My Potential Configuration

[JohnVranesevich]

Greetings:

Well, I'm about to blow a few thousand bucks. Hey, the hell, it's only money, right?

I'm recently certified, but have spent over a year reading these forums, dive magazines, and books on the subject. So, I know just enough to be dangerous to myself and all of those submerged around me.

I do know that I absolutely despise the idea of rental gear, and want all of my own stuff ASAP. I like the idea of having my own configuration, that I know won't change unless I'm the one that changes it. I also like to know that I'm the one responsible for it, and know it's history, etc. etc.

So, here's what I'm looking at buying. I've read people's advice on gear, etc. etc. but want to make sure that everything that I have chosen will play nice together, etc. etc.

I already have my skin, wet suite (3:2) and fins (full fin with vents, kind of a combo full + split fin, very nice), mask and snorkel. Have dove with them all and am happy.

Here's the stuff that I'm looking to buy:

1. Suunto Vytec dive computer with wireless air integration
2. Atomic B2 Regulator
3. 2 80cuFt Aluminum Tanks (brushed alum in color)
4. Ocean Master Beta Titanium Package (Dive Knife)
5. Aqua Lung Fusion BC

I'll have my emergency air supply integrated into the low inflation for the BC, so in case of an OOA, I'd donate my primary regulator to my buddy, and breath off of it. It was something that I got to practice in class, as it's the setup that all of the instructors at the LDS use. Having an octopus is really just an unnecessary extra hose, and piece of crap attached to you, I think. Seems to be the opinion of all of my instructors, too (who all have several thousand dives under their belts)

So, I will only have 2 hoses in my set up, one really short one leading to the BC, and then the one going to my regulator. That really appeals to me....

 

[Karl_in_Calif]

Aluminum tanks are not great for shore diving. If you plan to shore dive, you may be happier with Faber steel 72s. Then you could carry less lead weight on your belt or integrated B/C.

If you cannot afford Fabers, then used steel 72s might still be a better option.

Here is the reasoning behind steel tanks. They tend to be neutral or slightly negative empty, and may therefore partially account for the natural buoyancy a diver's body has, from adipose and from a full breath of air.

Aluminum tanks are popular with rentals and boats because they are cheap and easy to maintain. And its a short walk from the bench to the bow on a boat even though you are loaded down with lead weights to compensate for the aluminum tank's positive buoyancy. But I would not buy one.

 

[JohnVranesevich]

Greetings:

Yeah, money doesn't really matter here. I set aside a nice nest egg for my equipment + trips.

The main reason I didn't go steel is because I'd have to use the DIN system, and the b2 regulator only has a yoke first stage. So, I would have to get an adapter.

I'm not sure how comfortable I am with the idea of an "adapter" on my first stage. Am I being paranoid here, is it not a big deal?

I just think of how generally crappy everything is that I have here on dry land that requires an adapter. "adapters" just seem to equal "piece meal" or "jerry rigged", haha. Might not be the case here though...

 

[Scubaroo]

JohnVranesevich once bubbled...
The main reason I didn't go steel is because I'd have to use the DIN system, and the b2 regulator only has a yolk first stage. So, I would have to get an adapter.

Not true - you would only need to go DIN if you bought high pressure steel tanks. Pressed Steel tanks would be an excellent choice - especially the LP80 (or E7-100) size. Weighs less on land than an AL80, which is only a true 77.4cf capacity - you should be able to find the PST tanks on special somewhere in Florida! I've seen them advertised for $150 or less on sale. Slightly more expensive than an AL80, but well worth the small investment in the long run. Your tank will weigh less, and your weightbelt will weigh less. And they come with either a yoke valve, or yoke/DIN convertable valve.

Buying your own tanks and regulators though is a perfect opportunity to go DIN however. Lots of divers prefer it, however it's not a necessity for recreational diving.

Surely the Atomics are available in DIN? Sure it's not just your LDS trying to unload yoke regulators they have in stock?

Also - hoseless AI is not failproof - eventually you're going to have to can a dive because of transmitter problems. I have the Vytec and transmitter, but still dive with a backup SPG. A flat battery in your transmitter would really ruin your day.

 

[Karl_in_Calif]

Faber has those dual-use valves that can be yoke or DIN. Your choice. End of problem.

Go with Faber steel tanks then, if you can afford them. You will love them.

 

[Karl_in_Calif]

I forgot that yoke even existed.

You should take a serious look at DIN valves and regulators. Almost any regulator can be converted to a DIN from a yoke.

DIN = Deutsche Industrie Normal

The Germans took one look at yoke valves and said "nein nein nein dass geht nicht!!!" and then invented the DIN. It is superb.

Tinker tailor soldier spy. The Germans are great at perfecting things. As in BMW, Mercedes Benz, Messerschmidt, etc.

 

[Karl_in_Calif]

It is nice to have a backup dive computer of some sort.

Very popular and relatively inexpensive at $150 to $200 is the UWATEC bottom timer. Wear it next to your dive computer, and you will always see 2 readouts confirming each other. Why be buddy dependent??

 

[JohnVranesevich]

Greetings:

Won't they both have different dive tables programmed into each of them, so basically, they'd both be contradicting each other at all times? I thought that the Suunto devices use proprietary tables?

 

[ChrisM]

Congrats on wanting to get your own gear. I started out with AL tanks, now use Steel LP 80s for the beach. THe Steels rock on the beach, but the 80s work fine too.

Here's my big concern:

I'll have my emergency air supply integrated into the low inflation for the BC, so in case of an OOA, I'd donate my primary regulator to my buddy, and breath off of it. It was something that I got to practive in class, as it's the setup that all of the instructors at the LDS use. Having an octopus is really just an unnecessary extra hose, and piece of crap attached to you, I think. Seems to be the opinion of all of my instructors, too (who all have several thousand dives under their belts)

OK, let me say that this is all my humble opinion, my only goal here is to get you to think about WHY you are using a piece of gear......

To start, take a look at this post over on Rodale's, it puts all the arguments against an air 2 type device in a summary fashion, should be required reading: Air 2 Points to Ponder

This debate goes on all the time.

You have listed 3 reasons to have the integrated octo:
1. The LDS instructor used it.
2. Octos are pieces of crap attached to you
3. One less hose.


As for number one, I can only let you be the judge of that.

As for number two, you are correct, the way octos are traditionally atached is ****. I even considered an Air 2 when I first bought for this reason. The octo was always coming out of the holder, or forming a big loop, just getting in the way. Until I figured out an alternate and better way for me, which was to bungee the backup., I'm not here to sell you on that configuration, just letting you know the direction I took. And think about the performance characteristics between a true octo and an integrated octo. It solves a non-existent problem.

As for number 3, come on. You really think you are going to notice a difference between two and three hoses as far as drag goes (said with all due respect)? I know your instructor probably said it's gonna reduce drag and improve air consumption..... they all do....

Unless you're going for the underwater speed record, I think not. There are a lot of other ways to reduce drag. I just don't see the balance - getting rid of one hose and gaining lots of additional task loading when someone is on the verge of drowning......

At any rate, if after reading the linkl and considering all of the options, and the consequences of those choices, you still decide an Air 2 is the way to go, more power to you. Just that the reasons givn above are a little slim, IMHO.

And, if you are considering one that does not have a Y connector allowing you to disconnect the LP inflator without disconnecting the alternate, a little story. Friend of mine diving in a drysuit in Redondo Canyon, at about 80 fsw. Drysuit inflator sticks open, starts filling up. Has to dump madly from both drysuit and bc as he starts rising. Has to keep LP inflator straight up to control ascent. Buddy suddently comes up out of air............

Why make it more difficult?

 

[JohnVranesevich]

Greetings:

Well, I never thought about the air-2 as significant additional task loading incase of an OOA before.

Really, from my limited experience, I know that the Octo, at least in the configs of the gear that I was renting, was SIGNIFICANT task loading in non-emergency diving. It constantly coming un-done required me to constantly re-attach it, which distracted me from my environment, my buddy, and all of the reefs (my whole reason for diving in the first place).

Plus, the hoses seem to be long, with a nice big loop, yet another appendage that I constantly had to be aware of, and worry about getting caught on something (not only a potential safety hazard, but a hazard to the delicate reef environment as well).

So I don't know, I guess I will have to think about this some more now.

Thanks.