Bauer Capitano seems to consume a lot of oil

[Karlster]

New rings aren't going to help if the cylinder wear is too great. You need to check the ring gap with a new ring down the cylinder to determine if the gap is within tolerance. If the cylinder is worn out, you might not be able to get replacements for a machine that age. If you can get them, they won't be cheap.

Good point on potential for cylinder wear. I checked with my machinist today and he can put a cylinder sleeve in if needed for between 150 and 200 dollars.
Thanks for the input
Karl

 

[Karlster]

Definetly your 2nd and 3rd stages are warn out to allow so much oil to bypass. You can buy a complete rebuild kit for it for just around the $400 mark from Lawrence factors "Filtertech.com" The best way to test its performance is to do a blow back pressure test on the block that will give you a good idea of the cylinder condition..

I ordered rings and a valve from filtertech. Inspecting the new rings I notice they have one ring with a slight step in on the lower side of the ring. My original rings all have a rectangular cross section???

Do you have any idea in which position the ring with the step goes? I will call Filtertech in the morning and see what they say.

FWIW, the cylinder shows some slight pitting, presumably from water sitting in it. There is a slight longitudinal score roughly 180 degrees apart on the length of the cylinder wall. It appears to be where the ring ends meet. I'm not sure why the ring ends would create a score in the cylinder wall. Neither of these wear issues seemed severe enough to generate the kind of oil bypassing the rings I was seeing. The original cross hatch marks were still faintly visible in the cylinder walls. The ring end gap on both the old and new rings was very close to .010" The feeler gauge was a lot more snug in the new rings and slid easily into the old rings gap.
I deglazed the cylinder walls with a dingleball hone and will hopefully try it out tomorrow after determining the proper ring placement.



Thanks for all the input and I appreciate any additional suggestions.
Karl

 

[Karlster]

Joe at Filtertech told me the stepped ring is in the lowest position.

I put it all back together and it has been running a few hours with a negligible amount of oil collecting in the 2nd stage trap. Apparently the old rings were letting the oil past even thought they looked fine.

If anyone else reads this thread before tackling 2nd stage ring replacement be forewarned the snap ring that holds the piston pin is a pain in the butt to get out. I should have ordered a new one as it is not very springy and I had to bend it back into shape. It would be a lot more appropriate to have a new one on hand to replace it with.

It is difficult to find a dingleball hone small enough to deglaze the cylinder. Fortunately the local motorcycle repair shop had one that is most likely used for 50cc engines. The NAPA machine shop did not have one that small.

Also it is a pain to get the piston in the cylinder. I don't have a ring compressor that small so I slid the piston in from the top carefully compressing each of the four rings with wooden tongue depressers. I needed a buddy to help push on the rings from two additional points. It would have been easier to slide in from the bottom but the rings are brittle enough I figure it would have chipped up the edges sliding them in. There is no a lot of leeway in dropping the piston down the bottom of the cylinder to slide the wrist pin through and I was worried the lowest ring would drop out of the bore but fortunately it didn't.

Thank you for all the input and guidance.

Karl