Threading weights on belt correctly

[SereDiver]

I currently use a weight integrated BC. After starting to dive with a drysuit I realized that I needed to use more weight than when I'm diving wet. Diving wet I use 16#, diving dry I use 24-26#, so I start to max out the space in my BC weigh pockets. I've decided on going back to a weight belt (first time since my OW class, 100 dives ago) but only for 6-8 pounds, the rest in my BC. Question is: what's the correct way to thread the weights on the belt? Do I need to use belt slides (serrated/nonserrated) to keep the weights from sliding around on my belt? If so, do they go right before and right after each weight? Or is it good enough to fold the belt over as I lace it from one slot to the next on each weight? I'll be using block weights and would rather stay away from pocket weight belts. I know this seems like an incredibly basic question but it's been a long time since I've had a weight belt on. Thanks in advance for the info.

 

[Gombessa]

I'll be using block weights and would rather stay away from pocket weight belts.

If your block weights are like these, with two slots each:

Then what I like to do is to place a triglide (belt slide)--doesn't matter if it's serrated, but the non-serrated are slightly smaller and work fine--directly on top of the weight where the webbing goes over it. That keeps the weights in place and doesn't take up any extra space on your belt.

 

[rcs9250]

In open water class when we use hard weights we have the students thread the belt through one slot , put a half twist in the belt then continue through the weight on the first and last weights on the belt. This is to prevent the weights from sliding off the belt on the non-buckle end and prevent the weight from sliding toward the buckle on the other end.
The half twist uses up some belt though so sometimes to gain a couple inches we use the keepers you mentioned. Keepers are made from plastic and steel and serrated and non-serrated as you mentioned. It doesn't matter that much which style unless your weight belt is very soft , then I would use the serrated so the weights don't move.

The way they are used is this. Thread the belt up from the bottom, then put the belt through both the keeper slots and then through the weight. The keeper will look like the buckle on the traditional pilgrims hat. That will keep it in place.

I do it that way for each weight but it isn't necessary if the belt is relatively new and rigid.

P.S. We usually have the heavier weights toward your front side to minimize going turtle. Sounds like you will be using minimal weight though.

 

[Jim Baldwin]

I currently use a weight integrated BC. After starting to dive with a drysuit I realized that I needed to use more weight than when I'm diving wet. Diving wet I use 16#, diving dry I use 24-26#, so I start to max out the space in my BC weigh pockets. I've decided on going back to a weight belt (first time since my OW class, 100 dives ago) but only for 6-8 pounds, the rest in my BC. Question is: what's the correct way to thread the weights on the belt? Do I need to use belt slides (serrated/nonserrated) to keep the weights from sliding around on my belt? If so, do they go right before and right after each weight? Or is it good enough to fold the belt over as I lace it from one slot to the next on each weight? I'll be using block weights and would rather stay away from pocket weight belts. I know this seems like an incredibly basic question but it's been a long time since I've had a weight belt on. Thanks in advance for the info.

When I'm diving with my drysuit I wear a SS B/P with my PST HP 120 tank. This give me all the weight I need to dive comfortably.

However, when I'm teaching and using my HP 100's I wear a weight belt. I use the plastic tri-glides and have four pounds per side positioned exactly where I need them. The weights don't move. Used this setup for years without any problems. The tri-glides go in the middle of the weight if you are using flat weights like in the pictures above not on the ends.

 

[scarefaceDM]

With your BC in a drysuit...if you can go with a steel tank. This will help balance you out along with the weight belt. As mentioned the triglides/slider laced with the block weights work best. Bigger block can go to the back close to the tank as the smaller weight goes to the front just near the hip bone/obliques.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

Well, it sounds like the OP's question has been answered already.

The only thing I'll add is that apparently there are some people out there (at least one boat captain here in CA) who think that using a weight belt with a weight-integrated BCD is dangerous and at the very least inconvenient from a rescuer's perspective. The boat captain revealed that on at least one occasion when assisting in a rescue at the surface, he was surprised to have a problem diver begin to unintentionally descend after he ditched the diver's weight-integrated pockets. Personally, I feel that a 6-8 lb. weight belt along with weight-integrated BCD pockets is a perfectly acceptable weight configuration.

I only mention this to remind you to inform your buddy and boat crew of where your weight is located. This can be helpful in an emergency situation. Just something to think about...

 

[mdb]

The OP is getting some good informed answers regarding weight belt use.

With a 7mm FJ hood attached wetsuit, diving a single steel 80, I use 22 lbs of weight-2/2lb weights on the tank band a 5lb weight in each weight integrated pocket, and a four pound weight on each side of my weight belt. Seems to help with trim, and I can get 8 lbs positive by just ditching the weight belt, if need be.

I do agree with Bubbletrubble about informing buddies or crew about where your weight is located.

 

[Notso_Ken]

Well, it sounds like the OP's question has been answered already.

The only thing I'll add is that apparently there are some people out there (at least one boat captain here in CA) who think that using a weight belt with a weight-integrated BCD is dangerous and at the very least inconvenient from a rescuer's perspective. The boat captain revealed that on at least one occasion when assisting in a rescue at the surface, he was surprised to have a problem diver begin to unintentionally descend after he ditched the diver's weight-integrated pockets. Personally, I feel that a 6-8 lb. weight belt along with weight-integrated BCD pockets is a perfectly acceptable weight configuration.

I only mention this to remind you to inform your buddy and boat crew of where your weight is located. This can be helpful in an emergency situation. Just something to think about...

If you maintain good bouyancy, removing any one of the 3 weight sources is more than enough to get you started up. I dive frequently with this config, and when doing rescue training, it poses absolutely NO problems.


Ken

 

[Notso_Ken]

With your BC in a drysuit...if you can go with a steel tank. This will help balance you out along with the weight belt. As mentioned the triglides/slider laced with the block weights work best. Bigger block can go to the back close to the tank as the smaller weight goes to the front just near the hip bone/obliques.

I'd recommend splitting the big one into 2, and putting them in front, one on each side. Too much lead in back can contribute to a rolling tendency for the weight to seek lower levels.


Ken

 

[Bubbletrubble]

If you maintain good bouyancy, removing any one of the 3 weight sources is more than enough to get you started up. I dive frequently with this config, and when doing rescue training, it poses absolutely NO problems.

@Notso Ken: I agree with your statement...so long as the rescuing parties are aware of the weight configuration. I think the problem in the scenario I described was that the diver had loaded a majority of his weight on a weight belt...so much so that this overcame the positive buoyancy of his suit at the surface. When the surface rescuer ditched the near empty weight pockets and removed his BCD, the diver started to sink.

I think you'll agree that surface support folks and the diver's buddy need to know how to rapidly establish positive buoyancy for a given diver. This is something that a diver should discuss with the boat crew and buddy prior to hitting the water.