Thanks For The New Forum!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Messages
2,047
Reaction score
11
Location
Minneapolis, MN
# of dives
200 - 499
This is great. Now we can share info on how to use our cameras better.

String:
Problems ive found with A40 so far...

(i) wont work with external strobes
(ii) internal flash even in good vis tends to backscatter a lot
(iii) shutter delay makes photographing moving objects difficult or blurred
(iv) LCD is hard to read underwater if its light (cured by glueing a shroud to case)
(v) Case is incredibly positive in the water, letting go for 1/2 second and its floating above your head. Think i'll cure this by adding some weight.

No question, the camera is a good introduction to digital and UW photography but those are the things i dont like about it so far. Even an idiot like me can point and shoot getting some OK results from time to time with it.

1. Any camera that has an internal flash can use an external strobe in slave mode. DO a search and you'll come across a number of folks who use strobes with their Canon A and S series cameras.

2. Yup - that's why a strobe is a great addition.

3. I've found that pushing the shutter button only partway prefocuses the camera and helps this problem immensely. Trade off is that you or the subject can move alot causing out of focus pictures.

4. Especially in shallow water.

5. I use a 4" snap bolt to make mine neutral. I've seen new weights that Canon has started offering to screw to the bottom of the camera.

This is why we need this forum. :D

Marc
 
I had my new Canon s50 out today and had the above mentioned problems:

difficulty reading the LCD screen in shallow water due to reflection;

focus - I was trying to depress the shutter half way but I had trouble getting it to lock and the wee focus light to stop flashing - not sure what my problem was because I was not too close and I was trying to operate with a narrow apeture for good DOF;

positive bouyancy -I knew it was attached to my BCD but bugger me if I could find it;

Anyway I am glad to see a specific forum.

Alison
 
FLL Diver:
This is great. Now we can share info on how to use our cameras better.



1. Any camera that has an internal flash can use an external strobe in slave mode. DO a search and you'll come across a number of folks who use strobes with their Canon A and S series cameras.

2. Yup - that's why a strobe is a great addition.

3. I've found that pushing the shutter button only partway prefocuses the camera and helps this problem immensely. Trade off is that you or the subject can move alot causing out of focus pictures.

4. Especially in shallow water.

5. I use a 4" snap bolt to make mine neutral. I've seen new weights that Canon has started offering to screw to the bottom of the camera.

This is why we need this forum. :D

Marc

Agree here.

1) Inon strobes have been made with attachments to fit this housing.
2) You are not getting close enough. Nobody can shoot wide angle with the internal flash.
3) All little digis including the olys have lag. The Canons are actually one of the best in this regard. Push the button half way and use the camera in manual so it doesn't have to do exposure calculations
4) cant fix this one - make your own shade if your that annoyed by it
5) add some weigth. Canon now have some specific. Or buy a tray/arm which is usually heavy enough - especially once you add a strobe.
 
String:
Problems ive found with A40 so far...

(i) wont work with external strobes
(ii) internal flash even in good vis tends to backscatter a lot
(iii) shutter delay makes photographing moving objects difficult or blurred
(iv) LCD is hard to read underwater if its light (cured by glueing a shroud to case)
(v) Case is incredibly positive in the water, letting go for 1/2 second and its floating above your head. Think i'll cure this by adding some weight.

No question, the camera is a good introduction to digital and UW photography but those are the things i dont like about it so far. Even an idiot like me can point and shoot getting some OK results from time to time with it.

i) I can get it to work with an Ikelite Sun Strobe :)
ii) All Camera's have that problem. Stick with macro until you get a strobe (and Macro tends to be "easier" anyways)
iii) Yep...Digital cameras at their best...I have a whole collection of fish butts because they got spooked before the picture was taken and my finger had depressed the button. But on the other-hand, you get instant feedback on a shot, and retake it right then and there (That is by far the biggest improvement in my picture taking...along with taking lots and lots...and getting 10 that work :wink: )
iv) I shield it with my hand if there is too much glare. Mind you..I've had more problems with fogging than not seeing the LCD.

v) I don't mind that. I have it clipped to my right D-Ring, and when I don't want to use it it just floats under my arm and behind me (I use one of those Lanyards, that have the coils but can be clipped to be short.)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom