Wired sync cable question?

[vicp]

Is TTL via wired sync cable proprietary to housings and strobes from the same manufacturer?

Loking at Ikelite housings with bulkhead (wired) interfaces (like the new Panasonic LX5 housing), it is stated that only Ikelite strobes do TTL when wired. Strobes from other manufacturers can only be operated in manual mode when wired.

Is this true for all manufacturers?

If I get an S&S strobe, like the YS-110a, which can be connected by fiber-optic or wired cable, will it be direct (wired) TTL capable with only S&S cameras and housings, and only manual when wired to other housings, if at all? I am not talking about the fiber-optic dTTL and understand that when wired the camera does not need to fire its' own flash/strobe to activate an external one.

I am considering getting a strobe and am trying to decide between a YS-110a and a YS-01 (or similar). I would like to get the YS-01, based on size and price (only fiber-optic sync), with possibly a second YS-01 or YS-02 later. However, it has been recommended that I get the YS-110a as it is more "future-proof", being more powerful and having both wired and fiber-optic interfaces. While I currently have a P&S Panasonic ZS7 w/OEM housing, I will be getting another camera and housing in the next year or two (if not a dSLR, then a micro 4/3 like the GF-1) and am trying to figure out what are the options (benefits and limitations) of the S&S (or any other) wired sync system, or if the fiber-optic interface is sufficient.

Mainly, what are the bulkhead (wired) sync issues when using strobes and housings from different manufacturers (as factors in buying decisions) and how important is it to have wired sync?

Thanks

 

[bvanant]

In general, optical triggering will be able to use TTL from almost any camera to almost any strobe. In general, TTL won't be possible from a housing to a strobe without some type of TTL circuitry. For Ike it is built in. For everyone else you will need to buy a converter. S&S sells them, as does Ike for external use and HW used to sell them. That is why optical will eventually displace electrical sync.
Bill

 

[vicp]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I am coming to the same conclusion that optical triggering is the preferred mode for underwater.

What needs to happen is a design that triggers the external strobe without the camera trying putting out a lot of light. Perhaps a low intensity "triggering mode" to extend battery life and shorten the camera recycle time.

 

[cardog]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I am coming to the same conclusion that optical triggering is the preferred mode for underwater.

What needs to happen is a design that triggers the external strobe without the camera trying putting out a lot of light. Perhaps a low intensity "triggering mode" to extend battery life and shorten the camera recycle time.

You can already do that with a lot of cameras. Mine will go from 1/2 power down to 1/64th power. It seems like the sweet spot for firing my strobes consistently is 1/4 power.

 

[bvanant]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I am coming to the same conclusion that optical triggering is the preferred mode for underwater.

What needs to happen is a design that triggers the external strobe without the camera trying putting out a lot of light. Perhaps a low intensity "triggering mode" to extend battery life and shorten the camera recycle time.

Of course you can do that with most cameras but you LOSE the capability of doing TTl. No free lunch.
Bill

 

[vicp]

What needs to happen is a design that triggers the external strobe without the camera trying putting out a lot of light. Perhaps a low intensity "triggering mode" to extend battery life and shorten the camera recycle time.

You can already do that with a lot of cameras. Mine will go from 1/2 power down to 1/64th power. It seems like the sweet spot for firing my strobes consistently is 1/4 power.

I know that flash exposure compensation (FEC) is available on more sophisticated cameras, but my Panasonic ZS7 does not have it.

What I meant by "triggering mode" is that the flash information passed via wired sync cable be passed optically using a light intensity sufficient for communication and not the higher (battery consuming, slower recycling time) power required for a light fill.

I guess we are not there yet?

 

[bvanant]

I know that flash exposure compensation (FEC) is available on more sophisticated cameras, but my Panasonic ZS7 does not have it.

What I meant by "triggering mode" is that the flash information passed via wired sync cable be passed optically using a light intensity sufficient for communication and not the higher (battery consuming, slower recycling time) power required for a light fill.

I guess we are not there yet?

Not sure what you mean. On my camera in manual mode, I can set the flash power (Not FEC) to 1/128 making a very small flash but enough to trigger the strobe in manual mode. Can shoot as fast as the strobe recycles without draining the camera battery.
Bill

 

[vicp]

Hi Bill,

I meant that TTL information gets passed optically instead of electrically, like in fiber-optic computer data links.

 

[bvanant]

Hi Bill,

I meant that TTL information gets passed optically instead of electrically, like in fiber-optic computer data links.

To do that you have to set the camera in TTL mode and in the dark the camera will send out a full pulse to the FO cable which will tell the strobe to send out a full pulse. Running the camera and strobe in TTL will take a lot more battery power than running the camera only at low power and the strobe in manual. No free lunch.
Bill

 

[slowhands]

Is TTL via wired sync cable proprietary to housings and strobes from the same manufacturer?

Loking at Ikelite housings with bulkhead (wired) interfaces (like the new Panasonic LX5 housing), it is stated that only Ikelite strobes do TTL when wired. Strobes from other manufacturers can only be operated in manual mode when wired.

Is this true for all manufacturers?

If I get an S&S strobe, like the YS-110a, which can be connected by fiber-optic or wired cable, will it be direct (wired) TTL capable with only S&S cameras and housings, and only manual when wired to other housings, if at all? I am not talking about the fiber-optic dTTL and understand that when wired the camera does not need to fire its' own flash/strobe to activate an external one.

I am considering getting a strobe and am trying to decide between a YS-110a and a YS-01 (or similar). I would like to get the YS-01, based on size and price (only fiber-optic sync), with possibly a second YS-01 or YS-02 later. However, it has been recommended that I get the YS-110a as it is more "future-proof", being more powerful and having both wired and fiber-optic interfaces. While I currently have a P&S Panasonic ZS7 w/OEM housing, I will be getting another camera and housing in the next year or two (if not a dSLR, then a micro 4/3 like the GF-1) and am trying to figure out what are the options (benefits and limitations) of the S&S (or any other) wired sync system, or if the fiber-optic interface is sufficient.

Mainly, what are the bulkhead (wired) sync issues when using strobes and housings from different manufacturers (as factors in buying decisions) and how important is it to have wired sync?

Thanks

Benefits of wired versus fiber connection to strobes? It's a long complicated story. The simple answer is most people will find a fiber connection easier to install and use. Almost all low to mid priced cameras will support a fiber connection, but not so a wired connection. Fiber probably makes the most sense for most users.

It's true that Ikelite will not support TTL operation of non-Ikelite strobes using a wired connection. Non-Ikelite strobes do not have the power line for the Ikelite TTL converter, and Ikelite won't supply a cable to connect all 5 wires from their bulkhead to a non-Ikelite strobe. However, there is nothing to stop you from gluing a fiber cable on the housing in front of your camera's strobe and controlling your non-Ikelite strobe that way.

Regarding Ikelite strobes, they are very good and have excellent support. So if you buy the Ikelite LX5 housing and Ikelite strobes, you'll have a good system. It's just that the Ikelite strobes probably will not be usable on a different brand of housing. You're kind of locked in to Ikelite housings, unless you sell the strobes and get different ones. If Ikelite makes a housing for your future camera, great, but if not, too bad.

Because strobes tend to have longer usable lifetimes than cameras due to the rapid progress in camera design, you should think about buying a strobe that will last several generations. It's a safe bet that a fiber controlled strobe will be compatible with most future cameras. There is nothing wrong with having a strobe that supports both hardwired and fiber connections -- but fiber only is probably enough for most cameras.

To answer your other question about Sea & Sea strobes being compatible hardwired to other brands of housing, it's complicated. Generally they are compatible except for Ikelite and Subal housings, which are proprietary. Most other housings have a more or less standard Nikonos bulkhead (assuming there is a TTL converter in the housing).

But there are exceptions. Cameras with very short preflash intervals or with other weird timing issues may not work with every Sea&Sea Flash. For example, the preflash interval on my Olympus E620 is 9ms, but the S&S 110a has a 12ms minimum preflash interval, so it's probably not compatible. I got the YS-250 instead, with a preflash interval of 3ms and it works well.

So, "in general" most current Sea & Sea strobes seem to be compatible with a broad range of housings/cameras using wired cables. You can check to see if your camera is compatible with a particular flash on the Heinrichs Weikamp site:
HW