the two screws to the right (90 degrees around) serve as the water sensor, not the posts you are pointing to. If there is any salt between them, it shorts out and turns on the light. Those two screws penetrate the bulkhead and extend down into the sealed cavity. They detect water intrusion on the inside (as well) by way of a piece of nylon belt that connects them. When that belt gets damp, especaily with salt water, then it shorts out, turns the light on and precludes the motor from running.
Once that belt gets damp with salt water, it needs to be removed, carefully washed to remove all dissolved salts, dried and then replaced and you can verify the light is no longer going to turn on. You also obviously need to remove the salt water on the inside.
Pulling the bulkhead involves removal of the wires to the battery, remalal of the 4 screws on each corner of the bulkhead, goggling out all the silicone sealant over the screws and the perimeter of the bulkhead. A steak knife works well. This is tedious and will take a while.
Then the hard part, yanking the bulkhead upward. If the thing has not been disaasembled previously it is a bitch because the caulking/sealant is used down below where you can scrap it. I generally use two vice grips on the vertical walls that hold the battery in place, stand on the bottom of the prop shroud and pull and swear and pray I don't break anything. Work it slowly back and forth. You also want to slowly remove it, you can't yank it up a long distance or it will destroy all the attached electrical stuff below.
You got to be super careful you don't screw up the sealing edge of the bottom half of the scooter when working on it.
But you need to remove the prop assembly as a 2 minute inspection procedure as well. Depending on how flooded the prop assembly is and how much water got inside behind the bulkhead, you can try to fix the actual cause of the problem. All the stuff above is just getting it to turn on, it does not fix your actual leakage problem.
