TTL or not to TTL?

[RonFrank]

Get an IKE strobe, and use the eTTL. You can still shoot it manually if you choose. By the time you purchase a converter, cables, and a *less expensive* strobe I can not image you are going to save any money on your strobe package. The DS51 is under $500 for a complete setup with Sync cord, and arm. The DS51 strobe alone is just over $300, and there is nothing on the market worth purchasing under $250.

Does e/eTTL work. Absolutely. It's going to provide a better exposure than you can for most first shots. Is manual UW difficult. No, but if you go from shooting something at 2feet to shooting something at 6" you are going to have to make an adjustment, and unless you have shot manually a lot, your adjustment is likely not going to be correct the first time around. However the flash TTL adjustment is going to be good in most situations. You can also just change your aperture, and the flash adjusts. If you don't like the exposure, it's easy to just dial in exposure compensation on the back of the housing.

It's really a nice system even if i's not as good the manufactures i/eTTL implementations.

 

[PriusDrIVER]

Additional thanks to the additional feedback. I just was afraid the Ds51 wasn't going to be adequate, and its a big price difference to a DS125 which is where competing strobes with TTL converters come into the price field.

Thanks again, I am looking forward to using a DS51 and TTL to simply the submersion of my camera habit

 

[fisheyeview]

For some reason the YS-110 is not working with some of the cameras. Plus the recycle time for the 110 vs the DS125 will give you head aches. I have tried very hard, with little success, to out shoot the 125's. It is easy to do with the 110's.

 

[RonFrank]

I shoot with the DS125, and it's a great strobe. It's not as small as the Inon's, but it's compact enough. The battery life is excellent even if two batteries is generally best for four dive days unless you can get your battery on a charger during the lunch break.

The light output from the DS125 is quite pleasing with a larger bulb then some of the competition. It is a lot more expensive than the DS51. The DS51 is a nice strobe, but lacks the modeling light, and power of the DS125. One advantage of the DS51 is the use of AA batteries. Once can just use NIMH rechargeable, and that is another big difference in price. With the DS125, the battery charger runs $100 on top of the price which is a bit annoying as battery charger should not be that expensive IMO. One must use the DS125 battery with that strobe, so having the battery charger as an add on accessory is rather strange.

 

[PriusDrIVER]

Ron,

thanks, that was one big annoyance I had with the DS125 was not using 'standard' batteries. I already have a great charger and slew of nmh batteries for my flashes, dive lights and other gear...it would be great to leverage that existing investment. This was one reason I had looked at the YS-110, combined with price. For ~$100 more than a single DS-125 with charger I can get 2 YS-110 and use my existing battery/chargers.

I don't think I can justify $1800 for 2 strobes (DS125)...when my entire UW rig with DS51s and a lens port or 2 would only be about that price.

I do realize the lack of modeling/aiming light is a disadvantage on the DS51, but the price difference is significant. How limiting is the light output on the DS51 vs 125?

 

[bobf]

........One must use the DS125 battery with that strobe, so having the battery charger as an add on accessory is rather strange.

Many who own the DS 125 own two............therefore the second one they purchase they do so without the charger.............

I do realize the lack of modeling/aiming light is a disadvantage on the DS51, but the price difference is significant. How limiting is the light output on the DS51 vs 125?

I wouldn't necessarily characterize it as a "disadvantage". First of all it is easy and relatively inexpensive to add a mini c light to the arm if an aiming light is what you desire. Doing so will also extend the strobe arm length which isn't detrimental either.

If you need the light to help with focus, then I'd recommend a light specifically for that purpose so that you're not required to aim your strobe directly at your target.........therefore allowing you to paint with the edge of the beam pattern.

DS 51 angle of coverage is @ 70° without a diffuser.........more with according to published specs. DS 125 is 90° without diffuser.......@ 100° with. Angle of coverage according to Ikelite assures no more than a difference of one stop of light within the published beam angles.

If you're interested in doing a little craft project to better understand the difference between the two beams, buy some construction paper and an inexpensive protractor. With the help of a ruler or straight edge, first measure a line that is equal to the width of the strobe. Then draw 35° degree angle lines on either side of the line in opposite directions. The result will be a 70° beam. If each line were drawn 45° in opposite directions from the starting points, the result will be a 90° beam. After drawing the lines, cut them out and place the construction paper on a table with the strobe head lying flat at the base of the line.

The image below illustrates a 100° beam angle at the end of two 8" strobe arm sections.

hth,
b

 

[bladephotog]

If I can get up to Bay Area Divers this year I'll make sure I track you down. I see you're giving a workshop this year. I'd like to meet you as well since we're in the same neck of the woods.

Take care,

Andy

PriusDriver,

Glad some of the info. helped. Andy Morrison, making a living as a PRO photog for a paper added some good comments, too. He and I actually live pretty close (I'm in Ohio) but have yet met face to face Hopefully soon!

First, yes, you can use 2 smaller strobes to light even a wide area. The photo I posted was taken with the much touted Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye which is super wide, even on a cropped sensor dSLR like ours (and yours.) Beam angle of the little puppies (Ikelite DS51) is 70-80 degrees (I use the diffusers ALL the time, but that's just my choice) and what most people forget is you are simply trying to light an AREA of your photo you want to have color......Not the whole dang area your lens "sees" including water, bottom in the background, blah, blah, blah

As Andy stated from his experience, I too use the DS125 singly or in pairs for a few reasons. DS51 color temp is 5700K, while the DS125 at 4800 K producing more saturated colors, especailly flesh tones. The DS125 modeling light also helps lock AF faster in dim waters and obviously for night diving.

I think you'd have a mess combining two brands, and likely two different color temps. So if price is a convern buy 2 DS51 units and pair of dual cords (shooters with corded systems should ALWAYS have a spare cord) and shoot with them for awhile. Then upgrade to a pair of DS125 units when your budget allows......

Just makes sense to utilize the Ikelite TTL circuitry versus manually setting flash output in today's world.

David Haas
David Haas Underwater Photography

P.S. - PriusDriver - I've been thorugh a progression of digital SLR cameras from the Nikon D100, the original 6.3 MP Digital Rebel, Rebel XT (a Pair I used for a year each had 10,000 clicks on them, and were still going strong), a friend's "borrowed" 20D and currently the lowly little but super capable Rebel XTi. All using decent lenses and shooting as much as time and travel allows. A LOT.......I try and be honest and dispel any rumor that people with good shots create them everytime they pull the trigger. It's work......But FUN work