Universal wing to backplate fit?

[Flycaster]

Glen,

I'd recommend a DSS large.

With a DSS wing you don't need or want a Single Tank Adapter.

I can't comment on Stainless vs Kydex or wing capacity without knowing more about your application.

Most buoyant exposure suit
Least buoyant exposure suit
Cylinders used.

If you wish my advice regarding these matters please be as specific as possible. Telling me you plan to dive with Drysuit and high loft undies or swim trunk using every tank ever made doesn't help much.

Tobin

7 mm two piece suit
Steel 100 or steel80
With a single aluminum tank I have used close to 30 pounds of weight

 

[cool_hardware52]

7mm suit.
Single steel 100 or Steel 80

HP 100 or LP 80, both great.

HP 80 (aka cannon ball with valve ) can be a problem for all BP&W.

When the tank is shorter than the wing there is a great chance that the wing will fold under the bottom of the cylinder when you sit down. That allows the bottom of the tank to hammer on the wing bladder. Not something you want to do.

I'll assume HP 100.

I will also assume your 7mm suit is ~22 lbs positive. (I could be wrong, you can test your suit or provide details of your current config and I can estimate)

You need ballast, that makes the SS plate the better choice.

Any BC needs to meet two criteria; Be able to float your rig at the surface with a full cylinder if you ditch it, and be able to compensate for the maximum possible change in buoyancy of your exposure suit, which ever is great will dictate minimum wing capacity.

I've assumed 22 lbs for your 7mm suit.

Your rig would be about - 19 lbs, 7lbs for the plate and harness, 2 for your reg and about -10 for a full HP100.

That makes a Torus 26 a reasonable choice.

If your suit is +22 at the surface it will be ~+16 at 15 ft, i.e. your safety stop depth.

Your rig will provide about 11 lbs of ballast with an empty cylinder, leaving about 4-6 on a belt. No need for weight plates unless your suit is quite a bit more buoyant than I've assumed.

Recap:
Large SS Plate
Hogarthian Harness
Torus 26 Wing
(cambands and wedge blocks included)

Tobin

 

[tbone1004]

and people say you're grumpy don't see any of your competitors stepping up to provide that kind of service to anyone who asks for it

 

[cool_hardware52]

and people say you're grumpy don't see any of your competitors stepping up to provide that kind of service to anyone who asks for it

Bah, humbug. (One has to maintain their image )

Tobin

 

[Boaty McBoatface]

Been quite happy with my DSS.

And, it's grumpy purveyor.

 

[Flycaster]

HP 100 or LP 80, both great.

HP 80 (aka cannon ball with valve ) can be a problem for all BP&W.

When the tank is shorter than the wing there is a great chance that the wing will fold under the bottom of the cylinder when you sit down. That allows the bottom of the tank to hammer on the wing bladder. Not something you want to do.

I'll assume HP 100.

I will also assume your 7mm suit is ~22 lbs positive. (I could be wrong, you can test your suit or provide details of your current config and I can estimate)

You need ballast, that makes the SS plate the better choice.

Any BC needs to meet two criteria; Be able to float your rig at the surface with a full cylinder if you ditch it, and be able to compensate for the maximum possible change in buoyancy of your exposure suit, which ever is great will dictate minimum wing capacity.

I've assumed 22 lbs for your 7mm suit.

Your rig would be about - 19 lbs, 7lbs for the plate and harness, 2 for your reg and about -10 for a full HP100.

That makes a Torus 26 a reasonable choice.

If your suit is +22 at the surface it will be ~+16 at 15 ft, i.e. your safety stop depth.

Your rig will provide about 11 lbs of ballast with an empty cylinder, leaving about 4-6 on a belt. No need for weight plates unless your suit is quite a bit more buoyant than I've assumed.

Recap:
Large SS Plate
Hogarthian Harness
Torus 26 Wing
(cambands and wedge blocks included)

Tobin

If I were to take the farmer John out of the equation and just use my step through 7mm shorty when conditions warm in late Summmer and early Fall then maybe having your LCD 30 would be wise.
What do you think?

 

[cool_hardware52]

If I were to take the farmer John out of the equation and just use my step through 7mm shorty when conditions warm in late Summmer and early Fall then maybe having your LCD 30 would be wise.
What do you think?

Give me the *actual* buoyancy of:

The most buoyant suit you plan to use
&
The least buoyant suit you plan to use

and I'll be happy to offer an opinion.

There is a reason why I ask these questions.

Tobin

 

[Flycaster]

Give me the *actual* buoyancy of:

The most buoyant suit you plan to use
&
The least buoyant suit you plan to use

and I'll be happy to offer an opinion.

There is a reason why I ask these questions.

Tobin

Tobin,

We are finally there.

Steel HP 100 for my go to set-up.
I may at some point use a Steel HP 80 later down the road.

Most buoyant - Farmer John 15, Step through shorty 13, Total 28lbs.

Least buoyant - Shorty -Total 13lbs.

I have a neoprene weight belt which takes 1-1/4lbs To neutralize it but I think I may use ditchable weights to replace the need for it. Your suggestion on that please.

Thanks for the time you spent on this and my questions.

Glen

 

[Flycaster]

Give me the *actual* buoyancy of:

The most buoyant suit you plan to use
&
The least buoyant suit you plan to use

and I'll be happy to offer an opinion.

There is a reason why I ask these questions.

Tobin

I might add if it is helpful that these buoyancy measurements were done in fresh water.
I dive mostly in saltwater.

 

[tbone1004]

@Flycaster
HP100-100*.08=8lbs
28lbs of floaty+8lbs of gas=36lbs

To float the entire rig at the surface with a full tank, and all of the ballast on the rig, you need a 40lb wing.
If you move some of that to the belt, and don't dive terribly deep, you may be able to get away with a 35lb wing.

The HP80 poses problematic for the Torus 35 because the short tank puts the wing at higher risk for pinch flats so I would recommend avoiding that tank if you can.

The ballast of the farmer john is what is killing you and a huge reason that you don't see recommendations for them on this forum. If you need that for the warmth, you are far better off biting the bullet and going dry.

You're stuck between a Torus 35 and a LCD30/40. If you get weight plates with the large plate it gives you 15lbs there, plus another 2 for the reg and you have another another 8-10lbs of lead to put somewhere. 8lbs if you have a Worthington HP100, 10lbs if a PST or Faber. I think the Torus35 would be better from a trim perspective due to the 14lbs on the belt, and if you don't get the weight plates, you'll want to get to the Torus for trim purposes in my opinion. Tobin's may be different. Risk with the Torus as mentioned is with that HP80 that could cause a pinch flat.