yoke to din conversion

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Corbach

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newb question.

i there any steps or guidelines to follow to convert a yoke into a din first stage?

or only need to swap the parts?
 
newb question.

i there any steps or guidelines to follow to convert a yoke into a din first stage?

or only need to swap the parts?

I'm not sure if this is true for all regs, but the ones I'm most familiar with are a very simple conversion. There are 3-5 parts that need swapping over, but they're pretty minor and simple.
 
After years away from diving I just bought a new regulator (SP MK25 G260). I bought the DIN version thinking it more adaptable as I can either use it in DIN configuration or use a simple yoke adapter for yoke-only valves. Was this a reasonable approach?
 
newb question.

i there any steps or guidelines to follow to convert a yoke into a din first stage?

or only need to swap the parts?

You will need a flat socket. You can make your own out of a cheap Harbor Freight socket or you will need to buy / borrow one. Other than that it is easy.
 
for most of diving centers (LDSs) is enough to use
best-divers-din-yoke-adaptor-6-mm-jpg.453244.jpg

It suitable for most of 200 bar valves.

other ways (without rebuilding your regulator) is there:
Which area is DIN valve popular at?
In case of customers Yoke regulator we just use Ввёртыш :) ("In-screwer") - that one:
best-divers-din-yoke-adaptor-6-mm-jpg.453244.jpg

Yes, for usage of that adaptor you have to have only DIN 200 valve.

DIN300 unsupportable and you have to use that one:
adaptateur-din-etrier-jpg.453245.jpg


Most universal way - when you have DIN regulator and such adaptor:
cc6909e6067f77bcd48b1b42141cb84b-jpg.453246.jpg

Just one disadvantage: quite heavy
 
All the ones I've converted were a very simple parts swap. Removing the yoke retaining nut was the most difficult. *Tip* On some you can just use a big adjustable wrench from the side.
 
pay attention to the torque specification when installing the DIN parts. If it comes loose, then'll you can get leakage around it and the little o-ring inside will extrude. This is particularly likely if you are sloppy removing the first stage from the tank valve (i.e., you turn the first stage rather than the hand wheel to get more leverage).

It isn't hard, just do it right. It's more than just snugging it up.
 
After years away from diving I just bought a new regulator (SP MK25 G260). I bought the DIN version thinking it more adaptable as I can either use it in DIN configuration or use a simple yoke adapter for yoke-only valves. Was this a reasonable approach?
Kind of a thread hijack... but not an unrelated one. I have found the yoke adapter to be workable but kludgy. If I was exclusively using aluminum tanks I would definitely stick with a yoke first stage. Steel tanks can be used with a yoke via the use of a simple adapter that fits into the din fitting, though the tanks can only be filled to 3000 psi with the adapter. Ultimately it depends on the diving you actually do and the tanks you actually use. Your approach is reasonable, but I doubt you will like the din to yoke adapter any more than I did. If you normally dive steel, then great. If you normally dive aluminum, you will probably get sick of the adapter. Keep in mind that you can buy din fittings for your aluminum tanks, though, which is what I did for mine.
 
Second on the torque specs. On mine you have to torque the fitting to the first at 230in/lbs and the din screw part goes on at a much lower pressure. If you are not aware the fitting is actually 2 parts you won't get it on properly. Other than that it is not hard. Just know what your particular fitting needs.
 
After years away from diving I just bought a new regulator (SP MK25 G260). I bought the DIN version thinking it more adaptable as I can either use it in DIN configuration or use a simple yoke adapter for yoke-only valves. Was this a reasonable approach?

It's what I do, works great.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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