Yucatan Trip advice

[aphauf]

Hey everybody-we are going back down to the Yucatan in September, doing Coz for a few days, Isla Mujeres for a few, and trying to make about two days on the mainland. We want to see Tulum and Chichen Itza, and we are trying to figure out where to stay on the mainland that would be the most hassle free. We will be flying in to Cancun to do the mainland stuff first, then heading to Isla, and finishing in Coz where we will be flying out.
Can anyone suggest a practical plan for us to tackle the mainland part of the trip? Any suggestions for places to stay, visit, or (of course) eat would be great!

 

[Caver95]

I would rent a car, We just did the all inclusive thing it was nice. We went with a group to Tulum, it was cool. But the next time I would rent a car and go. its very easy to find there are signs everywhere. Just watchout when you turn left, you have to pull off to the right side of the road, wait for a clear shot, and SHOOT!! across the road to the left. The food at Tulum is ungodly expensive. We dove with scuba libera out our hotel they were great. I would like to have hit Coba while we where there, but I guess thats for the nexts trip. Have Fun.

 

[driftwood]

Hey everybody-we are going back down to the Yucatan in September, doing Coz for a few days, Isla Mujeres for a few, and trying to make about two days on the mainland. We want to see Tulum and Chichen Itza, and we are trying to figure out where to stay on the mainland that would be the most hassle free. We will be flying in to Cancun to do the mainland stuff first, then heading to Isla, and finishing in Coz where we will be flying out.
Can anyone suggest a practical plan for us to tackle the mainland part of the trip? Any suggestions for places to stay, visit, or (of course) eat would be great!

Here is what I would do, stay at http://www.mesondelmarques.com your first night, very good restaurant btw. Spend the rest of your day by hiring a taxi, through the hotel, to tour the town. Hit CI EARLY in the morning before it gets too hot and crowded. In the afternoon, if you are dead set on seeing Tulum, head south toward Coba. Personally, I would go to Ek Balam instead of Tulum.

Couple of reasons, first EB has much more impressive ruins that are literally rewriting the books on Mayan art. Been to CI, Tulum, Coba and EB. Ek Balam is the only one worth a second, or third, visit. When you see what they found there, you will almost question whether CI was worth the time. The siting of Tulum is very impressive and reflects the shift of the Mayans from trading along roads in the interior to coastal trading, but what the Mayan's built there is a shadow of their other cities. Also Tulum is the most restricted of all the Mayan sites and you are basically limited to the paths. Tulum is popular due to the Carib/ruins and easy access from Cancun and Playa along 307, not for what the Mayan's built there.

Second, EB is a short detour from the way back to IM from CI. Doing CI and EB in a day is easy and painless. To see Tulum you will be adding hours of drive time on your way back to IM. From CI to Cancun via Tulum will take you over 4 hours, the side trip to EB runs 30 extra minutes. Also the road from CI to Tulum is paved, but narrow and the topes are a real unexpected bitch at times. In the US, the speed limit on the road would be 25mph.

There are some decent photos of Ek Balam on Playa del Carmen, Mexico's Virtual Guide Book : Playa.Info under the "read more" tab.

My plan gives you an extra day of IM or Coz, better ruins, a great hotel at bargain rates, in a very nice colonial town, and is simpler. Hope this helps and have a great trip!

 

[Ed Hatfield]

If you are interested in seeing some of the less exploited ruins I would ditto the Ek Balam site. You might also consider spendind a night in Valladolid. On the weekend the local band plays at night at the Zocola and features traditional dancing. The flavour is very hispanic and you won't see a lot of tourists. There is a little family run hotel across from the Zocola oposite the church. I can't remember the name but it was very clean and comfortable with a small pool to refresh in. You might also go to Merida and stay in the old downtown section. There are several hotels and some of the most historic architecture of the region. The ruins of Dzibilchaltun are north of Merida on the road to Progresso. These are a 'must see' for anyone interested in Mayan history and not interested in tripping over tourist. If you go early in the morning to Valladolid and see the ruins and enjoy the evening there, you can get to Merida the next day in enough time to see Dzibilchaltun. Spend the night in Merida and head to Coz the next day. It will be go-go-go but you will experience a lot of the Yucatan that most tourists will never see. It is one of the reasons I keep going back. I have been to Palenque, Uxmal, Sayil, Labna, Kabah and several others - loved them all.

 

[Redondoscubadude]

The buses here in Mexico are very good. We came from Isla Mujeres (15 minute ferry to Cancun) to Merida on ADO GL Executive class bus -295 Pesos and 4 hours. I would highly reccomend the place we are staying in Merida - Merida bed and breakfast

 

[driftwood]

If you are interested in seeing some of the less exploited ruins I would ditto the Ek Balam site. You might also consider spendind a night in Valladolid. On the weekend the local band plays at night at the Zocola and features traditional dancing. The flavour is very hispanic and you won't see a lot of tourists. There is a little family run hotel across from the Zocola oposite the church. I can't remember the name but it was very clean and comfortable with a small pool to refresh in. You might also go to Merida and stay in the old downtown section. There are several hotels and some of the most historic architecture of the region. The ruins of Dzibilchaltun are north of Merida on the road to Progresso. These are a 'must see' for anyone interested in Mayan history and not interested in tripping over tourist. If you go early in the morning to Valladolid and see the ruins and enjoy the evening there, you can get to Merida the next day in enough time to see Dzibilchaltun. Spend the night in Merida and head to Coz the next day. It will be go-go-go but you will experience a lot of the Yucatan that most tourists will never see. It is one of the reasons I keep going back. I have been to Palenque, Uxmal, Sayil, Labna, Kabah and several others - loved them all.

Hi Ed,

Check the link I posted for a hotel in Valladolid, we may be talking about the same place. Merida is also on my short list of places to go in the Yucatan, but I think aphaul wasn't looking at trekking that far inland.

 

[espantoon]

Thanks driftwood! I am the "other half" of aphauf, and it looks like staying in Valladolid might work for us-the hotel looks great-I dont think that we can beat the proximity of CI and EB. I'm sure we will bounce any questions about the area off of you as they arise!

 

[scubagal28]

Tulum is well worth seeing. The ruins are beautiful and there is a great beach to go swimming right under the clift the ruins are on.

 

[driftwood]

Thanks driftwood! I am the "other half" of aphauf, and it looks like staying in Valladolid might work for us-the hotel looks great-I dont think that we can beat the proximity of CI and EB. I'm sure we will bounce any questions about the area off of you as they arise!

You are welcome, staying in Valladolid, is less expensive and better rooms than staying at CI or Piste. It is a nice colonial town with enough to see to keep you busy for an afternoon. If you can find one get the CI map by Can-Do Maps and travel guides. The best money you will spend planning your vacation. We buy the latest edition as soon as a trip to the area is in the works.

 

[pelan-pelan]

Just got back yesterday.

Yes - Ek Balam is by far the best. Tulum is not worth the effort by comparison. Important - get to Ek Balam and Chichen Itza as early as possible. They open at 8. Because of the heat and at Chichen Itza thousands of tourists pour in from 11 onwards. Ek Balam in the still of the early morning, birds, insects, ruins emerging from the jungle - you're right there with the ancient Mayas.

Yes - Valladolid is a great place to get the feel of. Stay on the main square, known as the Zocalo. Can vouch for the food at Meson del Marques which is on the square. We stayed at the Hotel Maria de la Luz which is a few yards away also on the square. It is a great place - cheaper than Meson - more kind of top end backpacker. Rooms were compact (hold one double, one single beds) but clean, a/c, shower. Restaurant looks out onto the square so you can take it all in over breakfast, coffee etc. Staff are helpful.

If you are thinking of going up to Holbox to see the whalesharks (just did that and mind blown away) then strongly suggest Casa Tortugas or Mawimbi hotels and whaleshark tours. Some operations do whaleshark tours of 4 hours with 10 per boat with folk "shipped" in from Cancun and charge 80 US. Not enough time - these are a rip off and this is the kind of tour offered by places like Hotel Faro Viejo. 85 - 90 US should get you a 7.30 am or earlier start with 6/7 max and include as much time with the creatures as you want, shore snorkelling, and maybe lighthouse and lagoon tour and get you home after 7 - 8 hours. Will post trip report soon.