Use white slate to bounce light off strobe instead of using a 2nd strobe?

[DazedAndConfuzed]

Hi,

I've been using a single YS-01 strobe w/TTL to take pix for my P&S. For moderate distance subject, it is not too bad. But when I get to closeup subject, I usually have to have the strobe really close to the subject, either on top of it or to the very side. This of course, produces strong dark shadows. I was looking for a 2nd strobe to alleviate this issue, but manipulating one strobe while then lens is 1 inch from the subject at the same time trying to float still is hard enough, but to do it with 2 strobes and constantly fiddling with the intensity of the fill strobe will just make it harder. I was wondering if I can just get a white slate and put it at the opposing side of the strobe so as to bounce some of the light from the 1st strobe back to the subject. This will fill in some of the dark shadows but still produce a dark highlight/shadow look.

Anyone done that? Is it feasible? I know given the the strobe is on the left side, the slate has to be near the right side of the subject, thus requiring my hand to cross over to hold the slate. I could even have a 2nd strobe arm hold the slate for me..in which I could pretty much just put a strobe head on top of that 2nd arm.

 

[3D diver]

I've always used twin strobes so haven't tried your slate idea. I would think it would have to be kind of big and awkward unless you're shooting macro.

An opaque diffuser on your strobe might soften the shadows a little.

 

[Jeevz]

I would think it should work - just like using a reflecting in land photography. But I donk think it would be any easier than having another strobe (cheaper maybe) - but you are still going to have to manipulate the position of the slate. Also it does limit your lighting angles compared with if you used another strobe.

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

I am not necessarily trying to get the perfect lighting, just to fill the shadow areas, which could get pretty dark on macro shots where the strobe is shining pretty much from the side. I do use the diffuser, and sometimes when the subject is very close, I might pull the strobe as far back as I can to give it a less intense light, but with a side or top lighting on macro shots, one is bound to get strong shadows. Maybe playing around with aperture/shutter speed will give a better balance of natural/artifical light, but then the natural light will have a blue tint to it. When I use to shoot the P&S w/o a strobe or wet lens, I use to get better results in macro since the lighting comes from the front and the subject is lit much more evenly. I thought of ripping the velcro'd on mask that holds the fiber optic cable so I can use direct flash once in a while.

 

[3D diver]

Certainly worth a try for macro. Everything is closer & therefore smaller and more managable.

Alternatively, you might bounce the main flash off a white diffuser to spread the light source even more than the on-strobe diffuser can.

 

[BoltSnap]

Hi,

I've been using a single YS-01 strobe w/TTL to take pix for my P&S. For moderate distance subject, it is not too bad. But when I get to closeup subject, I usually have to have the strobe really close to the subject, either on top of it or to the very side. This of course, produces strong dark shadows. I was looking for a 2nd strobe to alleviate this issue, but manipulating one strobe while then lens is 1 inch from the subject at the same time trying to float still is hard enough, but to do it with 2 strobes and constantly fiddling with the intensity of the fill strobe will just make it harder. I was wondering if I can just get a white slate and put it at the opposing side of the strobe so as to bounce some of the light from the 1st strobe back to the subject. This will fill in some of the dark shadows but still produce a dark highlight/shadow look.

Anyone done that? Is it feasible? I know given the the strobe is on the left side, the slate has to be near the right side of the subject, thus requiring my hand to cross over to hold the slate. I could even have a 2nd strobe arm hold the slate for me..in which I could pretty much just put a strobe head on top of that 2nd arm.

You think that using a slate to do this will be easier than using two strobes??? I think not.

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

You think that using a slate to do this will be easier than using two strobes??? I think not.

With a white slate, I can just freehand it and aim it at an angle that I think is right and move it closer or farther away to adjust the amount of shadow fill. With the strobe, I might have to bend the arm, aim the strobe, adjust the strobe intensity knob (which might be out of sight since the strobe could be facing sideways).

 

[BoltSnap]

That isn't going to work in real life. Remember you need to make your camera adjustments with your right hand so you can do two things with one hand at the same time. You can't do any of the adjustments you can on the second strobe with this slate. A second strobe can offer you many more lighting options than what a slate would offer (assuming the slate is actually able to offer anything).

All of the issues you mention about what you'll have to do with the strobe are actually options and advantages of the second strobe not inconveniences as compared to a slate. Once you adjust the strobe, you get your hand back to adjust the camera and trigger the shutter.

 

[3D diver]

I agree with all the advantages of a second strobe, but...a slate or white piece of plastic is cheap & there's no harm in trying. Give it a shot and let us know how it goes.

You know you're not going to be happy till you do.

 

[Gilldiver]

In the Nikonos Film camera days one trick was to put a piece of white plexiglass onto the bottom framework of the close up framers used with the 35 and 20 mm lens. This was to bounce some light back up towards the object/critter in the framer and soften the shadows from a top mounted strobe.