Yet ANOTHER light recommedation thread...

[kelemvor]

That's the only brand name one that I personally own and uses the insert. Many other brands do, I just don't own them. I own some of the bx-1's a bunch of chinese ebay lights, a DRIS 1000 (uses 3x C batteries), and a hog morph 1000 (canister light with no user access to the batteries).
Tovatec is a brand you can buy in many dive shops or online that uses the 3AAA inserts. Several shops in Pinellas stock Tovatec. For example this one: Tovatec Fusion 530 Rechargeable Light
However, I don't own it so don't take that as a recommendation. Others will have to chime in to provide you with other recommendations.

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

I’m not aware of an insert for that light that allows disposable batteries.

We off a similar and smaller light that does use disposable batteries, but the brightness is reduced so we recommend the rechargeable option.

As a practical matter, if you are using the light for occasionally peaking under ledges when hunting, a battery will last multiple days. Having a single spare battery might give you the flexibility to do a multi day trip offshore with confidence.

The 18650 are becoming a commodity with all the vaping devices - or so I have been told


Also the smaller light can be bought with a gun mount which is great for hunting under ledges which is common in the Gulf of Mexico
Mini 630 Lumen Dive Light | MAKO Spearguns

 

[kelemvor]

I’m not aware of an insert for that light that allows disposable batteries.

Will the driver operate on 4.5v input rather than 3.6v that lithium cells normally provide? If so, you could probably use one of these Amazon.com: Plastic 3xAAA Battery Adapter Tube 3pcs For 18650 Flashlight: Sports & Outdoors . Maybe something you could think about including in future lights or offering as an option.

 

[Brian G]

Lighting is not as simple as I wish it was. The electrical part isn't too bad though. In order for a light to be "bright", you need an LED that is putting out a lot of lumens, and an optic that places the lumens where you want (a narrow beam in this case). If you start with the LED, many lights are using Cree's XM-L or XP-L LEDs. These LEDs max out at 10 watts and about 1000 lumens. Most optics waste a bunch of those lumens, so don't get too caught up in the absolute lumen numbers. 10 watts is the key number here. To get 10 watts out of 3 AAA cells (4.5 volts), you need to draw 10/4.5 amps, or about 2.2 amps. AAA alkaline cells are not rated for this. I can find numbers for Duracells for 1 watt each (3 watts for our 3-cell setup), where they are rated for about 20 minutes. Alkaline cells have high internal resistance, so while they may last a long time at low current, they heat up and get less effective at high current. Rechargeable Lithium cells like 18650s are made for this though. An average cell is rated for 7 amps discharge and other cells will do over 20 amps. To get 10 watts out a single 18650 (3.6 volts), you need 10/3.6 amps, or about 2.8 amps. A standard 3200mAh 18650 cell will put out 2.8 amps for about 65 minutes.

Mid-term summary - 3xAAA will struggle to do 3 watts for 20 minutes, 1x18650 will easily do 10 watts for 65 minutes.

The AA battery is a better option. The Duracell AA coppertop is rated at 1 watt for about 80 minutes. It's still not rated for anything over 1 amp draw though.
The C battery gets closer. The Duracell C coppertop is rated for 2 amps for about 50 minutes, so I extrapolate 2.2 amps for about 45 minutes.
So 3xC cells will do 10 watts for about 45 minutes, 20 minutes less than a single 18650.

Now for the part that annoys me. You can't just buy 18650 cells from Amazon and know that you are getting good stuff. Buy from liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com, or illumn.com. There are other good retailers if you want to search through budgetlightforum.com, but these 3 are my go-to sites. I get protected cells so that I don't have to worry about killing batteries. Others get unprotected cells so that the light works as long as possible without going dark.

So if you really want to stick with alkalines, use 3xC batteries for a bright light, or 3xAA batteries for a dimmer light. If you want a bright light in a small package, then 1x18650s are the way to go.

 

[gulfwiskey]

Lighting is not as simple as I wish it was. The electrical part isn't too bad though. In order for a light to be "bright", you need an LED that is putting out a lot of lumens, and an optic that places the lumens where you want (a narrow beam in this case). If you start with the LED, many lights are using Cree's XM-L or XP-L LEDs. These LEDs max out at 10 watts and about 1000 lumens. Most optics waste a bunch of those lumens, so don't get too caught up in the absolute lumen numbers. 10 watts is the key number here. To get 10 watts out of 3 AAA cells (4.5 volts), you need to draw 10/4.5 amps, or about 2.2 amps. AAA alkaline cells are not rated for this. I can find numbers for Duracells for 1 watt each (3 watts for our 3-cell setup), where they are rated for about 20 minutes. Alkaline cells have high internal resistance, so while they may last a long time at low current, they heat up and get less effective at high current. Rechargeable Lithium cells like 18650s are made for this though. An average cell is rated for 7 amps discharge and other cells will do over 20 amps. To get 10 watts out a single 18650 (3.6 volts), you need 10/3.6 amps, or about 2.8 amps. A standard 3200mAh 18650 cell will put out 2.8 amps for about 65 minutes.

Mid-term summary - 3xAAA will struggle to do 3 watts for 20 minutes, 1x18650 will easily do 10 watts for 65 minutes.

The AA battery is a better option. The Duracell AA coppertop is rated at 1 watt for about 80 minutes. It's still not rated for anything over 1 amp draw though.
The C battery gets closer. The Duracell C coppertop is rated for 2 amps for about 50 minutes, so I extrapolate 2.2 amps for about 45 minutes.
So 3xC cells will do 10 watts for about 45 minutes, 20 minutes less than a single 18650.

Now for the part that annoys me. You can't just buy 18650 cells from Amazon and know that you are getting good stuff. Buy from liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com, or illumn.com. There are other good retailers if you want to search through budgetlightforum.com, but these 3 are my go-to sites. I get protected cells so that I don't have to worry about killing batteries. Others get unprotected cells so that the light works as long as possible without going dark.

So if you really want to stick with alkalines, use 3xC batteries for a bright light, or 3xAA batteries for a dimmer light. If you want a bright light in a small package, then 1x18650s are the way to go.

So i am looking for a unicorn? Ha ha ha!!!

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

Lighting is not as simple as I wish it was. The electrical part isn't too bad though. In order for a light to be "bright", you need an LED that is putting out a lot of lumens, and an optic that places the lumens where you want (a narrow beam in this case). If you start with the LED, many lights are using Cree's XM-L or XP-L LEDs. These LEDs max out at 10 watts and about 1000 lumens. Most optics waste a bunch of those lumens, so don't get too caught up in the absolute lumen numbers. 10 watts is the key number here. To get 10 watts out of 3 AAA cells (4.5 volts), you need to draw 10/4.5 amps, or about 2.2 amps. AAA alkaline cells are not rated for this. I can find numbers for Duracells for 1 watt each (3 watts for our 3-cell setup), where they are rated for about 20 minutes. Alkaline cells have high internal resistance, so while they may last a long time at low current, they heat up and get less effective at high current. Rechargeable Lithium cells like 18650s are made for this though. An average cell is rated for 7 amps discharge and other cells will do over 20 amps. To get 10 watts out a single 18650 (3.6 volts), you need 10/3.6 amps, or about 2.8 amps. A standard 3200mAh 18650 cell will put out 2.8 amps for about 65 minutes.

Mid-term summary - 3xAAA will struggle to do 3 watts for 20 minutes, 1x18650 will easily do 10 watts for 65 minutes.

The AA battery is a better option. The Duracell AA coppertop is rated at 1 watt for about 80 minutes. It's still not rated for anything over 1 amp draw though.
The C battery gets closer. The Duracell C coppertop is rated for 2 amps for about 50 minutes, so I extrapolate 2.2 amps for about 45 minutes.
So 3xC cells will do 10 watts for about 45 minutes, 20 minutes less than a single 18650.

Now for the part that annoys me. You can't just buy 18650 cells from Amazon and know that you are getting good stuff. Buy from liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com, or illumn.com. There are other good retailers if you want to search through budgetlightforum.com, but these 3 are my go-to sites. I get protected cells so that I don't have to worry about killing batteries. Others get unprotected cells so that the light works as long as possible without going dark.

So if you really want to stick with alkalines, use 3xC batteries for a bright light, or 3xAA batteries for a dimmer light. If you want a bright light in a small package, then 1x18650s are the way to go.

Wow thanks for taking the time to explain that. A lot was a little over my head but I guess the take away is buy some spare 18650 batteries if you can’t charge between (long) periods of use.

Dano

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Lighting is not as simple as I wish it was. The electrical part isn't too bad though. In order for a light to be "bright", you need an LED that is putting out a lot of lumens, and an optic that places the lumens where you want (a narrow beam in this case). If you start with the LED, many lights are using Cree's XM-L or XP-L LEDs. These LEDs max out at 10 watts and about 1000 lumens. Most optics waste a bunch of those lumens, so don't get too caught up in the absolute lumen numbers. 10 watts is the key number here. To get 10 watts out of 3 AAA cells (4.5 volts), you need to draw 10/4.5 amps, or about 2.2 amps. AAA alkaline cells are not rated for this. I can find numbers for Duracells for 1 watt each (3 watts for our 3-cell setup), where they are rated for about 20 minutes. Alkaline cells have high internal resistance, so while they may last a long time at low current, they heat up and get less effective at high current. Rechargeable Lithium cells like 18650s are made for this though. An average cell is rated for 7 amps discharge and other cells will do over 20 amps. To get 10 watts out a single 18650 (3.6 volts), you need 10/3.6 amps, or about 2.8 amps. A standard 3200mAh 18650 cell will put out 2.8 amps for about 65 minutes.

Mid-term summary - 3xAAA will struggle to do 3 watts for 20 minutes, 1x18650 will easily do 10 watts for 65 minutes.

The AA battery is a better option. The Duracell AA coppertop is rated at 1 watt for about 80 minutes. It's still not rated for anything over 1 amp draw though.
The C battery gets closer. The Duracell C coppertop is rated for 2 amps for about 50 minutes, so I extrapolate 2.2 amps for about 45 minutes.
So 3xC cells will do 10 watts for about 45 minutes, 20 minutes less than a single 18650.

Now for the part that annoys me. You can't just buy 18650 cells from Amazon and know that you are getting good stuff. Buy from liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com, or illumn.com. There are other good retailers if you want to search through budgetlightforum.com, but these 3 are my go-to sites. I get protected cells so that I don't have to worry about killing batteries. Others get unprotected cells so that the light works as long as possible without going dark.

So if you really want to stick with alkalines, use 3xC batteries for a bright light, or 3xAA batteries for a dimmer light. If you want a bright light in a small package, then 1x18650s are the way to go.

I have had bad luck with Duracells in dive lights. They tend to off gas when stored and start to leak rapidly. I've had more than one light head shoot across the room as I unscrewed it. Learned to not store sealed lights closed with duracells. Ray-o-vac and Energizer? No problems.

 

[RyanT]

I have had bad luck with Duracells in dive lights. They tend to off gas when stored and start to leak rapidly. I've had more than one light head shoot across the room as I unscrewed it. Learned to not store sealed lights closed with duracells. Ray-o-vac and Energizer? No problems.

You are the second person I've heard this from. No Duracells for me!

 

[Landau]

I'm quite happy with this: League I use it for peering into holes and as a backup for my main light, a Sola 800.

 

[Johnoly]

...... if you can’t charge between (long) periods of use.

Dano,,,I have your M-680L light for the same reason the original poster said. I never have to worry about recharging because it's stays in my drybag for 6 months until I need it on the boat (even though I dive almost every week). I have a bright pencil light on the tip of my gun that is perfect for under ledges without spooking fish. But on the rare times we are diving in 10ft diameter huge boulders, I need the 680.

It's a great brite light with a push button, battery indicator, and best of all super cheap size 123 disposable batteries. I never leave the batts in the light and carry 3 sets cause they are tiny and take up no room. For those of us that bring a backup light and 'need it to work' when out on a day boat. The M-680L is{was} a workhorse with cheap size 123 batts for a drybag backup light.