I am new to underwater photography and I have decided on the S90 with a Ikelite housing and an Inon strobe. I just can't decide on which one the S2000 or the D2000? Any advantages to the D2000 that can be used with the S90? Will the D2000 be too bulky for the S90+Ike's small size? I am going with a ultralight tray,grip, and arm. Any suggestions on the arm length? I was told to go with a 5" and 8" arm setup. does this sound about right?
S90 with Ike- Which Inon strobe?
- Thread starter Citra
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
scottfiji
Contributor
The D2000 has a modeling light and external-auto mode. It will not be too bulky.
Regarding arms, - 5" and 8" or 6" and 8" is what I usually recommend for a dSLR, you want 2 arms but for a small camera like the s90 you might be better off with 2 5" arms.
Regarding arms, - 5" and 8" or 6" and 8" is what I usually recommend for a dSLR, you want 2 arms but for a small camera like the s90 you might be better off with 2 5" arms.
One other minor difference is the D2000 can be stopped down one step lower than the S2000, in addition to the other points. (13 steps, 20 down to 2.5, vs 12 steps, 20 down to 3.0 for the S2000). Also the S2000 is about 50% heavier underwater than the D2000, since it displaces less water. Not a problem in most cases, just a difference.
I agree it's not likely a problem to use the bigger strobe with the S90.
I agree it's not likely a problem to use the bigger strobe with the S90.
Would it be better to use the external-auto mode for the S-90 or the S-TTL mode?
Are you saying that I should use 2 arms just smaller 2-5"? or just 1 arm (what size)? It doesn't matter to me. I want a fairly compact setup. Do I need the flexabilty of two arms?
Are you saying that I should use 2 arms just smaller 2-5"? or just 1 arm (what size)? It doesn't matter to me. I want a fairly compact setup. Do I need the flexabilty of two arms?
I would suggest going with 2 of the ULCS DB-05 arms. That is the ideal set up for a compact camera like this...mounted onto a ULCS Digital tray and handle with ball.
Personally, I really like the S-2000 and would go that route for your camera.
Personally, I really like the S-2000 and would go that route for your camera.
Choyster
Contributor
I use DIY arms I made from loc-line modular hose (ModularHose.com - Loc-Line Modular Hose System), a couple of stainless steel bolts, a plastic knob, and some waterproof epoxy. I think I spent around $10 total.
Also, in retrospect, rather than buy a tray for $50, I would have just bought a large stainless steel L-bracket from the hardware store for $2 and slipped a bicycle grip down one side to use as a handle.
Finally, one thing to note with the Ike housing is that it uses 2 12/24 screws to attach to the tray vs. the standard 1/4 screw that most housing/tripods/etc. use.
Also, in retrospect, rather than buy a tray for $50, I would have just bought a large stainless steel L-bracket from the hardware store for $2 and slipped a bicycle grip down one side to use as a handle.
Finally, one thing to note with the Ike housing is that it uses 2 12/24 screws to attach to the tray vs. the standard 1/4 screw that most housing/tripods/etc. use.
Simply an opinion, no more than that, I really like shooting my 570 this way and dry testing thus far indicates it will do even better with the S90:
Camera set to Av
Camera flash set to manual under Menu and under Func Set 1/3 power
Camera, turn off IS except when shooting, turn off all overrides, red eye, turn all that junk off
Camera, turn flash to ON or Forced
Inon D2000, set to Auto (External Auto)
Inon, install magnet
Match camera f stop to power knob, f stop knob on D2000
Set strobe for near subject, set camera f stop for background and open water exposure from meter
Shoot pic, take to bank, if need to compensate exposure, adjust dial the strobe f stop up or down a bit.
This configuration also allows you to quickly shift to natural light or flash fill, to go to natural light simply turn the camera flash OFF and shoot away, the D2000 will simply sit their waiting for the optical signal which it will not get until you turn the camera flash back to ON.
I don't much use the sTTL mode, it seems to work best for macro and closeup work, the External Auto mode seems to do better for me shooting normal to wide angle.
The D2000 balances well with the S90, especially by the time I install dome lenses. The D2000 is a very compact strobe, so now it is the second smallest instead of the smallest, and it offers more capability.
Just an opinion and nothing more, the S2000 would be a good choice also, just depends on what you do, if you shoot in manual a lot or plan to use the sTTL------.
There are several ways to set up and multiple ways within each method to set exposures etc. This is just one that seems to work well for me. At least I can sorta tell what it was I shot.
I plan to use a single six inch arm per strobe. If I shoot dual D2000s then each will get a single six or eight inch arm. Just my thought now, I have never used multiple arms, but, I don't do the macro thing much (like none) so maybe that is why.
Yes, the Ikelite uses the somewhat hard to find 12X24 screws instead of easy to find 1/4X20. Why? Well, beats me but they do.
I have tried this also with the S90 in test shots and it works with my other Canon A570 series cameras, should work with my S90:
Camera set to Program
S90 set ring control to +/- (use to expose background as you desire)
Set camera flash to ON/Forced
Inon S/D2000 set to sTTL
In sTTL the magnetic switch on the D/S2000 is overridden I believe and the strobes should still sync because in Program the Manual and 1/3 setting is overridden also and the camera emits a preflash and the Inon set in sTTL expects that preflash and uses it to squelch/trick the camera into firing a reduced strobe output, the D/S2000 makes up for it, trust me.
I believe that is right, whew!
Any suggested setup from anyone should be tested for your requirements and functionality.
N
anferney
Contributor
I was under the impression that the S90 did not perform TTL in Program mode, which basically means that the S-TTL functionality of my S2000 strobes is useless. The S2000 does not support external auto, so I'd need to upgrade my strobes to D2000 or Z240 if I want automatic strobe control.
Anyone know for sure? I cancelled the S90 idea for now because I don't want to manually control the output from my strobes (or buy 2x new strobes) so if i'm wrong I'd really like to know...
sTTL means "simulated" TTL. Yes, it works best I can tell. I am still trying to figure the Auto vs Program on the mode dial on this S90 camera.
The way sTTL works is that the camera fires a preflash in Program/Auto mode which the camera then uses to judge exposure requirements. The Inon strobe set in sTTL mode is waiting for that preflash and fires one much larger. This fools the S90 camera into thinking that the scene does not require very much strobe output--but--the Inon D/S2000 knows better. This reduces power consumption of the onboard camera flash considerably. The camera then fires a much weaker main flash for exposure and the Inon D/S2000 provides a flash of the correct intensity providing--hopefully--a properly exposed pic. You can vary power by turning the Inon knob up and down (for subject) and also by turning the S90 ring control +/- (for back ground).
Yes, it works very well, especially for close up and macro which I hardly do but have fooled around with a bit. This is right out of the Inon Basic Manual.
N
The way sTTL works is that the camera fires a preflash in Program/Auto mode which the camera then uses to judge exposure requirements. The Inon strobe set in sTTL mode is waiting for that preflash and fires one much larger. This fools the S90 camera into thinking that the scene does not require very much strobe output--but--the Inon D/S2000 knows better. This reduces power consumption of the onboard camera flash considerably. The camera then fires a much weaker main flash for exposure and the Inon D/S2000 provides a flash of the correct intensity providing--hopefully--a properly exposed pic. You can vary power by turning the Inon knob up and down (for subject) and also by turning the S90 ring control +/- (for back ground).
Yes, it works very well, especially for close up and macro which I hardly do but have fooled around with a bit. This is right out of the Inon Basic Manual.
N
