Upgrading - Sony A7RV or Alternatives?

[MrTW]

Picking brains....

I have been shooting on a Panasonic Lumix LX10 in a Nauticam housing for the last 7 years shortly after it got released. Got about 300+ dives on my current setup and have been shooting mostly macro during that time.

I am a sure lifelong learner when it comes to UW photography but would consider to be experienced with regards to the overall framework (buoyancy, handling of camera/settings, shooting modes, composition, etc.).

Now, while the LX10 is a fun camera, I feel its time for an upgrade.

I am currently considering the Sony A7RV for the very fast majority of still photography and only some occasional video shooting on very rare circumstances. The plan is to start extending from macro to wide angle shooting over time.

Now, since this is a significant invest and I am not planning on changing setups for a several years after, I would like to pick brains to get feedback on a upgrade within the price range of the Sony A7RV in a Nauticam housing including suitable macro (priority) and WA lenses.

Any thoughts are highly appreciated!

 

[MrTW]

I finally took delivery of the Nauticam housing for use with my A7CR. I went this route due to smaller form factor ABOVE water and overall cost difference. The camera difference is $900 and Nauticam housing difference is $750 bringing total cost difference to $1650. I do think the size difference when underwater is immaterial, however. I will mostly be using the 8-15 Canon and 16-35 GM lenses. The weather here in Northern California is rough right now but plan on using soon. Happy to chat on results when possible. Good luck with your decision.

Would love to hear your thoughts and experience with the A7CR as there aren't any UW reviews out yet for the A7CR or A7CII.

An overall cheaper total (compared to the A7RV) and lighter travel setup is really interesting and speaks for the A7CR but since I intend to keep a camera for many years to come, I am (somewhat) ok to invest more upfront if it makes overall sense (cost vs travel size/weight vs future proof functionality).

 

[MrTW]

Reading through all the feedback here, I am starting to realize the added complexity and potential limitations coming from a compact.

The upgrade plan was to get a new camera / housing / lens (starting with the Sony 90mm) plus the necessary add-ons around that.

Now, I thought to be able to leverage my current Backscatter MF-2 plus snoot and an incoming Backscatter MW-4300 without having to toss these and adding a whole new set of much more powerful (and expensive) strobes to overcome some HSS limitations.

Using the LX10, I am currently exclusively shooting in M with the MF-2 set to M as well and adjusting the strobe output myself dependent on circumstance.

Would the Backscatter setup then be insufficient with either the A7CR or A7R5 for macro?

 

[Barmaglot]

MF-2 is perfectly fine for macro. MW-4300... I don't really see a use case for it. It's overkill for a focus light, but nowhere near powerful enough for wide-angle video. Maybe macro video if that's your thing.

 

[WS007]

Reading through all the feedback here, I am starting to realize the added complexity and potential limitations coming from a compact.

The upgrade plan was to get a new camera / housing / lens (starting with the Sony 90mm) plus the necessary add-ons around that.

Now, I thought to be able to leverage my current Backscatter MF-2 plus snoot and an incoming Backscatter MW-4300 without having to toss these and adding a whole new set of much more powerful (and expensive) strobes to overcome some HSS limitations.

Using the LX10, I am currently exclusively shooting in M with the MF-2 set to M as well and adjusting the strobe output myself dependent on circumstance.

Would the Backscatter setup then be insufficient with either the A7CR or A7R5 for macro?

Just from the light intensity, the MF-2 is enough for macro. For creative lighting, e.g. light gradient or remote strobe, you may want to acquire a second MF-2...

Wolfgang

 

[MrTW]

Thanks Barmaglot and WS007 for your feedback on the MW4300 / MF-2. Was able to cancel the order for the MW4300 and will see how to better spend money on a new setup.

 

[Franek]

The Sony A7RV camera in a Nauticam housing is a great toy.
This is my first set for taking photos of the University of Warsaw without much preparation (total amateur)
The photos were taken after a few tips, without stroboscopes, only with video lamps and a FE 16-35 F2.8 GM wide angle lens. I took the photos without thinking twice, only one was set to a constant ISO200 and the photos are 90% ok for me.

It has only 3 disadvantages: Price; Transport scale; It makes huge RAW files up to 130mb, JPG up to 30-35mb

You can deal with flaws if you want to

Regards

 

[RTee]

Last year I upgraded from a micro 4/3 (Olympus EPL-5) in a Nauticam housing to a Sony A7IV, but this time, I went with Aquatica for housing. Initial set- up was WA with an 8 inch dome to accommodate the Sony 16-35 F4 lens that I experimented with in Roatan. Since then, I acquired the 90mm lens for macro as well as the flat port and extension for the housing. Looking forward to putting it through its pace throughout the next six weeks. Using S& S YS-D1 strobes and Kraken video/focus light.

 

[sfiron]

I shoot A7 R3 in Sea and Sea housing. Sony 90 mm macro is the lens u want. Friends also use Ikelite housing at a much cheaper price point. Personally, I don’t see Nauticam as good value. Save money for good strobes. Smaller form factor of other camera bodies becomes nonfactor when you put it in th housing

I have the Ikelite DL200 with the Sony A1. Both acrylic domes have about 40% sharpness in the middle. Keep that in mind. There are other issues with the housing as well...

 

[Franek]

Mam Ikelite DL200 z Sony A1. Obie kopułki akrylowe mają w środku około 40% ostrości. Miej to w pamięci. Są jeszcze inne problemy związane z mieszkaniem...

Jak na tę klasę sprzętu tylko szklana kopułka i koniec problemów z ostrością, a A1 niestety słabo czuje się w plastikowej obudowie

 

[Franek]

For this class of equipment, only a glass dome and the end of sharpness problems, and unfortunately the A1 feels bad in a plastic casing