Atomic B2 v. Ti2, and AladdinPro Dive Computer

[DivingHeadFirst]

Hi All,

First off, y'all have been a wealth of information, and I really appreciate all the guidance I've learned from afar perusing all these threads. For context, I'm quite new to diving, but I'm all in - I know this may sound weird, but it's pretty therapeutic for me.

I've done 12 dives thus far (got certified in July), but would like to go at least once a week, so wanted to invest in some gear now. I bought the following items off ebay, and had the following questions. I'd be incredibly grateful for your collective wisdom here. I have more pics I can upload, but apparently 5 is the max.

1) I got the B2 first, and purchase the Ti2 after, but fair to assume to just use the Ti2 as my octo, not the B2?
2) I think the battery's dead on the computer, and I read they're pricey to replace - is it worth it, or should i just start looking for another computer (down the line)?
3) I'm going to have the B2 package (1st and 2nd Stage + hoses) serviced, but the Ti2 said it was serviced already - anything in these pics that concern you? The O-ring for the first stage looks a bit tarnished, but I assume you can just clean that off right?
4) Just out of curiosity, do you think I got a good deal? I paid $320 for the B2 set, and $130 for the Ti2 octo.

Thanks so much in advance!! Hope to see you all down there!

 

[DivingHeadFirst]

Here are a couple more pics, if helpful. Thanks again!

 

[Ouvea]

The Atomic B2 regulator has a chrome plated brass first stage with a second stage that has Titanium components. The Ti2 second stage is identical to the B2 second stage apart from the face plate and the adjustment knob.

The first stage that you have pictured looks to be made of machined metal. Could you possibly have an Atomic T1 first stage?

While the second stages have face plates for a B2 and a Ti2 second stage, the knobs don't match the product line. The adjustment knobs both second stages have plastic inlays, which match the color of the face plate. The knobs in your photos look like those belonging to the Z2 second stage. Really only one way to determine. Expose the air barrel. The B2 & Ti2 second stages have air barrels made of Titanium while the Z2/Z3 & M1 second stages have plated brass (Zirconium supposedly). The titanium is a dull grey. The chrome plated brass yellowish in color as the plating deteriorates (at least at the jam nut)..

Some reference photos for you.

 

[DivingHeadFirst]

Hey! Thanks so much for the post above. The B2 set just came, and I've uploaded pictures below.

The first stage says AF0109, and swivels - I looked online, but couldn't find anything on it.
The second stage looks, honestly, like stainless steel (I know that's not right), but there's one ring on it that could either be dirt, or brass, I'm not sure how to tell - it doesn't go all the way around though, so I hope it's just dirt.

Also, interestingly, was the jam nut looks to be a black plastic - I included it in the pictures.

I'm very confused....

 

[stuartv]

Looks to me like you got a good deal.

The Atomic ST1 first stage is stainless steel. If you got that, then you REALLY made out.

The cap on top of the 1st stage looks like new. I wonder how much it has been used since its last service.

Personally, I would assemble the reg set and test it (or have it tested). If it breathes okay and the IP (Intermediate Pressure) is stable, I would probably go dive it (somewhere pretty benign to start, of course).

The holes in the 1st stage mean (I *think*) that the 1st stage is not envionmentally sealed. If you do have it serviced, you can leave it like that or you have it sealed when they do the service. That will cost extra. If you're diving in south FL, you may not care about having it sealed, as your water is certainly not cold. Personally, I keep my Atomics sealed anyway, just to reduce the amount of wear that happens inside from being exposed to salt water (with its sand, etc).

If you want to have it tested, and you're not sure where to take it, I would call Landon at Aqui Watersports in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. But, anywhere that has a regulator technician should have an Intermediate Pressure gauge and be able to check it out for you. Or you can buy your own IP gauge, do a little reading (here on SB even) and check it out yourself. See the stickies in this subforum for info on checking out your regs.

I reckon you could use either 2nd stage your primary or your octo. Personal preference.

On my Atomic single tank reg set, I ordered the wider exhaust tee for an Atomic M1 and put it on my primary second stage. It makes it a little more bulky to pack in a reg bag, but it pushes the exhaust bubbles out a bit further to the sides of your face, making them less likely to obscure your vision.

As for that computer, I don't know anything about it other than it looks old. My GUESS is that it does not support Nitrox - only Air. I wouldn't put any real money into it personally. But, you need a computer when you're diving. I'm not sure what you meant by looking for something else "down the road". Do you mean to go diving without a computer at all if you don't fix that one? I wouldn't do that.

 

[DivingHeadFirst]

Looks to me like you got a good deal.

The Atomic ST1 first stage is stainless steel. If you got that, then you REALLY made out.

The cap on top of the 1st stage looks like new. I wonder how much it has been used since its last service.

Personally, I would assemble the reg set and test it (or have it tested). If it breathes okay and the IP (Intermediate Pressure) is stable, I would probably go dive it (somewhere pretty benign to start, of course).

The holes in the 1st stage mean (I *think*) that the 1st stage is not envionmentally sealed. If you do have it serviced, you can leave it like that or you have it sealed when they do the service. That will cost extra. If you're diving in south FL, you may not care about having it sealed, as your water is certainly not cold. Personally, I keep my Atomics sealed anyway, just to reduce the amount of wear that happens inside from being exposed to salt water (with its sand, etc).

If you want to have it tested, and you're not sure where to take it, I would call Landon at Aqui Watersports in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. But, anywhere that has a regulator technician should have an Intermediate Pressure gauge and be able to check it out for you. Or you can buy your own IP gauge, do a little reading (here on SB even) and check it out yourself. See the stickies in this subforum for info on checking out your regs.

I reckon you could use either 2nd stage your primary or your octo. Personal preference.

On my Atomic single tank reg set, I ordered the wider exhaust tee for an Atomic M1 and put it on my primary second stage. It makes it a little more bulky to pack in a reg bag, but it pushes the exhaust bubbles out a bit further to the sides of your face, making them less likely to obscure your vision.

As for that computer, I don't know anything about it other than it looks old. My GUESS is that it does not support Nitrox - only Air. I wouldn't put any real money into it personally. But, you need a computer when you're diving. I'm not sure what you meant by looking for something else "down the road". Do you mean to go diving without a computer at all if you don't fix that one? I wouldn't do that.

Thanks for this! Is there any way to figure out the first stage model? I couldn't find what model the AF0109 serial number belongs to, and it looks more 'dull' than the 'chrome' plating on the B2.

To clarify, in my prior post when I referenced the steel look, I was referring to the air barrel - it didn't look like either of Ouvea's pictures, so I wasn't sure what second stage model it was.

So is there any real way for me to tell what model the first and second stage are?

Point taken on the computer - lately I've just been doing shore dives and been constantly referencing my SPG - since I haven't been able to go more often than one dive a week (I only rent one tank at a time, and haven't been on a dive 'trip'), I just take a safety stop and thought that (while not ideal), it would be good enough for now.

 

[Ouvea]

The second stages do appear to have titanium air barrels. I can see machining marks on the first stage, something that is not present on a chrome plated brass finish. Chrome plated brass is far more reflective/shiny than bare Titanium as well.

Which first stage did you the purchase? From the photos, I believe you landed on a T1 first stage. I own the T2 & T2X first stages. Both have their names machined into the body of the first stage. Likewise, the ST1 has its name machined onto the body of the first stage. The black protective ring for the ambien pressure holes has rectangular openings. Atomic changed this to circular openings a very long time ago, well before it released the ST1.

If the regulator holds its IP and has a clean bill of health during its service, I think you got a very good deal for a titanium regulator with peformance characteritics that EQUALS Atomic's current produc line up. Atomic regulators haven't changed in a long time apart from the newly introduced FTX.

I don't have any personal experience with a UWATEC divecomputer. If it works, go ahead and use it.

 

[stuartv]

Thanks for this! Is there any way to figure out the first stage model? I couldn't find what model the AF0109 serial number belongs to, and it looks more 'dull' than the 'chrome' plating on the B2.

To clarify, in my prior post when I referenced the steel look, I was referring to the air barrel - it didn't look like either of Ouvea's pictures, so I wasn't sure what second stage model it was.

So is there any real way for me to tell what model the first and second stage are?

You could use the Contact page on Atomic's website to ask them.

Best Scuba Diving Gear & Equipment | Atomic Aquatics

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www.atomicaquatics.com

You might have gotten a serious score and picked up an original T1 (titanium) 1st stage? If so, I am super jealous.

You could also try weighing it and comparing it to the various specs on the Atomic website. The weight of a titanium first stage should be pretty easy to distinguish from the weight of a stainless or chrome-over-brass 1st stage.

 

[DivingHeadFirst]

Thank you both!

I just bought the listing off eBay, and the seller said it was a B2 Regulator 1st and Second Stage. To answer your questions, there's no other marking other than the high pressure "HP" and the serial number AF0109, so if the ST1 has the "ST" marking on it, I don't think it's one of those.

I'm afraid to disconnect the hoses to determine the weight, since I don't really know what I'm doing and I'm afraid of ruining something. Thanks for sending along that link - I'll reach out to them and let you know if I hear back!

If this is a T1 first stage, is there anything I need to do to it to make it safe or up to date? I had read some threads on this form that said they like 'upgraded' it to a T2 or something to make it safe?

Also there's what looks like some green tarnish on the o-ring of the first stage - I don't have to worry about that...right?

Either way, I'm going to take this in to get serviced/checked as soon as I get the Ti2 octo so they can assemble everything together. Just hope I don't get taken for a ride - will look into Aqui sports! Thanks for the rec!

If y'all are ever in Ft. Lauderdale, please reach out! Would love to dive with you!

 

[MarkA]

As for that computer, I don't know anything about it other than it looks old. My GUESS is that it does not support Nitrox - only Air. I wouldn't put any real money into it personally. But, you need a computer when you're diving. I'm not sure what you meant by looking for something else "down the road". Do you mean to go diving without a computer at all if you don't fix that one? I wouldn't do that.

The computer shows Nitrox written on it in red. I used to have a wrist mount version that looked very similar (blue with Nitrox written on it). Mine was from about 1995. It switches on using wet contacts, that on the surface are commonly activated my wetting your fingers and touching the contacts.

Edit. As others have said. Get a current computer.