BP/W questions from the green one
- Thread starter SergeK
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cool_hardware52
Contributor
I wear my weight belt under my harness. I like the idea that my ballast will "hang up" on the crotch strap should I every inadvertently open the weight belt buckle.
If I should every need to ditch weight it is simply a matter of opening your harness waist buckle first, then the weight belt.
Others may disagree.
Tobin
jefffalcone
Contributor
Kind of off topic, but you might also want to try using a SS tank. You can probably drop another 8 lbs off your belt if you do. Combined with the 11 or so lbs that your rig already has, and the high probabibility that your current BC is a pound or two positive, you will only need a very managable 12 lbs on you belt.
OTOH some would say that it is dangerous to dive with this much non-ditchable weight without a drysuit, because if your wing fails at depth it may be difficult to swim your rig to the surface.
OTOH some would say that it is dangerous to dive with this much non-ditchable weight without a drysuit, because if your wing fails at depth it may be difficult to swim your rig to the surface.
cool_hardware52
Contributor
Perhaps you mean a Steel tank? There are no "SS" tanks. A typical al 80 is +4 when empty, and most commonly used steel tanks are between -1 and -2 lbs empty. That's a difference of about 6 lbs.
Tobin
halocline
Contributor
Sounds like you have a good start on getting a nice rig together. Choosing a wing is probably the toughest part. First, you should get an idea of how much lift you need. Tobin can help quite a bit with that if you go with a DSS wing. (I'm sure he'd help regardless, but if you buy one of his he can recommend a specific wing for your needs)
Start by taking your thickest wetsuit, booties, hood, gloves, and put them in a mesh bag, toss in the water, and start adding weight to the bag until it sinks. This is the total buoyancy of your wetsuit. You'll need at least this much lift. Then add up the weight of your total rig including any non ditchable weight. Plate, full tank, STA, reg, any camband weights, etc. You'll need this much lift to float your rig if it becomes necessary to take it off in the water.
Whichever of those two numbers is larger is your minimum lift need. You should buy a wing that has that much lift, but ideally not too much more than that. Smaller wings are much easier to vent and control, and in general are more pleasant to dive with.
You're going to drop more weight than just the weight of the plate and STA. Chances are good that your current BC has some positive buoyancy. I dropped about 10 lbs (depends on the day) going from a standard BC to a 6lbs SS plate/wing/webbing harness. All that useless padding in a jacket BC that makes buyers feel warm and fuzzy in the dive shop is a burden under water.
Start by taking your thickest wetsuit, booties, hood, gloves, and put them in a mesh bag, toss in the water, and start adding weight to the bag until it sinks. This is the total buoyancy of your wetsuit. You'll need at least this much lift. Then add up the weight of your total rig including any non ditchable weight. Plate, full tank, STA, reg, any camband weights, etc. You'll need this much lift to float your rig if it becomes necessary to take it off in the water.
Whichever of those two numbers is larger is your minimum lift need. You should buy a wing that has that much lift, but ideally not too much more than that. Smaller wings are much easier to vent and control, and in general are more pleasant to dive with.
You're going to drop more weight than just the weight of the plate and STA. Chances are good that your current BC has some positive buoyancy. I dropped about 10 lbs (depends on the day) going from a standard BC to a 6lbs SS plate/wing/webbing harness. All that useless padding in a jacket BC that makes buyers feel warm and fuzzy in the dive shop is a burden under water.
jefffalcone
Contributor
Yep, meant steel tank. Half asleep still. Thanks for the correction.
The 8 lbs figure I came up with just came from the amount of weight I dropped when I switched from AL 80 to worthingto HP 100. I was must have been 2 lbs overweighted when I was diving the AL 80.
Yes I tried this. Steel tanks are really good for me
On OWD dives I have robbed my instructor for his own 2 steel tanks and it was a lot easier. I think I lost 2 weights strait away. Problem is I do not have my own tanks and LDS where I dive supply only Al ones, like pretty much all of them. So I just have to live with Al.To be honest, so far I did not have any trouble finning up
Main issue is to hold safety stop at the end of the dive Say on 30m I happily stayed with no air in BCD at all, as soon as I keep moving. If I stop then I need to put some air into BCD, of course. Sure it will require some experimentation before I get satisfactory results. Ditching 12lb hopefully should be enough to do emergency buoyant accent, which would be better to avoid, anyway.I live in Australia, Brisbane so no cold water diving considerations. 5 mil wetsuit is all you really need for winter, in summer you probably can get away with 3 mil. I guess 30lb of lift should be enough for my needs. If I need more in future, I probably buy another wing.
thanks guys for input, going to sleep now
I'll be back in the morningQuaff King
Contributor
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Serge,
The sharp edges on the Hammerhead plates are minimal. You can use a file or emory cloth and knock off any burrs in about 3 minutes if you even find one. The STA's are more work but the Hammerhead Website clearly points out that they are not finished. I didn't feel like filing my STA and I bought a can of the vinyl dip they sell in the hardware store. Then I dipped the ends of my sta in a tray with the vinyl goop and presto instant rubber coated STA. Worked pretty sweet.
The sharp edges on the Hammerhead plates are minimal. You can use a file or emory cloth and knock off any burrs in about 3 minutes if you even find one. The STA's are more work but the Hammerhead Website clearly points out that they are not finished. I didn't feel like filing my STA and I bought a can of the vinyl dip they sell in the hardware store. Then I dipped the ends of my sta in a tray with the vinyl goop and presto instant rubber coated STA. Worked pretty sweet.
Sure, I did not think it is impossible task to do. I was just wandering if someone already done it before. I do not have this plate in my hands yet, I bought it and I am waiting for delivery now But looking what other people say about these BPs and STA, I was guessing if it is a serious problem or what.. So, you see, I am not complaining, just collecting the info Anyway, judging by price, hammerhead SS BP/STA is an excellent deal, is not it? Elsewhere you can get BP for $150 + around $100 for STA. Not a bad idea even if you have to do some filing. If I'll have some time I might post the photos of BP/STA when it is arrived and after removing sharp edges, etc. The idea of rubber-coating however looks really good Minimal effort, good results. I guess you can polish it as well, if you care about how it looks.
But looking what other people say about these BPs and STA, I was guessing if it is a serious problem or what.. So, you see, I am not complaining, just collecting the info Anyway, judging by price, hammerhead SS BP/STA is an excellent deal, is not it? Elsewhere you can get BP for $150 + around $100 for STA. Not a bad idea even if you have to do some filing. If I'll have some time I might post the photos of BP/STA when it is arrived and after removing sharp edges, etc. The idea of rubber-coating however looks really good Minimal effort, good results. I guess you can polish it as well, if you care about how it looks.
Riiiiight! That actually depends on whether or not you have someone to help you get it set up correctly. I'm still fighting with mine and hating the one piece webbing. I agree with waiting for quick releases though it may be more than 10 dives before you get the hang of getting into and out of the thing.
Ber :lilbunny:
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