Underwater housing for a Sony RX100IV

[kat.hayes]

I want to use a Sony RX100IV primarily in a pool to take photos of my kid, though I will use it for snorkeling, and some scuba diving (not likely to ever be deeper than 50-ft). I would like for it to not have any possibility of leaking, to be able to access the main controls, and to make it as easy as possible to use. I have no idea which features I should be looking for, and what the differences are between this price range and the ones that are several hundred dollars more. I found the following housings and am hoping that somebody can provide some info/advice on what to get?

Fantasea Line FRX100 IV
Fantasea Line FRX100 IV Underwater Housing for Sony 1505 B&H

Ikelite Underwater Action Housing
Ikelite Underwater Action Housing for Sony Cyber-shot 6215.04

Thank you!

 

[diversteve]

I'm not a still camera enthusiast - I shoot video. But a lot of my friends are so I have a working knowledge. If I've got something wrong - anyone please feel free to correct it.

No possibility of leaking is impossible to guarantee since most times that's operator error. Just be thorough about maintaining and inspecting the o-ring each time you seal the camera in it and you shouldn't have any problems.

The Fantasea has a water alarm which might save the camera if you can surface quickly enough safely. In my experience (buddy has had two housing leak) that's not really possible.

The obvious difference between the housings is the Ikelite can not drive an external flash. And since it's a solid body housing, the camera's internal flash is useless also. If you read the fine print what they're suggesting instead is purchasing a constantly on light/video light to use your camera's excellent video option plus you can use the same light to illuminate still photos - just not for fast action capture like a flash will. Obviously the Fantasea being black has the same issue <- (Incorrect - see correction below) but they provide two fiber optic ports that can be used to drive an external flash if needed.

Both have all the controls needed for the pool work certainly and non-flash other u/w photography. 200' depth rating means they're both good to around that depth - certainly to rec limits of 132'. Either accepts optional filters and close-up lenses that screw onto the front of the port if needed.

At 50' depths in clear blue water, you might get very acceptable results with just a "red" filter that also attaches to the front port as needed. Otherwise everything below about 20' will be exceedingly blue and maybe not correctable in photo editing software during post-processing.

Ikelite also makes one of their conventional housings for your camera at $549. Being clear you can see leaks during the dive and it will drive an external strobe if wanted since it has a fiber optic port/connector. Ikelite Underwater Housing for Sony Cyber-shot RX100 IV 6116.14 Also being clear your camera's flash will provide some lighting support. My buddy has one for his Canon - it's a quality housing.

Above that price if you're looking at Nauticam or the Sea & Sea housing - the 2-3x base price generally means they're aluminum, often with interchangeable ports and in Nauticam's case you can check the seal pre-dive by pulling a vacuum inside the housing. Plus they add additional controls, a flash controller etc. on some models. All that costs more.

 

[kat.hayes]

Thanks for your excellent and thorough response. I guess I should have said very minimal chance of leaking instead of no possibility.

1. I've never had one of these before, what does it mean to maintain and inspect the o-ring?
2. You mentioned that your buddy had two housing leaks. Do you know what may have caused it? Did he not properly maintain the o-ring?
3. Do the housings use manufacturer specific filters and close-up lenses or can any that fit be used?

Thanks!!!!

 

[mattia_v]

Leaking is always a possibility. Maintaining the I ring means very light lubrication with appropriate silicone grease and ensuring it and the channel it's in are clean and dry when closing the housing. As for wet lens mount options, depends on the housing. M67 thread is increasingly common, but I prefer a bayonet system so I can quickly switch lenses under water.

 

[diversteve]

1, I do pretty much the same as Mattia - remove the o-ring annually - there's a tool for that or a credit card works - inspect it for wear, flat spots etc. then lightly lubricate it with a good silicon grease - wipe off the excess and carefully replace it. Too much grease is as bad as too little plus it attracts hairs etc. I probably don't do anything the rest of the year except I smear a little grease on it between trips and wipe it off using a clean cloth that doesn't drop fibers - i.e. no Kleenex or paper towels.

I'm a fan of minimizing the amount of times you open a housing during a trip also. For me that means bigger memory cards/better batteries and being a little economical in what I shoot to get a day or two's shooting out of one change. Now a lot of cameras have wireless transfer options so that's even better.

2. My buddy was careless about opening his housing to change memory cards out on deck or in other dusty/windy areas. Both leaks actually occurred on the same trip on the same boat - two different inexpensive housings sold by the mfr. for their specific model.

The ship provided an air-gun to blow the water off your housing at the camera table but more than once I saw someone use it on an o-ringed part of their housing - IMO not a good idea. I don't know if my buddy did or not. fwiw,

I do all my changes on a clean surface in my cabin even when there's camera tables provided.Or as sheltered as I can find on a dayboat.On shore dives I often shelter in the vehicle with the windows up - 1 little grain of sand ruins your whole day.

3. The Ikelite you linked to:

Optional, external, 67mm threaded wide-angle and macro accessory lenses from Ikelite, INON, Epoque, and other manufacturers can be attached directly to front of port

The Fantasea:

This 55mm thread port is compatible with a wide variety of optional accessory filters and lenses, including 67mm options when using the supplied EyeDaptor M55-F67 lens adapter.

Sources for filters/lenses/accessories besides B&H - I've personally dealt with the first two - you might price housings thru all of them also:

Backscatter
Reef Photo/Video
Optical Ocean Sales - I have no reservation about recommending them either. Jack Connick owns it.
Mozaik UW Cameras

 

[kat.hayes]

Between the two housings I originally posted, I’m leaning towards the Fantasea Line FRX100 IV Underwater Housing Fantasea Line FRX100 IV Underwater Housing for Sony 1505 B&H

for the ability to add an external flash.


1. Do the fiber optic ports on the Fantasea Line housing support the same level of quality external flashes as the more expensive housings? Am I limited to lower quality external flashes or video lights by getting this one?

2. What do you do when you want to shoot both video and still photos during a dive? Do the dual fiber optic ports allow you to attach both a video light and an external flash at the same time?

3. I would consider spending more for a clear housing if the built in flash really made difference, and I could save money by not buying an external flash. How much will the built in flash help when shooting through a clear housing? Are there certain types of photos that it may work better with (depths of 20 ft or less?)? I’m use to never using the built in flash when taking any photos with the camera, so I’m wondering what affect it will have on underwater photos? Again, I will be using the housing 80-90% in a pool.

Thanks again!

 

[diversteve]

Fiber Optic Ports are only used to trigger an external flash. If you want to use a light also, just put it on the same or another arm and turn it on - most have a switch and the better ones variable output that you can control underwater - usually a dial or series of button presses. Video lights are mostly just wide angle, reflection free dive lights for the most part.

Many camera trays have dual arm mount options so one can be a light and one a flash.

One thing I didn't pick up on about the Fantasea earlier is that it DOES allow use of your camera's internal flash - in fact they make it better.

A supplied flash diffuser softens the light of the camera's built-in flash, while also increasing the angle of coverage and reducing backscatter, glare, and hard shadows.

So you might see if those results are acceptable first.

You also want to invest in an inexpensive tray/arm kit to get an external flash off the plane of the lens if you buy one. Most arms are flexible so you can move it closer or position it as needed. If the the flash sits straight over the lens on the often provided shoe - you'll get backscatter - particles in the water that light up when it fires. Here's an extreme example of that - Underwater photography - backscatter and the description: Underwater photography - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

All a fiber optic port does is provide a trigger for your external flash. So they work equally well on $150 flash units or $750 flash units.So the Fantasea will trigger single or dual strobes if you have them. Many people have two to provide more uniform coverage at wider angles.

My only experience with a flash thru the housing was one of my buddy's - an older Canon point/shoot with a built-in flash. He didn't get enough light output out of it to be much use farther than 6' away and it also had a problem with creating a shadow line on every shot except close-ups since the light was blocked by the top 1/2" of the port - you could visibly see it in any shots with a flat background.

So he bought an external flash and used the internal to trigger it's fiber optic connection - they sell kits to block the visible light but allow the infrared through - you don't see it but the flash sensor does. Some cameras also can bypass the internal completely and still provide an external trigger - I think many are like that now. I'm not really up on flash systems since it's not my thing.

My other buddy with the Ikelite housing has either single or dual external strobes. It's fiber optic connector triggers them so there's no penetration thru the case for a cable - just one less thing to leak.

 

[kat.hayes]

For $400, the Fantasea sounds like it is going to be the one I purchase.

1. Any idea how the Fantasea allows the internal camera flash to work? Is it done through the two openings above the lens?

2. Are there any must have accessories/filters that you recommend getting along with it?

3. Is there a recommended type of silicon grease to get, or does each housing recommend a specific type of grease to use?

Thanks again.

 

[diversteve]

For $400, the Fantasea sounds like it is going to be the one I purchase.

1. Any idea how the Fantasea allows the internal camera flash to work? Is it done through the two openings above the lens?

No, those are the fiber optic ports. You remove the plate they're attached to to use the camera's internal flash.
This shows the window that's used for the camera flash when you do (disregard the AB):

In order to make use of the built in camera flash, remove the Fiber Optic Cable Plate from the housing. Insert your fingers beneath the adaptors installed inside the plate and push the plate upwards till it is removed from its slot. Make sure the fiber optic cable plate is secured to the
housing by the dedicated secure line in order to avoid losing it during the dive.

2. Are there any must have accessories/filters that you recommend getting along with it?
3. Is there a recommended type of silicon grease to get, or does each housing recommend a specific type of grease to use?

They seem to provide all you need to get started.

If you are shooting deeper than about 20' in daylight in the blue ocean without the flash add a red filter - Fantasea calls is a red-eye filter but what it does is restore some of the reds lost at depth. They also get $89+ for it so you might look for a cheaper one online. Fantasea Line Water Sports Photo Products & Accessories - Fantasea Eyes - Underwater Optics - RedEye Filters No need for one in the pool.

You aren't going to use much grease - my normal process is to touch a finger in it - smear it on my thumb then draw the o-ring thru it. I have dual seals plus a removable front port on a bigger housing than yours and a quarter-sized container lasted almost a decade till I lost it. Too much grease is not a good thing either - you just want to lightly coat the o-ring.

btw, all this and more is found here: http://www.fantasea.com/c.677043/manuals/1505_Manual.pdf