Doubles Band Material Options?

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Akimbo

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Has anyone left Nylon webbing bands on cylinders for long periods — like years? If so, was corrosion and salt build-up under them any better or worse than under stainless bands?

I am making up a few sets of custom doubles bands and started thinking about alternatives to stainless. Underwater Kinetics used to make self-draining rubber-like cushion inserts that went under stainless bands back in the 80s, but I never left any on long enough to see if they actually did any good. It seems like Nylon webbing would dry better, but salt build-up might be worse. Either one as just as easy for me to make.

I don’t think stretching will be a significant issue. I am thinking of using 2” Nylon webbing that is sewn into a circle with an overlapping seam. Two holes would be punched and melted, then backed by stainless plates/rectangular washers.

All ideas are welcome, I am an experimenting kind'a guy.
 
Has anyone left Nylon webbing bands on cylinders for long periods — like years? If so, was corrosion and salt build-up under them any better or worse than under stainless bands?

I am making up a few sets of custom doubles bands and started thinking about alternatives to stainless. Underwater Kinetics used to make self-draining rubber-like cushion inserts that went under stainless bands back in the 80s, but I never left any on long enough to see if they actually did any good. It seems like Nylon webbing would dry better, but salt build-up might be worse. Either one as just as easy for me to make.

I don’t think stretching will be a significant issue. I am thinking of using 2” Nylon webbing that is sewn into a circle with an overlapping seam. Two holes would be punched and melted, then backed by stainless plates/rectangular washers.

All ideas are welcome, I am an experimenting kind'a guy.

Lining the inside of a SS band with a vinyl bumper sticker works well – especially those green Nitrox ones some shops make you buy,
 
Nylon is hygroscopic - it actually absorbs and holds water. Add a little salt (and once salt gets in webbing no amount of rinsing will ever get it completely out) and it can suck the moisture right out of the air, so it remains damp even when the rest of the tank isn't. I sure wouldn't use it. on my tanks It would be like leaving a wet sponge on the tank. I like metal to metal or a non-porous layer in between when dissimilar metal corrosion is a problem since they allow the best chance of rinse water to get in, and any residual moisture to dry out. I like to spray the tanks and bands with Boeshield (waxed base anti-corrosion spray) and assemble them wet, but can't swear it actually does anything.

I have seen over the years some webbing doubles bands, made mostly for traveling divers. One used a very clever plastic wedge to join the straps, which allowed it to be tightening very tight, but weren't intended to be left on permanently.
 
I would agree with Oxy, on my military bands that have the strap harness running through slots and between the band and tank the corrosion is always worse where the strap touches the tank than where the bands touch the tank.
 
I would agree with Oxy, on my military bands that have the strap harness running through slots and between the band and tank the corrosion is always worse where the strap touches the tank than where the bands touch the tank.

I have also observed spot corrosion with uncoated webbing, especially Cotton. What I have not seen proof of is if coated Nylon webbing used in modern Scuba harnesses and weight belts exhibits the same hygroscopic properties. The course texture of the coated webbing “might” allow more evaporation.

Here is a photo of one of the self-draining pads that was made by Underwater Kiniteics in the 1980s. I wonder if making bands like this from old beat-to-hell self-draining tank boots would be worth the effort? I will be making custom bands anyway.
 

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