Hammerhead Backplate Question

[swinchen]

Ok, I just got done rigging the harness. All I have to say is that threading the buckle is a total &^#%! Up through the bottom, down through the middle, up through the third went fine. Going back down through the first one took me a lot longer than I would like to admit! And now that I look at it... Nemrod, you have a right-hand release buckle. I used this video from scubatoys:
Scuba Diving Videos Assembling (Threading) a Back Plate .... It suggested a left hand release. I REALLY hope I don't need to move the buckle!

Ok, the Hammerhead kit only came with one bolt. So I could do the back, or the front... but not both. and from their website: "We include enough webbing for the crotch strap and include a stainless steel bolt and cap nut for those that prefer to bolt the crotch strap." And there appears to be a hole under the STA mounting holes. It looks like I could bolt the crotch strap directly to plate.

So I guess that just leaves me with the loop that goes around the belt. kgdiver suggests a keeper for that. Excellent. (if a weight belt keeper is the same as those metal keepers for the D rings)

Actually I have two keepers left, so I think I will use the serrated one in the back and the non-serrated in the front. Is that pretty standard?

Then I get to adjust it and frig with it until it feels right! Well, at least when I save up enough to buy all the rest of stuff I need

 

[Mr. Sunday]

Sounds like you have got it.

The release should be on the left side so you can open it with your right hand.

 

[swinchen]

Sounds like you have got it.

The release should be on the left side so you can open it with your right hand.

Ugh! That is exactly backwards from the way scubatoys did it in their video! That's ok, I am done frigging with it for the night I think.

Also, the serrated keeper wont work for the crotch strap because the webbing only fits through each side once. I think I might just pick up another non-serrated keeper. I think I like those better than bolting.

It is ok if I have the buckle on the wrong side, I think I will redo it tomorrow and cross the shoulder straps. I have extremely wide shoulders and when I put this if pulled the webbing at a strange angle on the top of the backplate. Crossing the shoulder straps I think would help out.


Phew. It is funny, people said this would take a few hours to do... and I looked how simple I thought it all was and laughed. I was wrong

Sam

 

[Splitlip]

Should have bought a "poodle" jacket.

Not that hard Bro. Think it through on your own.

 

[swinchen]

Should have bought a "poodle" jacket.

Not that hard Bro. Think it through on your own.

Heh, I know. The worse part is... I am an engineer so this shouldn't be difficult. I probably should have gotten a "regular" BC as my first setup. It is very strange getting a box of parts and not a single instruction. Plus all the instructions I find online use a pre-made crotch strap.

But I think with the help I have gotten from here I have finally figured it out. Now I am just trying to find a place that sells the non-serrated keepers. I am pretty sure they are called tri-glides. Either that or I will just bolt the back of the crotch strap.

 

[RonFrank]

Bad news bro. It looks like your DRings are upside down. I can't tell for sure, but they should be mounted so they stick out, not in. So the bend should be away from the diver.

If that is the case you may want to redo that. It makes it easier to attach things.

 

[Nemrod]

The bolt for the crotch strap does not go into the plate. No, no, no. The crotch strap loops through the lower slot. Then you burn a hole through the webbing with a pencil type soldering iron. Then the bolt goes through the webbing only. The bolt--repeat---does not go through the plate. The holes you see are all for the STA/wing to allow up and down adjustment. The crotch strap ONLY goes through the lower slot, the bolt goes through the loop. I placed the rubber inner tube sleeves over the bolt to prevent it wearing on my wetsuit or my swimsuit (sans wetsuit).

I am pretty sure my buckle is correct but right or wrong that is how it will be for me.

I have some pics I lifted from a website but I have no idea whose site so I cannot post them without due credit I don't think.

OK, the upper straps cross over the plate, these will be locked with the bolt that attaches yoyr STA. If you do not have a STA then you will not put anything there. You can use tri-glides at each corner and top to lock the webbing rather than the bolt that would be at the top cross over if you were using a STA.

The pin is pointing to the hole burned through the top webbing, this hole attaches the top STA bolt. Without an STA nothing goes here.

If you put a bolt in the lowest hole on the plate and bolt the crotch strap the tank or STA will ride on it. Note also that I cut the center panel on this old style wing to reduce the taco effect significantly. I bonded it back and of course the lower STA bolt helps to secure it solidly. Much improvement.

N

 

[RonFrank]

Bad news bro. It looks like your DRings are upside down. I can't tell for sure, but they should be mounted so they stick out, not in. So the bend should be away from the diver.

If that is the case you may want to redo that. It makes it easier to attach things.

My bad, I thought the photo's were of the Ops setup.

 

[Mr. Sunday]

Now I am just trying to find a place that sells the non-serrated keepers. I am pretty sure they are called tri-glides.

Technical Hardware


Dive Rite Express

 

[cmburch]

Nemrod,
Excellent instructions and Pics. I notice your DR STA rubber protectors are not covering the STA to prevent contact between tank and STA.