DrQuest
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I want to construct an oversized check valve like the one in my snorkel, would someone have any diagrams or info on what they consist of, ie, materials, general discription of how they work.
Check valve on snorkel
- Thread starter DrQuest
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Charlie99
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Just find a snorkel and take a good look. Just like the exhaust valve on a regulator, the purge valve at the bottom of a snorkel is just a floppy mushroom shaped piece of silicone. It seals against water flowing one way, but lifts off the seat to allow water or air to be blown out the other way.
You can get some pretty cheap snorkels. Just chopping off that section of the snorkel and using the whole valve assembly would probably be the easiest way to get a check valve. Actually, looking at the cheap kid's snorkel I bought in the Keys to keep some dive op happy, the purge valve is a chunk of plastic tubing about 3/4" long that can easily be popped out of the silicone mouthpiece.
Your other alternative is to see if you can get a replacement exhaust valve flapper or mushroom for a 2nd stage regulator, but then you have to build something to hold the valve and a flat surface for it to seat against. Ripping the entire purge valve section out of the bottom of a snorkel would be a lot easier and probably a lot cheaper.
Charlie Allen
You can get some pretty cheap snorkels. Just chopping off that section of the snorkel and using the whole valve assembly would probably be the easiest way to get a check valve. Actually, looking at the cheap kid's snorkel I bought in the Keys to keep some dive op happy, the purge valve is a chunk of plastic tubing about 3/4" long that can easily be popped out of the silicone mouthpiece.
Your other alternative is to see if you can get a replacement exhaust valve flapper or mushroom for a 2nd stage regulator, but then you have to build something to hold the valve and a flat surface for it to seat against. Ripping the entire purge valve section out of the bottom of a snorkel would be a lot easier and probably a lot cheaper.
Charlie Allen
Hello DrQuest,
If you are making a large exhaust valve, consider using a second stage diaphragm. They are readily available and inexpensive.
You should also learn to drink ale. It does not need to be kept in the refrigerator so no back and forth trips away from your DIY work station are required.
Hope this helps,
couv
If you are making a large exhaust valve, consider using a second stage diaphragm. They are readily available and inexpensive.
You should also learn to drink ale. It does not need to be kept in the refrigerator so no back and forth trips away from your DIY work station are required.
Hope this helps,
couv
gomi_otaku
Contributor
The purge valve is pretty basic- if you took a flat piece of rigid material, and wanted to add a one way valve, do the following-
Draw a circle
Bisect it with a horizontal and a vertical line
Cut out within the boundaries of the quarter sections that you just drew, leaving the cross lines with enough material to retain rigidity, and leave a center circle in the middle
Drill a hole in the middle
Cut a chunk of rubber (truck innertube?) in a circle slightly larger than your cut out quarters circle.
Use some kind of rivet in the center of the rubber circle and the material circle.
For example, you could use something like this in the bottom of a plastic 5 gallon bucket, for a "self-filling bucket". You push the bucket down into water, and the flap comes up, allowing water to fill the bucket. You lift the bucket out of the water, and the flap closes, keeping the water in the bucket from pouring out the valve.
Just remember, the "holes" need to be small enough that the rubber is not pushed through them by the force of whatever it is holding. You may need to leave more cross bracing to keep this from happening. And because of this, numerous small valves may be better than one large one
gomi_
Draw a circle
Bisect it with a horizontal and a vertical line
Cut out within the boundaries of the quarter sections that you just drew, leaving the cross lines with enough material to retain rigidity, and leave a center circle in the middle
Drill a hole in the middle
Cut a chunk of rubber (truck innertube?) in a circle slightly larger than your cut out quarters circle.
Use some kind of rivet in the center of the rubber circle and the material circle.
For example, you could use something like this in the bottom of a plastic 5 gallon bucket, for a "self-filling bucket". You push the bucket down into water, and the flap comes up, allowing water to fill the bucket. You lift the bucket out of the water, and the flap closes, keeping the water in the bucket from pouring out the valve.
Just remember, the "holes" need to be small enough that the rubber is not pushed through them by the force of whatever it is holding. You may need to leave more cross bracing to keep this from happening. And because of this, numerous small valves may be better than one large one
gomi_
diveasr
Contributor
what exactly are you building
gomi oataku graet idea i just built my mother one of those
gomi oataku graet idea i just built my mother one of those
A new way of producing alternative energy, presently I am useing the cloth from one of those custom vehicle covers that let the vehicle breath, but keeps the water out.
Since I am useing a small ducted fan in a air pocket, I wanted to have an extra guard that would better guarantee than my motor is protected against water ruining it.
In a quality regulator, what is the diameter of the check valve diaphragm?
and to Gomi Ataku thanks for the good manufacturing description, I'll be try to make one.
Since I am useing a small ducted fan in a air pocket, I wanted to have an extra guard that would better guarantee than my motor is protected against water ruining it.
In a quality regulator, what is the diameter of the check valve diaphragm?
and to Gomi Ataku thanks for the good manufacturing description, I'll be try to make one.
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