IKelite Housing for D800, Any Reviews or Feedback?

[guyharrisonphoto]

I am thinking about this housing. Is there anyone using it that can give feedback? I don't want to hear how housings that are double cost would be better, rather, I want to hear how the Ikelite housing works in terms of functionality, etc.

Thanks

 

[PatW]

I have seen reviews in Wet Pixel of various housings. I have not seen reviews of the D800 housings. But I think if you looked at the reviews of Ikelite housings for similar DSLRS, you would probably get a decent idea of what to expect.

 

[cbrich]

I am not big fan of the Ikelite DSLR housing, because the port mounting. I have personally seen the o-ring port un-seat from the housing with the slightest movement of the port with the port held down with the tabs, aka, the port gets hit by P&S camera in the rinse tank, and bam the housing the floods. I have been told that some operators won't even touch a camera with Ikelite housing, not for sure if this true.

The Ikelite housing I held was for Nikon D90, and I did not like the feel, some of the controls required my hand to come off the handle.

I found this in another thread:

Liveaboard crews are extremely good about handling cameras. We allow and encourage the giant stride-turn and pivot method with everything except a honking big dome port, or anything marked Ikelite. The Ikelite port attachments just won't handle that kind of abuse, in fact, we won't do anything with your Ikelite except take it from you and place it on the deck, out of the way, of course. Rinsing it or placing it in the rinse barrel is completely your decision and action. If you have a milled aluminum housing (Subal, Aquatica, Nauticam, Sea & Sea etc.) you will be perfectly fine. I don't know what you are using for strobe arms, but if they are long ones, The most sucessful way I've seen them handles is to fold them above the housing with the strobes next to the housing as compact as possible. Tie the knuckles of the strobe arms together with a double bolt snap or something similar. It makes a great handle to hand your camera up to the tender driver/deck crew.

 

[dhaas]

What crap.............

I'm not a big fan of aluminum housings I can't see inside (do a search and find out how many of those flooded, in the rinse tank, port bayonetting off when the crew grabbed the port, etc.) and require more maintenance due to electrolysis of dissimilar metal fittings, no TTL flash control, etc.

Any housing can flood......

PS - Anyone who leaves ANY housing in a rinse tank not holding it and pumping fresh water on the buttons DESERVES for it to flood! I've seen every brand housing flood in a rinse tank......I NEVER leave my housing in a rinse tank.......

In 40 years of using UW housings I've seen them all and Ikelite will stand up to 99% of what a thinking diver / photographer can throw at it.

I've had dozens of friends / customers (and myself) back roll off a moving (in neutral) swim step while snorkeling with dolphins. All those folks had TWO port lock model not even the newest 4 port lock SLR housing. No one (including me) flooded their housing.

I've had sharks and other animals ram it, bite etc. and it didn't flood. I've used them under the ice, in pools with screaming kids and a whopping 1' of water pressure on it, survived diving out of bouncy pangas in Galapagos, 170' deep in Truk and more varied environments to count........

Yes, the standard "blank" with controls drilled and located for different models may not be as sexy or uber-ergonomic as some tout they need. But they help create wonderful photos in the right hands at a substantial savings.

Plus if you want TRUE TTL through your new camera's hot shoe then Ikelite is the only company with TTL circuitry connected to their DS (Digital Substrobe) models.

Don't take my word, go to the web site (IKELITE Underwater Systems) and look through the galleries. Or if on Facebook browse some of the astounding photos on the Ikelite Facebook page users send in from UW studio shooting to all manner of UW environments.

THE first successful UW coffee table book by Chris Newbert "Within a Rainbowed Sea" had tons of the images in it shot with an ancient Ikelite film housing. So did Michael Aw's first book or two plus lots of other working pros and talented amateur photographers.

Sorry for the rant, I'm just tired of BS here from people who don't / haven't / won't ever use the equipment they have an "opinion" about.

You can spend more $$$$$$ but your photos will never show it.......Do a search for the images I've shared on Scubaboard all shot with Ikelite housings.

Not bragging just stating facts......

Old Geezer UW photographer and yes, Ikelite DEALER and USER

David Haas
www.haasimages.com

 

[guyharrisonphoto]

Thanks David. Nice shots of Emma!! I was with her this July and that was one of the things inspiring me to seriously upgrade my system.

I don't worry about posts like the one above yours. I don't need to be told that a housing costing $2K more might be nicer, duh!

I have known many underwater pros and amateurs (including 2 on my shark trip) that use Ikelite, going back many years. I take care of my gear and I think the Ike is sturdy enough to handle anything typical. For about the price of the aluminium housing alone, I can have the Ike housing, tray and handles, ports for wide and macro, and an excellent 161 strobe, all ready to go, so that is a no-brainer for me.

That being said, have you had a d800 in the housing or had a chance to use it underwater?

 

[jdandvalerie]

Can't speak specifically for the D800, but I have had no issue with Ike housings (>1000 dives 2 housings).

I also enjoy when David speaks his mind!

 

[cbrich]

Thanks David. Nice shots of Emma!! I was with her this July and that was one of the things inspiring me to seriously upgrade my system.

I don't worry about posts like the one above yours. I don't need to be told that a housing costing $2K more might be nicer, duh!

I have known many underwater pros and amateurs (including 2 on my shark trip) that use Ikelite, going back many years. I take care of my gear and I think the Ike is sturdy enough to handle anything typical. For about the price of the aluminium housing alone, I can have the Ike housing, tray and handles, ports for wide and macro, and an excellent 161 strobe, all ready to go, so that is a no-brainer for me.

That being said, have you had a d800 in the housing or had a chance to use it underwater?

Looks like you came on there to start a flaming thread, when in the beginning you already had your mind made up on a Ikelite. I would not be surprised if you already own an Ikelite Housing for you D800.

 

[kidsdream]

Wow, you have never seen and Ike housing flood. Sorry buddy, I just don't believe that. And as you said any housing can flood and I have seen my share - and frankly I have seen more Ike's flood than any other Mid to high grade housing.

The ergonomics are not anywhere near what you can get with a machined alloy housing.

That said, it is the guy behind the lens that makes the difference. Any of course world class shots are possible with the housings Ike offers. and for the money they are a reasonable option, but just not the direction I would go.

Right now I would go with the an Aquatica or Nauticam DSLR (and these offer true TTL options using opital strobe control - but I am sure that you knew that).

Have a great day.

Jeff

What crap.............

I'm not a big fan of aluminum housings I can't see inside (do a search and find out how many of those flooded, in the rinse tank, port bayonetting off when the crew grabbed the port, etc.) and require more maintenance due to electrolysis of dissimilar metal fittings, no TTL flash control, etc.

Any housing can flood......

PS - Anyone who leaves ANY housing in a rinse tank not holding it and pumping fresh water on the buttons DESERVES for it to flood! I've seen every brand housing flood in a rinse tank......I NEVER leave my housing in a rinse tank.......

In 40 years of using UW housings I've seen them all and Ikelite will stand up to 99% of what a thinking diver / photographer can throw at it.

I've had dozens of friends / customers (and myself) back roll off a moving (in neutral) swim step while snorkeling with dolphins. All those folks had TWO port lock model not even the newest 4 port lock SLR housing. No one (including me) flooded their housing.

I've had sharks and other animals ram it, bite etc. and it didn't flood. I've used them under the ice, in pools with screaming kids and a whopping 1' of water pressure on it, survived diving out of bouncy pangas in Galapagos, 170' deep in Truk and more varied environments to count........

Yes, the standard "blank" with controls drilled and located for different models may not be as sexy or uber-ergonomic as some tout they need. But they help create wonderful photos in the right hands at a substantial savings.

Plus if you want TRUE TTL through your new camera's hot shoe then Ikelite is the only company with TTL circuitry connected to their DS (Digital Substrobe) models.

Don't take my word, go to the web site (IKELITE Underwater Systems) and look through the galleries. Or if on Facebook browse some of the astounding photos on the Ikelite Facebook page users send in from UW studio shooting to all manner of UW environments.

THE first successful UW coffee table book by Chris Newbert "Within a Rainbowed Sea" had tons of the images in it shot with an ancient Ikelite film housing. So did Michael Aw's first book or two plus lots of other working pros and talented amateur photographers.

Sorry for the rant, I'm just tired of BS here from people who don't / haven't / won't ever use the equipment they have an "opinion" about.

You can spend more $$$$$$ but your photos will never show it.......Do a search for the images I've shared on Scubaboard all shot with Ikelite housings.

Not bragging just stating facts......

Old Geezer UW photographer and yes, Ikelite DEALER and USER

David Haas
www.haasimages.com

 

[Fota]

I've had quite a few Ike housings, 5-6 for D-SLR and 3 for "advanced" compacts.
Used the Ike service alot.
Have 4 Ike strobes, have had more (but not at the same time), 161, 161, 50, 51.
I started with the fix port system and have totally converted to the modular port system.

My next uw-housing will probably be an Ike too. But, do I think their stuff or staff is perfect? NO!

Staff:

God
There are some really nice people at Ike. Especially at the repair/service department.
If you really are in a hurry, they will give your stuff priority. I hope not everyone abuses this.
If something "breaks/fails/etc" they usually either repair it for a low price or for free. Impressive!

Bad
* Being a very picky person, diving in tricky conditions (cold water, bad viz, thick glowes etc) and during the years the owner of tons of Ike equipments,
I have tons of ideas of improvements (some I have already implemented myself). Some
bigger and some smaller, but all would really improve their housings. Problem is that
Ike is not interested to hear about this.
* The people you get in touch with prior to service are not that "impressive"...


Stuff:

Strobes

True TTL via cable. Good and bad.
Cable breaks, connectors break. Yes, this happens to all Ike owners. They don't (never happend to me) leak though.
The cables can be in the way under water.
On the other hand, the TTL work pretty good (especially on macro/normal) and the large TTL/Manual compensation dial at the back of the housing is great.
In combination with DS 161 (etc), the recharge is super fast.
It doesn't use up the camera's battery.
Ike's strobe arms and clamps are crap, but there are tons of great arms and clamps from ULCS and others.


161 (etc)

Good
Strong
Fast
Reliable
Wide
Good aiming light (but I doubt that it is 500 lumens)
Watertight battery compartment

Bad
Heavy, a major drawback when traveling and when carrying. Also a problem as the strobe arms tend to fall down as the strobes are so heavy.
Big! Especially a drawback when shooting macro.

50/51

Good
Small
Light
AA batteries (I guess that is good...)
Watertight battery compartment

Bad
A tendency to leak... I have had 4 leaks, maybe it's me being clumpsy? but still...
Slow
Weak (mostly strong enough though)


UW-Housing

No, I do not think they leak more than others. I have had and seens so many uw-housings, and Ike housings do not leak more often. All housings can leak. No matter the brand.

The 4-port lock is really secure (even though I never had a leak with 2-lock, a friend of mine did, but he did not use the DOME lock). If you want to add every more security, you can use Ike DOME port lock or the great DOME port lock from UW camera stuff (which I use). When installed, there is simply no way in h-ll that the DOME will come off. UW camera stuff's DOME lock does not only make sure you wont turn the DOME, it also secure it from falling off (which, in theory, is impossible already due to the 4-port lock).

Good
Not that expensive!
The modular system supports tons of lenses. Not all though!
The 8" DOME is good and not "that" expensive.
The large TTL/Manual compensation dial at the back of the housing is super great.
Transparent!

Bad
The worst things:
- More or less impossible to do half press, at least with gloves. Really bad!
- The shutter lever is small. Why??
- Tricky to insert the camera and there is always the risk of hitting some unwanted buttons on the camera and the lens. You may also hit a control on the housing, bend it a little and have it leak.
Truly annoying!
- Really hard to disasemble the modules in the modular system. I hate this!!

Bad things I can live with:
While diving, some controls presses some unwanted "buttons/controls" on the camera, making it impossible to shoot. Could drive you mad from time to time. The problem is more apparant on some models. In general you can say that the more controls you have on your camera, the greater the risk. On my D200/D300/D300s I have alot of these problems. On my D7000 I had it initially, but now I seem to have figured out a good starting point for all controls on the housing.
No small DOME. There are some good third party options though (e.g. uwcamerastuff).
Controls wont reach camera buttons. On my D300 and D300s I have this alot. On my D7000 it works perfectly.
A friend of mine showed me his really nice new Nauticam uw-housing. But, it turned out that several of the the controls weren't align that good either... He had already had it on service once and still a few controls did not press corresponding buttons on the camera. So... ;-)
The modular system is heavy. No idea how much port weight on other systems though...
The buttons are "smooth". I mean their surface is smooth. Impossible to turn by using one finger, especially using gloves.
You can't tell by the look of any button, what position it is in. E.g. on some more expensive housings you can tell what aperture that is selected by just looking at the housing and knob.
No leak alarm. But there are several third party solutions.

 

[dhaas]

First Jeff (kidsdream),

Sure I've seen ikelite housings leak, and Aquatica, Subal, Sea and Sea, Sealife, Fantasea, etc. And I'd say 99% user error.........

Where you live (Michigan next to me in Ohio) and if you do diving deeper than 130' or so sure, many wreck / tech divers need 250' + depth capability. I'd be the first one to say past about 130' Ikelite buttons don't work that well.

But I have a few Aquatica users who will tell you how they lost photos at depth when their push buttons wouldn't come back leaving them as Fota says "in permanent push button / menu hell!!!!"

So it's personal choice and diving requirement that rule a system choice.

I don't think Guy came on as troll........I think he was looking to find information from anyone using Ikelite SLR housings for their Nikon D300, 7000, 700 and now 800. Or similar high end Canon 5D MK II and MKIII plus many more models for professional photos. Which they do

The only reason I went a bit of a rant is people blasting a lower priced but perfectly usable product with mis-information. Someone says "Ikelite's flood more!" as they've seen one on a trip somewhere. I (and others) could do the same about any brand and bash it........

That's all I meant and I DO support personal choice for any shooter.......Just don't try and convince the average tropical hobbyist shooter by spending 2 - 3X as much $$ on the HOUSING their photos will look like Nat Geo images.....As you agreed it's WAAAAAAYYYYYY more the shooter than the gear.

Fota's Ikelite summary is pretty spot on IMHO.........I have my insights and things I advise on how to best use any Ikelite product. This comes form experience ACTUALLY USING many different models.

My goal is (and has been for years as a dealer AND user) to help folks MAXIMIZE their photo possibilities in the brief time underwater

In the big scheme of things it's good we HAVE forums where folks can share information. I only ask people BACK IT UP........I'll never claim to be the world's greatest UW photographer but I sure see a lot of techno-babble on here by folks who NEVER post any decent pics......Or post absolute OOF (out of focus) crap exposure shots. That's distressing........

I truly want all who take up UW photography to enjoy it and come back from dives with images they're happy with.

YMMV

David Haas
www.haasimages.com