From my Micro 3.0

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Yes, I’m only now staring to explore ways to bring out the best of an image with the sharpness and definition features as well as the normal color and tint, and of course cropping. Some of the raw images that look pretty bland can really be made to “pop“ with just a little digital manipulation. At first I felt like this was “cheating,” but the image is already there, I’m just bringing out the best of it!
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Are you shooting JPEG or RAW? If it's the latter, what's the save lag? -- My understanding is it was so bad on DC2000 as to make it useless for shooting RAW.
 
dmaziuk, I have to admit that I'm a digital Luddite and don't have an answer to your question. I know I've only been able to painfully transfer images one at a time via some mystical program that involves web access. I do remember seeing RAW in the instruction book, but I don't really know what they're talking about. I believe what gets transferred to my iPad is a simple jpeg, but I could be wrong. Sorry I can't be more helpful. 🥺

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:) I was just making sure.

TL;DR: RAW format records what the sensor sees, no processing is done on the camera. You have to do white balance etc. later, usually in a desktop program like photoshop. Which would potentially let you get the colours closer to what you want -- at the expense of finding the software that can read their particular version of RAW and learning how to do all that and so on.
 
OK, I think I understand. I still can’t tell you for sure, but as to your concern about the time involved, the camera has video as well as a sort of “burst fire” capability that enables the shooter to shoot a string of several images in rapid succession. however, I did go back and read that section of the instruction manual and they note that it takes two seconds per image to write it in RAW.

I'm sorry I can’t be of greater assistance, but remember what I said when I started discussing this whole SeaLife thing… I’m still an old Nikonos and film kinda guy and this is all new to me. I’m at the very bottom of the learning curve!

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I went back and read my earlier postings and see where I used the term, “raw” which I used to mean straight off the camera’s memory disc with no adjustments or enhancements at all. Unfortunately I was and am ignorant enough of digital photography to confuse the discussion by ignoring RAW as a specific term in this unfamiliar field for me. My apologies!
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no worries

Yes, 2-3 seconds is what I recall about DC2000 as well: not exactly what yo want when shooting a moving fish.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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