Trip to Roatan and Utila April 26 to May 10th

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Jack Scuba

Contributor
Messages
121
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0
Location
Toronto
# of dives
100 - 199
First off sorry about the delay in posting. It has been a very hectic few weeks!

I feel that if I don't put this down now I will procrastinate and never put it up.

We stayed at Turquoise Bay Resort on the North East side of Roatan from April 26th until May 1st, then went to Utila's Utopia Dive Village from May 1st to May 8th. Then we returned to TB for our departure on Monday, May 10th.

Turquoise Bay Resort.

My expectations were low for this place as the reviews were a mixed bag. That being said they were a friendly bunch although not the most organized. When we arrived there were only 2 other couples out of a possible 26 rooms. The rooms were really clean and there was never an issue with having hot water - bonus! The food was passable as long as it wasn't the buffet. There were 4 pasta dishes, 4 red meat dishes, some fish dishes. Sides were steamed veggies, rice, potato or fries, with lunch and supper. I was never hungry and they also knew how to make a stiff drink. No complaints on that front! Although if you're a picky eater, or you don't like ordering the same types of food it would get boring really quick! Oh, and avoid the burgers - the ground meat was 'different'. There was a large enough gap between the morning and afternoon dive that you could eat lunch and not feel rushed - but to be honest it was vacation so most of the time I just napped in the afternoon.

We dove the entire week with 3 other guests - the rest of the boat was filled with DM/instructor candidates. The 'professionals' did their own profile and usually went elsewhere so I didn't see them during the dive. The boat itself seemed to have issues with a diesel leak and caused me no end of problems. I am prone to seasickness and diesel fumes don't exactly put me in my happy place. On two occasions I broke the surface of the water and got a film of diesel in my mouth. After that I would remove my fins 2 feet below the surface and then climb the ladder. When asked about the problem they said it was just in the bilge - but the quantity of the slick said otherwise. Either way it was fixed by the end of the week.

Staff at Subway Scuba were really nice and took to their roles well. Our DM was a guide and pointed out things when he saw them. At one point we missed a landmark and he was visibly confused about where he was. If I was a new diver I would have felt uncomfortable, but as it was I enjoyed the dive other than having a small barracuda follow me for a while (he was attracted by the dangling brass clip on my camera - oops!). He apologized, which was unneeded, and then during the SI we found a pod of dolphins so any disappointment quickly evaporated.

On every dive we saw lots of life, but we almost always saw hand-liners or spear-fishermen in the water. Seems very, very short sighted to me. But I am not struggling to feed a family either. I understand this to be illegal, but there is no funding for enforcement. If it doesn't change soon there won't be much left.

We did 2 dives in the morning and then a night dive mid week. The most enjoyable part for me was the Aquila wreck and Starfish channel.

My dive buddy has only dove in Nova Scotia so it was also fun watching him do his first tropical dives. And with that in mind I should mention our night dive.

Him: "it has been so warm I am going to do this dive with just my shirt"
Me: "Well are you at least going to wear a hood."
Him: "nah, it will be fine."
Me (while chuckling): "Ok then..."

20 minutes into the dive he starts poking at his neck. I shine the light and figure it is the BCD rubbing his neck causing irritation and give the universal shrug of "you got me". We keep swimming and after he gets the guide to take a look - which also doesn't help. My buddy wants to thumb the dive so we head back to the mooring and during our safety stop play with the bio-luminescence. At this point I am thinking he's just uncomfortable but we've dove together enough that if he's thumbing a dive it has to be something important. Once we're on the boat he strips down and I can see where the jellyfish has stung his neck, then travelled inside his shirt and stung his back. The captain pours vinegar on his neck and along his back then tells him to suck it up. Not a huge deal and we're laughing about 'told you so moment'. Then everyone else starts coming to the surface and excluding 1 other diver everyone has gotten stung - the worst is a french diver who took it on the lips and cheeks. Ouch!
Not sure how I got away with no stings in my hood, rashguard and shorts.

Fish live didn't seem too diverse in the spots we went to. There was lots of it, but it wasn't too diverse. This was the exact opposite in Utila where there was lots of diversity but not a lot of it.

At the end of the week we were hoping to take Cap'n Vern to Utila but he wasn't picking up passengers due to some 'paperwork issues'. Gossip I heard was that the owner of the ferry didn't like the competition and reported him. But hey that is gossip and who knows. What I do know is that neither of the catamaran captain's were willing to transport passengers during the first week of May. We took a charter plane to Utila and landed in about 15 minutes. I'd recommend it for the view alone! But I also enjoyed landing on the gravel/paved run way and being greeted by trucks with benches. We climbed into the back of one truck while another truck took our luggage. We drove into Utila Town and stopped at a bar for a beer while we waited for our luggage to arrive at the dock. Excellent!

This is long so I will continue in a 2nd part.
 
Part II - Utila.

We stayed at Utopia Dive Village for the second part. This was a prize from the show - Into the Drink!

The resort is small - 12 rooms I believe and tucked away from the 'hustle' of Utila Town. The only way to reach it is by boat. When we were there the surf was too rough to dock beside the resort, so instead we docked at Diamond Cays and drove a kilometre or two on the back of a truck through the woods/jungle. Having this flexibility was a big plus!

The resort feels like a tropical paradise and you're asked to watch water and electricity consumption. I can see that ruffling some feathers but for me it built more community. For me that is what made this place really special. You felt like you were part of the community instead of just doing the tourist role.

The food was all prepared by Chef John and took into account your food preferences. I was very happy with the food as it was a definite improvement over TB's offerings. The drinks on the other hand were pricier than I expected for the tropics and so I waited for my return to Roatan to overindulge. Of course the drinks were made and served in an open air cabana right on the beach. In fact at the end of shore dives you came out of the water right beside the bar! I also spent many mornings watching the sunrise from the hammock strung beside the bar.

Now onto the diving...the increase in diversity was a great change! The macro critters are also more in abundance. It seemed on every dive I found a nook with a creature that was new to me! My favourite find was the porcelain crab I found during a safety stop. During one of our night dives we found ourselves in the midst of a 'school' of string of pearls. It literally took my breath away as we floated there watching with our lights off. It was like floating in space with the galaxies of stars all around you.

Our boat staff was great and the inclusion of fresh home made muffins along with the fruit and water was a great bonus! Our DM again was a guide and it was great diving with someone who still has so much enthusiasm for the sport after diving so many tourists.

During the whole trip we saw one boil but no other signs of whale sharks. We did find another pod of dolphin though and it was fun to watch them playing with our boat. A lot of the divers had planned their entire trip around the whale sharks and it was hard to hide the disappointment for them. I was disappointed too, but it also taught me not to just focus on one expected result. We did see a few nurse sharks, lots of hawksbills, and I was able to swim parallel to an eagle ray for almost a minute. All together it was a great trip.

Originally we had planned to take Cap'n Vern back to Roatan, but as I mentioned he wasn't moving passengers. So we took the ferry. From Utila to La Cieba it was a smaller ferry and we were packed in before they sealed the doors. There was a faint smell of diesel, but I think that had more to do with some type of mechanical issue they were dealing with - lots of them hurriedly walking back and forth from the wheel to the back doors. Slightly unsettling. From La Cieba to Roatan it was a much larger ferry with actual seats as opposed to hard benches. We had planned on staying in the West End but before we left TB we asked if we could come back for the remaining 2 days and they said sure. They picked us up at the ferry terminal and took us back to the resort. We spent the last 2 days enjoying the beach hammocks and the all inclusive drinks. On Monday morning they drove us to the airport for our flight home.

All in all not a bad vacation. The Caribbean is not SE Asian when it comes to the flora and fauna, but they do know how to give you a vacation experience. And if you can get a cheap flight down you can have a very respectable vacation with no jet lag!
 

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Yeah, the catamaran actually showed up today in Roatan, but no passengers are allowed going between here and Utila. I heard the same story that the Ferry had him shut down. So anyone thinking of using this, might look for alternative plans until further notice.
 
Jack thanks for your post. We're thinking of going to Utopia the end of January. We like diversity in dining and wine with dinner. Do you think they could accommodate us? Also, We've heard that the sand flies are bad....what do you say? Thanks SCUBAKeely
 

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