Whale Shark Diving

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After striking out of whaleshark sighting in Utila, I made sure that my next trip wouldn't be a bust, so that led to Holbox. However, the greenish & cold water there was kind of a setback. I wanted to dive with them in warm blue water, not snorkeling in cold & murky water. Cendrawasih Bay met that criteria & glad I did. Later on @Ken Kurtis showed me his presentation of "Gentle Jaws... Diving with Whalesharks" which led me to go to Isla Mujeres.

So far, based on my limited experience posted earlier & reading of people posting their whalesharks sightings in the blue water, not in the greenish water like in Holbox, I come to a conclusion that if you want 99% guaranty to snorkel with whaleshark, just go to Isla Mujeres. If you prefer to dive with them with 99% guaranty, then go to Cendrawasih Bay. Why are the odds so high to see them in the those two places? Read on.

In Isla Mujeres, as @scuba_frog mentioned, their migration season is from May to be September, so, if you want to increase your odds of seeing them, go there during the peak season. That's why I went there in July. During that time, snappers spawn & release tons of their eggs at around sea bottom ledges, where the sea bottoms drop from about 100 feet deep to the abyss. Upwellings from the abyss to the ledges bring the those eggs to the sea surface. The whalesharks know that and migrate to that area to filter feed the eggs. The boat tour guide told me that each whaleshark consumes about 200-300 lbs/day and they could be hundreds of them during the peak seasons. I'm surprised how much eggs those snappers have to produce to survive the onslaught of the huge appetite of those whalesharks.

The pictures, below, courtesy of @Ken Kurtis. White specs in the blue are boats. You can see the whalesharks are as big as the boats.

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In Cendrawasih Bay, fisherman build a floating platform, called Bagan, out of 2 boats & bamboo lattice as shown below, for them to fish for tuna.

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They use anchovies as baits & put the life anchovies in a net underneath the Bagan. Whalesharks like to come & visit the Bagan to suck on the net for fish oils, pieces of scraps small critters that fall out of the net. The presence of whalesharks to Papuan fishermen bring good luck. They started feeding the whalesharks with some small dead fish. Pretty soon there were several "regular" whaleshark visitors on the Bagan that attracted liveaboard to rent the Bagan for a day of diving under the Bagan. Then you could be a lucky diver surrounded by whalesharks like this girl, below.

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To Dive with whalesharks on this side of the world there's really only one easily accessible spot - Gladden Spit in Southern Belize. The nearest town is Placencia - to call it a sleepy little pleasant town would not be an understatement.

Southwest not flies into Belize City from a few US origins - from there you fly Maya Island Air or Tropic Air to the Placencia area.

Trips go around the full moons in later spring/early summer - the sharks specifically show up for the Cubera Snapper spawn that only occurs then. Any other time and you won't see any. Belize Whale Shark Diving | Scuba & Accommodation | Splash Dive Center | Placencia Belize

Splash Dive has all the details on their website or some of the resorts in nearby Hopkins also go there. It's a fairly long boat ride and often snorkelers also get to see them as they surface in the area.

All of Mexico and Utila is snorkel only. We swam with about a dozen over a week in Utila - often did two regular dives first then went looking for them. End of March IIRC - their season is early spring or September.

I have heard of sightings at the Flower Gardens NMS in off Texas but they seem to be chance encounters. Fling Charters goes out there - I assume they survived the last hurricane. Fling Charters
 
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I'm particularly interested in Eastern Mexico. I've heard that Cancun, Isla Mujeres, Isla Contoy, Cozumel, and Holbox are all good spots to hit.

They are but only for snorkeling, diving around them is illegal. We did a trip to Isla Mujeres and it was great. Not diving was not really a problem as all the animals were on the surface anyway.
 
La Paz has whale sharks from October to March. Guaranteed sightings, small groups and lots of whale sharks.
It's not uncommon to see 20+ whale sharks on a 3 hr trip.
La Paz is just a 2 hour drive from Cabo San Lucas.
 
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We snorkelled with the Whale Sharks right in the main harbour in the city of La Paz, Baja. They were everywhere and there are regulations in place using local guides/boats and limiting numbers of people, etc. (in January). Ask at the B&B called Kootenay for recommendations of a good local company to use. Overall, while it was a bit touristy what do you expect having easy and cheap access right 'in town'. No matter how many others are dropping in the water to view the whale sharks, it was an experience of a life-time.
 

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