Yoke to DIN Conversion

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BVickery

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I have a question. As I get further along my diving career I have been thinking of switching over to DIN. I was told by my LDS that there is a basic conversion out that will run about $100 or so and even said it is easy to do (if I do it, I'll just have it done by them, why risk it). The only thing I am concerned most about is it an actual Atomic Aquatics product? I'd hate to get it and find out it is not as advertised etc.
 
My LDS told me the same-same for an Atomic B2 set-up. They had one in the shop that I wanted but it was in a Yoke Configuration and I wanted DIN; he said he had the conversion in stock and would convert the B2 Yoke to a B2 DIN. I have not seen any technical drawings for this or actually seen it performed, but it sounds reasonable enough.

What I have done is I bought two ScubaPro Mk25s/S600s, one in Yoke and One in DIN (second DIN MK 25 for doubles) and use the long/short hose configuration for my 2nd stages and just use the DIN or Yoke 1st stage as needed. This does involve swapping out 1st stages but I do not mind. I recently purchased an Atomic B2 1st/2nd stage rig in Yoke; I plan to buy a second one in DIN for the same purpose. I will leave one regulator configuration in Yoke and the other one DIN, but carry the non-utilized 1st stages as spares. I know that there are Yoke-to-DIN converters, but I am not wild about adding an additional peice of hardware between my tank valve and 1st stages. When I go douple I have already purchased two MKs 25 in DINs so no issure there either. I want to have two complete sets of good regulators on-hand that I can convert to either Yoke or DIN. I also have my first Sherwood regs that I will deligate to a third spares for recreational OW diving only.
 
I think you'll have fewer problems than I have but I would recommend you get the first stage DIN-yoke converter if it isn't already included. I keep mine in the pocket of my BCD at all times so I can use K-valve tanks on the local boats.

In CA I dove DIN almost exclusively and had no issues but here in Hawaii DIN is a rarity and at times I've been unable to get my DIN tanks filled due to the shop not having a whip converter. So for maximum flexibility I would recommend DIN tanks with pro valves (removable inserts making them yoke connectable).
 
I just got a yoke first stage for recreational trips and use DIN for cave or diving at home.
 
My LDS told me the same-same for an Atomic B2 set-up. They had one in the shop that I wanted but it was in a Yoke Configuration and I wanted DIN; he said he had the conversion in stock and would convert the B2 Yoke to a B2 DIN. I have not seen any technical drawings for this or actually seen it performed, but it sounds reasonable enough.

What I have done is I bought two ScubaPro Mk25s/S600s, one in Yoke and One in DIN (second DIN MK 25 for doubles) and use the long/short hose configuration for my 2nd stages and just use the DIN or Yoke 1st stage as needed. This does involve swapping out 1st stages but I do not mind. I recently purchased an Atomic B2 1st/2nd stage rig in Yoke; I plan to buy a second one in DIN for the same purpose. I will leave one regulator configuration in Yoke and the other one DIN, but carry the non-utilized 1st stages as spares. I know that there are Yoke-to-DIN converters, but I am not wild about adding an additional peice of hardware between my tank valve and 1st stages. When I go douple I have already purchased two MKs 25 in DINs so no issure there either. I want to have two complete sets of good regulators on-hand that I can convert to either Yoke or DIN. I also have my first Sherwood regs that I will deligate to a third spares for recreational OW diving only.

From the looks of the piece, it's not an extra piece of hardware but rather you replace the Yoke valve with a DIN one. If I have to get a new 1st stage, I'll just keep an eye on flea bay and go from there.

---------- Post added May 29th, 2013 at 02:12 PM ----------

I just got a yoke first stage for recreational trips and use DIN for cave or diving at home.

My ultimate goal is to get my own steel tanks (I'm rather large fellow and would love to get some 98/100 cf tanks since a lot of the people I dive with are much smaller than me and I will only be able to reduce my SAC so much before it's not a matter of comfort/skill but rather simple physiology. I know I will not be able to match up fully to the person, but coming close is always nice, and well, who really doesn't mind longer bottom times?
 
Swapping between the yoke assembly and the DIN assembly is relatively straight forward. However, removing the yoke assembly should really be done with a thin walled 1" socket (1" Yoke Nut Socket). The flats on yoke "nut" are not very thick. More than one person has tried it with a good adjustable wrench, had it slip, and damage the brass.

Putting the DIN assembly on just requires a hex key wrench.

I have seen the DIN assembles on fleabay from time to time for $50 or so. More often you can find the yoke assembles for less.

Also if you remove the yoke assembly you can use the yoke and knob and combine it with a yoke nut and DIN adapter parts to make a complete DIN-to-yoke converter. Which will cost less buying the complete DIN-to-yoke converter
 
Silly, thanks so much for this. I may just grab the special yoke nut for doing it myself.
 
The other item I can suggest on this endeavor is if you do not already have an Atomic 2nd stage for your back up is to buy a complete second regulator that is DIN. Cost wise it is a bit more but then you have second first stage which is can be nice to have along for extended trips.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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