First dive setup and techniques: advice needed

[fbk]

So the corrections in Cineform are instant when in AVI form w/o need to export?

Correct. I couldn't get my head around it first either until I tried it and saw it work just like magic. If you have stuffed up the colours you can just open the AVI in cineform, reset and start again. This is the beauty of Cineforms non-destructive editing, you can go back at any stage and tweak the colours some more and just re-export in your editor. Use the editor for piecing it all together, adding music, transitions etc. There are many to try for free, I really liked Powerdirector11 after trialling a few.

 

[hellhole]

All that is been said are good advice. I even pick up some tips!

Just to add on.

Monopod
It is possible to shoot more stable with it by puttting your free hand on the rod of the monopod. U will have one hand on the handle. One hand further up the rod around half way. Esp useful if u extend it fully.
Another way is to shoot in upside down mode. Then u dun have to balance the gopro on the monopod. Esp useful if u have a battery attached or lcd attached. The gopro3 is light, but u get a wrist work out if u keep trying to balance it straight.

Lcd
The old lcd works on the gp3. Less the touchscreen. Probsbly see if u can a cheap one on sale.

Dessicant strip! !
Why no one mentioned these stuff!!! Very important esp if u gonna shoot in pro tune! ! Get a whole bunch from ebay. I got some from eelvision

 

[EL Pistoffo]

All that is been said are good advice. I even pick up some tips!

Just to add on.

Monopod
It is possible to shoot more stable with it by puttting your free hand on the rod of the monopod. U will have one hand on the handle. One hand further up the rod around half way. Esp useful if u extend it fully.
Another way is to shoot in upside down mode. Then u dun have to balance the gopro on the monopod. Esp useful if u have a battery attached or lcd attached. The gopro3 is light, but u get a wrist work out if u keep trying to balance it straight.

Lcd
The old lcd works on the gp3. Less the touchscreen. Probsbly see if u can a cheap one on sale.

Dessicant strip! !
Why no one mentioned these stuff!!! Very important esp if u gonna shoot in pro tune! ! Get a whole bunch from ebay. I got some from eelvision

The task of choosing a monopod is a bit daunting. So damn many of them and I want a good performing one. As mentioned in an earlier post, I want a monopod that's not to flimsy (stable and not very shaky) and with salt water resistance. Some look like they'd snap easy others look sturdier but on a PC screen its not the best way to observe such things. A few are a bit pricey and not sure if worth it. Most monopods start off a bit to long when retracted but i'll have to settle with something soon. I will later look into a tray or similar.

I ordered a bunch of Desiccant strip from ebay yesterday. I figured needing those was a given.

 

[hellhole]

The task of choosing a monopod is a bit daunting. So damn many of them and I want a good performing one. As mentioned in an earlier post, I want a monopod that's not to flimsy (stable and not very shaky) and with salt water resistance. Some look like they'd snap easy others look sturdier but on a PC screen its not the best way to observe such things. A few are a bit pricey and not sure if worth it. Most monopods start off a bit to long when retracted but i'll have to settle with something soon. I will later look into a tray or similar.

I ordered a bunch of Desiccant strip from ebay yesterday. I figured needing those was a given.

ah! let me throw in what i use as well haha
Big U-shot
Big UShot

They have 2 sizes. i use the big ushot as it start off at a decent length to begin with. I do not need to really extend it that much. from what i have tried.. the long the monopod goes.. the harder it is to stay stable.

I have the older version that does not have the soft handle.. i think its better as the sea water COULD be harsh to the soft handle. no rust from all the use so far. its from europe, but i believe amazon us has them as well.

 

[EL Pistoffo]

ah! let me throw in what i use as well haha
Big U-shot
Big UShot

They have 2 sizes. i use the big ushot as it start off at a decent length to begin with. I do not need to really extend it that much. from what i have tried.. the long the monopod goes.. the harder it is to stay stable.

I have the older version that does not have the soft handle.. i think its better as the sea water COULD be harsh to the soft handle. no rust from all the use so far. its from europe, but i believe amazon us has them as well.

That Big Ushot looks similar to what i'm looking for. The only thing about it that looks questionable to me is the mounting yoke section. It's a ball and socket type and looks as if it would not be very resistant to underwater movement.

Up till now my two main contenders are:
Amazon.com: GoPole REACH - Telescoping Extension Pole for GoPro HERO Cameras 17-40": Electronics
Amazon.com: Sealife Aquapod Underwater Monopod, Black SL913: SEALIFE: Electronics

and a runner up:
Amazon.com: Quik Pod DSLR Monopod: Electronics

Now to make a choice.

 

[hellhole]

Well.. I didn't have a problem. Have fun choosing!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[EL Pistoffo]

Well I finally got a video editing workflow that works for me. I load original file into Cineform then convert to AVI. Then I apply ProTune correction preset to AVI (that preset too dark for my taste, need to fine tune it or do it in Premiere). I then load AVI into Premiere and edit (best I can for now). Then I export from Premiere back into Cineform AVI. Then I load that AVI back into Cineform and convert to mp4 for better sized (smaller) files. End result looks good.

I tried exporting from Premiere in every format and quality thinkable. Some files were way to large, others just looked like crap. At least I've made some progress.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Edit: @fbk
I'm trying out Powerdirector11. It's seems to give me good results when output to mp4 and it's easier to use than Adobe Premiere.

 

[UnderwaterHuntress]

1) I prefer using Pro Tunes as you have more ability to adjust the quality of the video. Think of it like a "raw" photo (Pro Tunes on) vs jpg (video with Pro Tunes off). Personally I have found my videos to be very easy to color correct with the "auto balance" button and occasionally need to use the more in depth color correction features in FCPX.

2) I shoot using the Polar Pro filters or Oculus filter with Pro Tunes on. Keep in mind you only need red filters if deeper than 15 ft or so. As you go deeper you lose colors in the spectrum which you cannot bring back in post production editing. That is why the red filters are useful. You can always remove some color but never add what is not captured originally by the camera.

3) I exclusively use 1080p 60 fps and play them on my 46" Samsung TV all the time. Makes you feel like you are "in" the dive! : )

4 & 5) I have filmed short clips and left my camera on through the entire dive, which is my preference. The reason I prefer leaving the camera on throughout the dive is that you never know when that "money shot" will appear and what if the moment you go to turn the camera on you scare away the fish?? I have also found since scenes happen so quickly you cannot react and line up fast enough. This is also why I where the camera on my head. That way whatever I am looking it will be in the film. The batteries normally last 90-120 mins. I do not use the backpack screen, that sucks up the battery too quickly and since I wear it on my head, no point. If you are holding the camera in your hands than the LCD would be useful and limits you to about 45-60 mins of battery time. The LCD would be helpful if you are using it with your hands to be accurate that you are getting what you want in the frame.

6) Depends on how you plan to use it in the water. I have mine secured with a beany cap over the head strap and therefore it is lined up so that it captures what I am looking at. The LCD would be helpful if you are using it with your hands to be accurate that you are getting what you want in the frame.

Check out some of my Go Pro videos and you can see my setup in some of them and how 1080p @ 60 fps w/ Pro Tunes on and off looks.

Polar Pro Snap on Red Filter for Go Pro Hero 3 - Black Edition & ProTunes On - YouTube


Underwater Huntress
www.UnderwaterHuntress.com

 

[EL Pistoffo]

1) I prefer using Pro Tunes as you have more ability to adjust the quality of the video. Think of it like a "raw" photo (Pro Tunes on) vs jpg (video with Pro Tunes off). Personally I have found my videos to be very easy to color correct with the "auto balance" button and occasionally need to use the more in depth color correction features in FCPX.

2) I shoot using the Polar Pro filters or Oculus filter with Pro Tunes on. Keep in mind you only need red filters if deeper than 15 ft or so. As you go deeper you lose colors in the spectrum which you cannot bring back in post production editing. That is why the red filters are useful. You can always remove some color but never add what is not captured originally by the camera.

3) I exclusively use 1080p 60 fps and play them on my 46" Samsung TV all the time. Makes you feel like you are "in" the dive! : )

4 & 5) I have filmed short clips and left my camera on through the entire dive, which is my preference. The reason I prefer leaving the camera on throughout the dive is that you never know when that "money shot" will appear and what if the moment you go to turn the camera on you scare away the fish?? I have also found since scenes happen so quickly you cannot react and line up fast enough. This is also why I where the camera on my head. That way whatever I am looking it will be in the film. The batteries normally last 90-120 mins. I do not use the backpack screen, that sucks up the battery too quickly and since I wear it on my head, no point. If you are holding the camera in your hands than the LCD would be useful and limits you to about 45-60 mins of battery time. The LCD would be helpful if you are using it with your hands to be accurate that you are getting what you want in the frame.

6) Depends on how you plan to use it in the water. I have mine secured with a beany cap over the head strap and therefore it is lined up so that it captures what I am looking at. The LCD would be helpful if you are using it with your hands to be accurate that you are getting what you want in the frame.

Check out some of my Go Pro videos and you can see my setup in some of them and how 1080p @ 60 fps w/ Pro Tunes on and off looks.

Polar Pro Snap on Red Filter for Go Pro Hero 3 - Black Edition & ProTunes On - YouTube


Underwater Huntress
www.UnderwaterHuntress.com

60 frames does look good if you can keep it post processing. It seems that Adobe Premiere kills the 60 fps, that's why i'm truing out newer stuff like PowerDirector. I don't see myself getting the LCD anytime soon, the Wide angle covers plenty of view. I will also be filming straight through it seems, I don't want to miss any good shots.

That dive on you vid, it looked like it was an overcast day but you editing was nicely done. I need to get better at correcting the color and such, it's hard for me to decide what looks correct or "good".

Thanks for the tips Huntress

 

[fbk]

Good to read that you are making progress... the Cineform AVI conversion/adjustment process is simple and well worth the effort. Then its just a matter of finding an editor to suit your taste, I tried several and PD11 was the most user friendly to me as a complete noob yet still has some powerful features. It exports into whatever format you choose effortlessly and with excellent results.