Bauer Junior II difference between scuba and paintball

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Thank you rcontera for your reply,

I will do what you suggest.

Thank you very much for clearing that up for me.

This is exactly what I was thinking, but you never know with Bauer, some things are stupid complicated, which can be very simple, ( Think Coltri versus Bauer over pressure relief valves ! Inside a Bauer maybe 20 parts, inside a Coltri, about 3, and the Coltri is a better longer lasting design, and you cannot buy parts for the Bauer, not even the damn cap!)
that is why I covered my ass by suggesting you contact them directly
It is the obvious answer, but until somebody like Ray, who has seen it says so, better safe. You will be fine.
 
I haven't read this entire thread yet, so maybe someone else has already thought of this, but if not:

1 problem with buying a second hand compressor that was initially intended for paintball is that paint ball stores don't understand the issues with breathing quality air. SO! If they didn't use the proper synthetic oil when doing maintenance on the compressor and instead used something NOT compatible with breathing air, then that compressor is junk for scuba diving.

Is there any way you can KNOW for sure that they only used breathing quality lubricant? If not, you need pass on that compressor no matter what the cost.
 
I haven't read this entire thread yet, so maybe someone else has already thought of this, but if not:

1 problem with buying a second hand compressor that was initially intended for paintball is that paint ball stores don't understand the issues with breathing quality air. SO! If they didn't use the proper synthetic oil when doing maintenance on the compressor and instead used something NOT compatible with breathing air, then that compressor is junk for scuba diving.

Is there any way you can KNOW for sure that they only used breathing quality lubricant? If not, you need pass on that compressor no matter what the cost.

Using quality mineral oil does not make the compressor junk for breathing air. After all not too long ago all the compressors used mineral oil for breathing air, and many shop compressors still do.

Synthetic oil is better in the use, lasts longer between changes and has a higher flash point over mineral oil, but both can be used. If I were to buy a second hand compressor I will have it pulled down and serviced and then lubricated with synthetic oil only, however unless the compressor went for a bargain price, it would probably not be worth doing that.

---------- Post added February 24th, 2015 at 12:04 PM ----------

Just checked my Drager/bauer compressor PE-100-T, PE-100-T. The filter fitted is a 057679-410 (same as yours) with 68 gm molecular sieve and also activated carbon. If you look up the bauer specs for your compressor and the manual it should show the tower filter air path. This might explain any differences as well. My manual is http://wssproducts.wilhelmsen.com/mediabank/store/2552/PE-100-T-0110GB.pdf and in it you can see the air enters the base of the tower, where there is the final condensate drain. The air then goes up the filter body on the outside, over the top and then down into the filter body (thus trapping more moisture in the base of the tower), and then I suspect once it passes through the medium there is an internal pipe in the filter body that take the clean air out through the top of the tower.

Now this might be a change from previous models where the air entered the base of the tower then straight up the cartridge through the medium. I suspect an attempt to make the cartridges to last a little longer.

Your tower looks different in that it takes the air out the base, however there may be internal piping. I suspect the difference is the filter tower and how the air is routed. Another option is to add an additional filter after the tower as I have, ensuring though that you also add another priority valve to maintain 100 BAR or so in the second filter body.

Or if its all too much, just buy another bauer so you then know its ok.
 
Mineral Oil is not a problem. 10w40 is a problem. Just make sure you know what's been used.

I don't know that you could clean it well enough for me to ever chance it, if the wrong oil was used. Maybe O2 clean every internal component, crankcase, oil resevoir, etc? And then I'd still be paranoid.
 
IMG_0835.jpgIMG_0836.jpgIMG_0837.jpgIMG_0838.jpgIMG_0839.jpgIMG_0840.jpg
 
The second filter is a bit unwieldy but I have in there a priority valve (brass) and then a non return valve and vent valve with all the required thread converters.

It would have been neater if I had everything the same thread but couldn't find all the fittings I required with the same thread. Really needed to be G 1/4 as the filter body is that thread.

---------- Post added February 24th, 2015 at 12:47 PM ----------

Mineral Oil is not a problem. 10w40 is a problem. Just make sure you know what's been used.

I don't know that you could clean it well enough for me to ever chance it, if the wrong oil was used. Maybe O2 clean every internal component, crankcase, oil resevoir, etc? And then I'd still be paranoid.

A strip-down of the compressor and clean is all it would need to be sure that the correct oil can be used. If you didn't strip down the compressor, you risk carboning of the compressor (see Michael McFadden's great website where he went through this experience with his Bauer)

The issue with mineral oil is not that its mineral oil, but rather that it has a lower flash point and so susceptible to burning in the cylinder and thus creating carbon buildup and carbon monoxide. Synthetic oil can do the same but its flash point is higher, thus reducing the chance of it happening (as well as low carbon, longer runs between oil changes, less risk with nitrox etc). 10W40 or other oils may well be MORE suseptable to carboning thus higher levels of contamination in the oil itself, as well as carbon buildup within the compressed air path. I would however hope that whoever had the paint ball compressor was using the specified oil for that compressor. Given it is a bauer, I would think that they would recommend an oil suitable for high pressures (mineral or synthetic).

As Michael states, changing from mineral oil to synthetic is a bad idea unless you strip the compressor down. I believe it can be done within the first 100 hrs of use but after that a stripdown and clean is required.

I still think the Op's issue is filtration more than anything else. Whether the filter is set up to filter sufficiently for breathing air?
 
Finally, I received the official answer from Bauer HQ!!!

Typically, the are not the same!!! The one for non breathing, has part number #82577 (the cylinder of the filter housing) and it is certified only for non-breathing air. The other for breathing, has part number #77159 (the cylinder of the filter housing) and it is certified only for breathing air.

Actually, the two version (breathing and non breathing) of filter housing are the same!!! The only difference comes from the cartidge you use.

So, I decide to go on and use it for filling my cylinders.

Thank you all for your contribution.



PS: there are no oil or other service issues. This compressor has a perfect service history.
 
If you had any concerns about the filtration you can double filter. The second filter has a long life as long as the first is doing its job. You can confirm during use by weighing the cartridge. Original mass weight is 191 gm and used is 205 gm (regardless of the number of fills you have or have not done as you are weighing the additional content of oil and water, mainly water).
 
If you had any concerns about the filtration you can double filter. The second filter has a long life as long as the first is doing its job. You can confirm during use by weighing the cartridge. Original mass weight is 191 gm and used is 205 gm (regardless of the number of fills you have or have not done as you are weighing the additional content of oil and water, mainly water).

I always use a personal filter like this ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424894960.455206.jpg.

I keep log for both compressor and personal filter and I replace their cartridges before their lifespan.
 

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