Inon Z-240 Issue with TTL
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OP
rjsimp
Contributor
froop:
Yes in those shots I was using both strobes. The strobes are don't doing a full dump, they are sending just a constant flash and that is why 2.8 is over exposed and 8 is a little under. 5.6 is about right for the power that is being sent out. That is what is stupid, something is telling it to only send out that much flash, but whatever is going on, it is not varying with camera settings (changing aperture or on camera EV settings).
I have also tried with just one strobe and a different sync cord. Although only one side of the picture is way over exposed then.
OP
rjsimp
Contributor
Larry C:
I agree Larry, it is advertised as having STTL AND TTL (nikonos style). So, if that turns out to be wrong and it only really has this STTL which is through an optical sync, then I'll be a bit p'd.
I can definitely verify that the YS-90 Auto Duo works in TTL perfectly with the camera.
OP
rjsimp
Contributor
Thanks everyone for helping me troubleshoot this problem. I appreciate the efforts of everyone and please keep the ideas coming!
Wolverine,
Yes the camera is on TTL (as evidenced by the YS-90 shots and even test shots with the camera outside the housing).
Thanks for the link, I already found the same link, but it is helpful to at least verify that you are doing things "right" according to the docs.
I tried the strobe in the 12'oclock position, but there wasn't any noticable difference in how it worked. The only way I can vary the power is in Manual + TTL, but then it tops out in the same spot as normal TTL mode and the F8 is still under exposed as you turn the dial up to even full power. You are able to fix the f2.8 by turning the dial down all the way but that is the manual part of it at that point and not the TTL side of things.
Wolverine,
Yes the camera is on TTL (as evidenced by the YS-90 shots and even test shots with the camera outside the housing).
Thanks for the link, I already found the same link, but it is helpful to at least verify that you are doing things "right" according to the docs.
I tried the strobe in the 12'oclock position, but there wasn't any noticable difference in how it worked. The only way I can vary the power is in Manual + TTL, but then it tops out in the same spot as normal TTL mode and the F8 is still under exposed as you turn the dial up to even full power. You are able to fix the f2.8 by turning the dial down all the way but that is the manual part of it at that point and not the TTL side of things.
Hmm.. this worries me abit too. I've been looking to buy heinrich adapter (one that fits olympus bulkhead) and z-240. Has anyone else faced the same problems trying to get it ttl sync? I wouldn't want to spend those bucks just to see that it ain't working...
Me keeps checking this thread constantly
Me keeps checking this thread constantly
stiebs
Contributor
The manual for the Z-240 is certainly not the easiest reading. It makes it even worse because of all the different modes the strobe can operate in, and even more difficult again because the control knobs all do different things depending on how the strobe is being used.
For an optical connection, S-TTL mimics the camera's internal strobe, but when a cable is connected, it indicates TTL use. But the ACC (Advanced cancel circuit) also needs to be turned OFF by pressing down one of the other knobs. (That knob also enables/disables pre-flash when used with an optical connection).
Rich, I know this may sound silly, but have you made sure to screw the black cap over the optical cable connection? The manual says that when using the cable connection, any light detected on the optical trigger may interfere with exposure -and likely even more so if you are using two strobes.
For an optical connection, S-TTL mimics the camera's internal strobe, but when a cable is connected, it indicates TTL use. But the ACC (Advanced cancel circuit) also needs to be turned OFF by pressing down one of the other knobs. (That knob also enables/disables pre-flash when used with an optical connection).
Rich, I know this may sound silly, but have you made sure to screw the black cap over the optical cable connection? The manual says that when using the cable connection, any light detected on the optical trigger may interfere with exposure -and likely even more so if you are using two strobes.
OP
rjsimp
Contributor
Froop,
Not a silly question, but yes I have the caps on. I have for grins done it without the caps, but yes they are on and were on for all my test shots..
Everyone,
Did some more playing around..
Okay on the flashe's Auto mode (the flash is determining the light output) everything looks very good.. Adjusts well and exposes very nice. This isn't the solution though, just wanted to share that the strobes power does vary in other settings.
In TTL, the "green" indicator on the LED light shows after the stobe is fired saying that it thinks it got the exposure right. When I was playing with it this morning though, there was a point where it appeared to be working somewhat but I was on a distant subject, so then I thought, well lets try on a close subject and it seemed to work until I changed the switch to Manual + TTL to try something, then went back to the normal TTL.. then it wouldn't work the way it was just prior even though the green "exposure correct" LED lit up.
I'm thinking there is something fishy with the TTL communication going on with these strobes and the heinrichs TTL adapter. much too fragile to say it would be workable (if you can even get it to work).
What DOES work is the Auto mode (glorified manual with some exposure control), and pure manual. TTL and Manual + TTL are still up in the air..
Not a silly question, but yes I have the caps on. I have for grins done it without the caps, but yes they are on and were on for all my test shots..
Everyone,
Did some more playing around..
Okay on the flashe's Auto mode (the flash is determining the light output) everything looks very good.. Adjusts well and exposes very nice. This isn't the solution though, just wanted to share that the strobes power does vary in other settings.
In TTL, the "green" indicator on the LED light shows after the stobe is fired saying that it thinks it got the exposure right. When I was playing with it this morning though, there was a point where it appeared to be working somewhat but I was on a distant subject, so then I thought, well lets try on a close subject and it seemed to work until I changed the switch to Manual + TTL to try something, then went back to the normal TTL.. then it wouldn't work the way it was just prior even though the green "exposure correct" LED lit up.
I'm thinking there is something fishy with the TTL communication going on with these strobes and the heinrichs TTL adapter. much too fragile to say it would be workable (if you can even get it to work).
What DOES work is the Auto mode (glorified manual with some exposure control), and pure manual. TTL and Manual + TTL are still up in the air..
OP
rjsimp
Contributor
Okay.. I picked up my backup D200 body today (since my other one is still out for service) and I hooked it up to the Z240 strobe.
I have some good news and some bad news.. First the good news.. The TTL seems to work as expected with the Sea & Sea TTL converter and my Subal housing. All these images were taken on a fairly distant object that I focused and metered on the bottle. I then cropped the picture to the bottle since that was what really mattered for exposure. I could definitely hear the difference in the strobes power and see the difference when shooting each shot with this setup unlike when I tried it on the sp-350.
F22
F11
F3.5
The Bad news is, the SP-350 and the heinrichs adapter does not seem to work properly with the Inon Z-240 strobes and I wouldn't reccomend it unless you wanted to just shoot using the on strobe Auto mode or the manual mode. This is contrary to what the docs and heinrichs' site say, but it is what it is. The Sea & Sea YS-110 strobes that just came out may work, and I know the YS-90 Auto Duo strobes work with it though.
I have some good news and some bad news.. First the good news.. The TTL seems to work as expected with the Sea & Sea TTL converter and my Subal housing. All these images were taken on a fairly distant object that I focused and metered on the bottle. I then cropped the picture to the bottle since that was what really mattered for exposure. I could definitely hear the difference in the strobes power and see the difference when shooting each shot with this setup unlike when I tried it on the sp-350.
F22
F11
F3.5
The Bad news is, the SP-350 and the heinrichs adapter does not seem to work properly with the Inon Z-240 strobes and I wouldn't reccomend it unless you wanted to just shoot using the on strobe Auto mode or the manual mode. This is contrary to what the docs and heinrichs' site say, but it is what it is. The Sea & Sea YS-110 strobes that just came out may work, and I know the YS-90 Auto Duo strobes work with it though.
stiebs
Contributor
Very interesting findings. Have you spoken to the guys at Heinrichs? They were very helpful when I was trying to get TTL working with my Pentax. Which may sorto f tie in...
With Christian Weikamp's (from Heinrichsweikamp) help I put together a small circuit which in theory should have inverted the Pentax TTL signal to be compatible with the Nikonos signal so it would work with the Inon.
When I put it all together, it didn't work. It always gave a full dump, an occassionally the green light went on. I put it down to the circuit not working, and gave up. But it may also have been the something with strobe contributing too..
With Christian Weikamp's (from Heinrichsweikamp) help I put together a small circuit which in theory should have inverted the Pentax TTL signal to be compatible with the Nikonos signal so it would work with the Inon.
When I put it all together, it didn't work. It always gave a full dump, an occassionally the green light went on. I put it down to the circuit not working, and gave up. But it may also have been the something with strobe contributing too..
OP
rjsimp
Contributor
Froop,
No,I have not contacted them yet. It was late today when I verified I could get something to work. Even though it isn't as good as true iTTL and the SB-800, it is definitely metering and the camera is controlling the exposure length of the strobe. MUCH better than the blow outs I was getting with the SP-350.
I will usually shoot manual, but I wanted to make sure the TTL was there if I needed to shoot something quick and didn't have time to take 2 or 3 shots to get the exposure the way I wanted.. at least with this, I should be able to get something decent since I would probably never shoot the wide open setting anyhow, the other settings looked pretty good just a little hot on the surrounding items which is probably because the strobe is so dang strong and the less than perfect TTL.
No,I have not contacted them yet. It was late today when I verified I could get something to work. Even though it isn't as good as true iTTL and the SB-800, it is definitely metering and the camera is controlling the exposure length of the strobe. MUCH better than the blow outs I was getting with the SP-350.
I will usually shoot manual, but I wanted to make sure the TTL was there if I needed to shoot something quick and didn't have time to take 2 or 3 shots to get the exposure the way I wanted.. at least with this, I should be able to get something decent since I would probably never shoot the wide open setting anyhow, the other settings looked pretty good just a little hot on the surrounding items which is probably because the strobe is so dang strong and the less than perfect TTL.
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