LocLine Arms

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

mdmbike to scuba

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
223
Reaction score
0
Location
Hawaii
# of dives
200 - 499
Guys, need some help any way to make locline arms a little stronger? Im using them with my TL50 lights and they keep moving. Now they are not moving alot but enough to make it a pain. Ive thought over using a bike tube over them to make it stronger. Thoughts any body..... Trip is next week:confused:...... Mark
 
That should work, Sealife does something similar with their SL960 strobe setup:
Flexible, rubberized arm for....

I think I've also read about someone filling them with silicone sealer. But that's probably going to restrict the range of motion quite a bit.
 
I did a pool test and the arms keep moving on me. I really didnt think that this would happen because the battery is not in the lights. Good thing for pool testing. My plan now is to use a mountain bike tube and slip it over the arms. Next I would use a wire tie to keep the top and bottem extra snug. What do you think? Mark
 
Sure why not? Just don't ever open the housing with the tubes near the back since it'll probably retain water and you don't want it dripping on your shiny A1...

I had another thought, what about cutting two lengths of thickwalled plastic tubing and inserting it inside the locline? Lowe's probably has it.
 
Good call I just might try that. Thanks Steve Next issue is buoyancy it need some......Mark
 
The buoyancy problem was the reason I made the fiberglass coated foam block to attach to the top of my housing. Turned out looking good (but it was a bit of a project), and I'll be testing it mid-October in the FL Keys (weather permitting).

Vic
 
Video rookie I hear you on that one. My housing is heavy and need some help. Just dont have enough time to do what you did on this trip. But I like it. I just need a fast idea for this trip. Should have started this sooner......Mark
 
Here is a hint for floatation foam- look in the local yellow pages online for "Foam Fabricators" in your area and ask them if they have any scrap of a 2 lb density closed cell polyethylene (used in packaging but is very water resistant), 2 lb bun stock cross linked polyethylene (used in life jackets, PFD's etc.), or extruded polyethylene (pool noodle material). All of these have an absorption rate of less than .5%, will not support mold or mildew growth, and have very positive buoyancy. Tell them you are working on a prototype for an aquatics device. They will ususally give you scrap samples which are enough for your requirements.

They may want details of the project. Just tell them its proprietary for now and still in development. Foam guys are usually easy (I am one). If you are in So Cal, PM me and I'll hook you up.
 
Some foam will compress at depth and lose most of it's buoyancy. I think the most popular ways people have been adding buoyancy are closed cell foams and enclosed PVC pipes. I believe the swim noodles that Steve recommended are closed cell, so they should work well if you can cut them into a shape that works with your system.

There are a few people using empty water bottles with success. They fill them with air at depth by either blowing into them or using their octo.
 

Back
Top Bottom