I don't think I'd mind the reversed image until it came to trying to use the LCD for panning. Because you'd instictively want to pan with the object that was moving. But I don't know since I've never really tried it. If you're using the viewfinder or just shooting over the top of the housing, there's no difference. But given that you can't add an external monitor w/o doing some custom work to the Ikelite, it's likely you would at times be using the LCD for framing since using the viewfinder with a mask is harder. Especially if you're panning on something going by fast.
I'd go for an HC-series with the EVO. But I'm biased. Here's my reasons why:
I'm only ever going to buy Sony cameras with LANC ports. And likely put them in electronic housings. For multiple reasons:
I like to maintain a firm grip on the housing's handles when I'm shooting. And I really like to push a button to zoom in and out while keeping the subject centered in the viewfinder. Most people who use mechanical housings say you get used to where the controls are located but you still have to take your hand off the handle. And if the housing is new, likely also have to hold it out in front of you to locate the control. With my EVO the buttons are right where you'd expect them to be. I also stop/start my camera often so having the trigger under your forefinger just works.
I've seen continous action footage shot with an Ikelite housing in a slight current and several times during the clip I could see a jiggle when the operator released a handle to push/move a control. I don't know if it's because the Ikelite is too heavy or too lite.
In all fairness, they had lights attached to the housing so that may've caused some of the problem.
I like to plug in two connectors (Lanc & Mic) seal the back and dive.
I also like to record sound. I shot Dolphins last April and you hear all the clicks/pops as they sonared us. Especially when one of them liked her reflection in my port. I don't remember hearing it while diving but it's on the tape.
I like a redundant depth rating to keep my $1000+ camera from getting wet. The Amphibico's 330' rating does that for me. I could theoretically exceed the Ikelite's rating and don't need to be worried about that just then.
I'm also a big fan of dual o-ringed metal boxes for my cameras. You can afford to be a little rougher with them if necessary in swells or bad surface conditions. I had a poly housing before I bought my EVO and there's a huge difference in the construction and durability. Price too of course... And nobody damages your EVO when they drop their housing on top of it in the rinse bucket. Even the front port is recessed to minimize damage.
I also like an alarm to go off indicating a leak. Especially in a non-clear housing. I don't want to have to peer into my Gates or Equinox housing to see if there's water inside. I turn my camera on before I put the housing in the water so it will go off if I don't have a good seal also. Might be able to save the camera that way on the surface. My pro photographer friend always says it's not if you'll have a leak, it's when.
Although if Gates ports had been cheaper, I might be shooting one now.
Things I wish my Amphibico had: MWB. I'd use it if I could. Since I'll never shoot with lights. I also wish the d&$@ thing was lighter since it rides in my carry-on.
I can't comment on the HV20 as I've never held one.
There is some discussion in the HC7 review on camcorderinfo.com about it's low light performance that you may want to read. Although with lights it's less of an issue.
I'll throw you another curve - seen the Seatools HC7 housing???
http://www.seatoolusa.com/hc7/index.php They also have an HC3 housing.
My best advice, do what I did. Call Mike Luzansky at
H20PhotoPros. He spent at least a 1/2 hr. on the phone with me discussing all the options before I bought my EVO - from him...(818) 535-3251. Or PM him
here on SB.