retailiers

Regards
 
watch size means a premium over the entry level puck computers. the watch computers in the 300 dollar range also have too much plastic compared to a decent watch and i feel they just look cheap. you could get a better looking dive watch and a puck wrist computer for the same price as the watch style computer. not until the oceanic OCL or the scubapro mantis/chromis in the 600 dollar range do they start looking better.

the oceanic geo is one of the most popular if you still want to get a watch style computer.

The Oceanic Geo 2 is a a good, basic computer. I have been diving one as a backup for over five years, more than 600 dives. It has 2 gases, which is generally not necessary for a 1st computer. It has dual algorithm, DSAT and PZ+, each with a conservative setting, giving a lot of flexibility in the choice of a decompression algorithm. Personally, I find it too large to wear as a watch. It is very easy to see, as good as many larger computers. In the US, it goes for about $350, a download cable goes for an outrageous $100

Learn a little about decompression algorithms in some of the other 1st computer threads before you make a decision. The topic is often contentious
 
Do women in the U.K., like in the U.S., tend to wear watches considerably smaller than men's? If so, I question whether any wrist dive computer is going to have that 'elegant, feminine' look. Do you really want to wear your dive computer on your wrist all year, or are you just wanting to wear it all through the vacation without it looking clunky and strange?

Richard.
 
Take a look at the DeepBlu computers. Under 300 bucks, bluetooth download. 3 conservatism settings and you can adjust your ppo2 to tweak those. I like mine and especially like the screen. Deepblu
 
There was a Suunto D6 going for £150 on the UK Scuba Stuff for Sale Facebook page yesterday.

As above the disadvantage of a watch style computer is they are very expensive and harder to read. The also make you look like a bit of an idiot if you wear them out of an evening.

The dive show is in a couple of weeks and online retailers usually try to take the wind out of the shops that go by doing deals for the week before and after.

I have a club mate who bought a single button computer, it has no average depth and only records about 4 (or some similarly ridiculously small number) dives. It is tedious to set up, which really means it is hard to set your Nitrox mix. Beyond that buy the cheapest one. That will probably be an old model Suunto Zoop.
 
Hi Rachel

This is a vexed subject.

People have their own opinions on brands and algorithms. If your vacation diving only then algorithms, don't really come into play as the DM's set the dive times and depth by their NDL

You do her and everyone that follows and reads this a disservice.

SOME vacation diving is shallow and most people will get low on air before they run out of NDL. But, SOME vacation diving is deeper, where NDL is more likely to be limiting - so algorithms DO come into play.

Also, it's not hard to find vacation dive operators that will rent you a bigger tank - I've rented steel 100s and 120s.

And, it's also not hard to find dive operators that will let you dive your tank, rather than give you a time limit.

The last time I was in Hawaii, I dove with Kona Diving Company. I rented 100s and (for the Manta Ray night dive) 120s, AND their policy is to let you dive your tank. Most people diving a 120 can easily last longer than their NDL, if the dive is deeper than 60'.

It happens all too often that some people here on SB put THEIR own normal way of diving on other people and then advise on a computer based on that, but without making clear what assumptions they're building into their recommendation. As you've done here. If you ASSUME an AL80 or shallow diving, then what you said is valid. But, not making that clear does the reader a serious disservice, I think.
 
Rachel:

What's driving some of this debate over algorithms is, different dive computers use different ones to determine how long the computer recommends to be safe for you to stay down with minimal risk of decompression-related problems; the NDL time. Adding to this complexity is that there's more to it than depth & time on a given time; there's profile (e.g.: zig zagging up and down on a dive) and surface interval between repetitive dives.

In a nutshell, some computers by reputation give longer NDL times - 'liberal,' and some shorter - 'conservative.' Suunto is often said to be quite conservative, Oceanic liberal, some others moderate, but IIRC which company uses which computer maker had something of a shake up last year, so it might be useful to pay attention to specific model (e.g.: Oceanic Worldwide Atom 3.1) when you read threads.

You'll find threads debating the impact of algorithm, and specifically whether Suunto is particularly conservative and to what extent that matters, and it's been pretty hotly debated!

You don't have to stay down to the (theoretically riskier) NDL limits of a liberal computer, but if you get back on the boat with a conservative computer beeping because you violated deco., the boat staff may stop you from diving for awhile.

But you'll find on the forum that Suunto has some fans for other reasons, and most people don't advocate choosing a computer just by the longest NDLs you can get.

Do you anticipate particularly deep diving, spending much of the dive 80 feet or more deep, just to pick a number? Do you anticipate your vacations including high frequency repetitive diving, such as on a live-aboard diving 4 - 5 times/day for days on end?

Richard.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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