What Strobe To Use With A C5060 And Pt-020

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KWS:
thanks,

think i will probably wait for a while before i get a strobe. i think that someone has to come up with the cable adaptor for the bulkhead connection if i am to use the cable methods. the optical sync looks like all there is available to me without going with the oly flash. i did not consider this when i looked at the pt-020. my bag ....

another day another lesson learned....

regards

KWS

ReyeR had a very good response - I doubt any third party will make an adaptor which fits. The D180 is the best bet for you. It basically has a form of 'TTL' if thats what you desire as a beginner and also some manual controls. You could get one of these adaptors http://www.muenster.de/~matthias/blitz/indexe.htm

which will give you TTL if you are prepared to spend the time.
 
I think that you need the 220 not the 180 if you are going to change to Ikelite, but I may be missing something there.

I went with the 220 instead of the 180 for a variety of reasons - more powerful, more coverage, more manual controls. For me, the extra $30 was well worth it. I don't think manual is too much for a beginner to learn...and there are times when ttl just won't give you the best results. You just have to be willing to give it a go!

Mine is the 220s - without aiming light which I don't think works with the 5050/PT 015 anyway and I really haven't missed it as none of my earlier strobes had one. I couldn't get my Ike 50 with slave to work with this set-up though it worked just fine with my Canon A70/housing.

Not sure about the size difference between the 180 & 220, but the 220 sure seems small and light!
 
alcina:
I think that you need the 220 not the 180 if you are going to change to Ikelite, but I may be missing something there.

I went with the 220 instead of the 180 for a variety of reasons - more powerful, more coverage, more manual controls. For me, the extra $30 was well worth it. I don't think manual is too much for a beginner to learn...and there are times when ttl just won't give you the best results. You just have to be willing to give it a go!

Mine is the 220s - without aiming light which I don't think works with the 5050/PT 015 anyway and I really haven't missed it as none of my earlier strobes had one. I couldn't get my Ike 50 with slave to work with this set-up though it worked just fine with my Canon A70/housing.

Not sure about the size difference between the 180 & 220, but the 220 sure seems small and light!

They are the same size.
Are you able to use all 11 steps of the strobe when the C5050 is in manual mode or are you still limited to 6 like in the other preflash modes?
 
medic13:
ok got a question if we switch from OLY houseing with the IRON 180 can it be used with iklite houseing
Yes the D180 can be used with Ike housing as it is transparent like the Oly housing - you will need to find a way to mount the fibre optical cable though as I don't believe the Ike housing has a flash diffuser panel to mount it on.
 
lukeROB:
They are the same size.
Are you able to use all 11 steps of the strobe when the C5050 is in manual mode or are you still limited to 6 like in the other preflash modes?

I am using all of the controls...camera is in slave1
 
lukeROB:
They are the same size.
Are you able to use all 11 steps of the strobe when the C5050 is in manual mode or are you still limited to 6 like in the other preflash modes?
They are the same size but the Z220 is heavier in air. Heck they even have the same coverage.
Yes you will be able to use all 11 steps in M with the C5050 as you can use 'slave' flash (no preflash) to trigger the Z220.
 
ReyeR:
1. True, the PT-020 has a bulkhead to connect a sync cord (electrical) to. But, as of today, this can only be used to connect a housed Olympus FL-20 land flash. You cannot connect any existing strobe in the market to it with a sync cord yet. So, if you want to use a strobe with a sync cord with the PT-020 you will need to get the Olympus FL-20 flash and house it in a PFL-01.
Since this thread has come to the top it is time to update my comment:
Matthias makes a circuit that'll convert Olympus' TTL protocol and control a variety of strobes in TTL. Mike, another German, makes a sync cord that'll connect the PT-020 bulkhead (Olympus proprietary) to a Sea and Sea type strobe connector. With a bit of DIY you can get a very nice hard-wired TTL system with the C5060 and PT-020:

http://www.mike-dive.de/Projekte/OLYPT20.html
 
Sea & Sea was not kidding when they said that the PT-020 is "unstable" on their tray. I solved it with a piece of scrap plastic from a woodworking project and a couple of stainless screws and nuts (from HD's or Lowes's hardware area). I would post a photo of it but board is not letting me :icon5: . Anyhow, imagine a rectangular piece of plastic with a rectangular hole to mate with the protrusion on the bottom of the PT-020. To this, add two (or more) screws countersunk in the plastic that go through the bottom of the tray. Don't forget to wash the tray and the "shim" after trimming since the plastic slivers are small and stick to everything (o-rings? :11: ).

phys16:
What tray and handle do you have mounted on your housing?

I was looking at the DX Sea and Sea stay, do you think that will work with the pt-020 housing for the Oly 5060?

Thanks
Dave
 
Top...Image by CrateCookie (Copyright) posted at ScubaGallery
Bottom...Image by CrateCookie (Copyright) posted at ScubaGallery

CrateCookie:
Sea & Sea was not kidding when they said that the PT-020 is "unstable" on their tray...
 
What not try the simple Epoque tray

http://www.scubacam.com.sg/pages/arms.htm

Cheap and it accomodates most if not all Consummer housings. Depending on what arm you want to use you may need to drill a hole in the base but thats easy to do. The Epoque flex arm and in particular their ball joint arm is very good.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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