Question Scubapro DIN Conversion - to DIY or not to DIY?

[NW Dive Dawg]

For my Apeks ATX-200...... I am always on DIN here at home. For travel, and depending on destination, I switch back and forth between DIN and Yolk often..... and never used a torque wrench and never had any issues. Just "snug" and go. Maybe I need to rethink that?

 

[kammel78]

For my Apeks ATX-200...... I am always on DIN here at home. For travel, and depending on destination, I switch back and forth between DIN and Yolk often..... and never used a torque wrench and never had any issues. Just "snug" and go. Maybe I need to rethink that?

Torque wrenches are fairly cheap and have lots of other uses. I don't know the Apeks spec but the SP spec on the main DIN retainer is quite a bit more than "snug".

 

[pisauron]

You will need an adjustable wrench and that's about it.

 

[Hungcyon]

I am pretty sure if you order the part from your LDS they'd be willing to throw it on for free

 

[Bigbella]

For my Apeks ATX-200...... I am always on DIN here at home. For travel, and depending on destination, I switch back and forth between DIN and Yolk often..... and never used a torque wrench and never had any issues. Just "snug" and go. Maybe I need to rethink that?

I would definitely rethink that, having known a few techs who swore that they could get to manufacturer's specs without the use of torque wrenches, even though the shops had them, right there on the rack -- and challenged three to do just that, years ago.

If I recall, one was under about 6 Nm, prone to loosening -- and the other two were over about 11 Nm. Of the three, I was more concerned with the over-torquing, since brass is a great heatsink, but is notoriously soft and easily prone to damage.

On occasion, I can get fairly close, but I am not willing to roll those dice -- and verify with a torque wrench . . .

 

[Pearlman]

It is fairly easy to do but that socket is a must if you don't want to mar it all up. I purchased mine from scubatools.com. 1" Yoke Nut Socket

In some places the 25mm socket is the one recommended for Scubapro Yoke regs while at other places the 1” socket is (or 25.4mm to be precise - will either socket fit snug?

1. Without slippage if the Scubapro yoke actually requires 25mm and not 25.4?
2. If the yoke is actually 25.4 will using a 25mm strip-off the chrome plating?

I use DIN so I can’t actually measure using my vernier, but hopefully the mechanically inclined amongst you can tell for sure… ?

I ordered the 25mm as a standard part of my toolkit and now I am worried…(thin walled sockets are hard to find locally).

PS : Also to note that the sockets specifically designed for servicing scuba regs are thin walled to enable slotting it in correctly so the standard market tools with thicker walls may not work unless you slot it in less than 100% from the top…

 

[Pearlman]

Just found this clever hack for removing A-Clamps with just a spanner and without the thin-walled sockets. If anyone wants to try -


Edit - Just realised : However there’s a catch! When rebuilding the reg you need a torque wrench with specific toque settings and this hack won’t let you do that.

 

[Jens Bölte]

Hello,

The DIN and yoke connections must be tightened to 20 Nm for Apeks 1st stages, figures taken from the Black Sapphire manual, and 30 Nm for Scubapro 1st stages, figures taken from various Scubapro manuals.

Best wishes Jens

 

[Pearlman]

—deleted— my mistske

 

[Tanks A Lot]

In some places the 25mm socket is the one recommended for Scubapro Yoke regs while at other places the 1” socket is (or 25.4mm to be precise - will either socket fit snug?

1. Without slippage if the Scubapro yoke actually requires 25mm and not 25.4?
2. If the yoke is actually 25.4 will using a 25mm strip-off the chrome plating?

I use DIN so I can’t actually measure using my vernier, but hopefully the mechanically inclined amongst you can tell for sure… ?

I ordered the 25mm as a standard part of my toolkit and now I am worried…(thin walled sockets are hard to find locally).

PS : Also to note that the sockets specifically designed for servicing scuba regs are thin walled to enable slotting it in correctly so the standard market tools with thicker walls may not work unless you slot it in less than 100% from the top…

I did have a conversation with Lieven a while ago about this. I got confused as the ScubaPro dealer portal shows a 26mm nut which is completely wrong.

Please do not use a 26 (or proper 1" socket). These fits are really sloppy and WILL eventually damage the yoke nut but rounding the corners especially if corroded in place or previously overtightened.

The 1" is refered to in the old manuals and these are not really applicable any more (unless for very old units) and of course the MK19EVO contradicts this statement

All current manuals state part number 43.191.107. I measured the original one and accross the flats it is 25.4 mm - 1" however, this will NOT fit if the yoke nuts measured 1" accross the flats. All yoke nuts of Scubapro I measured are >= 25mm.

Just some useless engineering date RE hex nuts and sockets / spanners.

• a 25mm spanner / socket class 1 should measure +0.06 t0 +0.36 mm over the nominal size (class 2 would be +0.06 to +0.46)
• a 1" spanner / socket should be between 1.006 and 1.015" or 25.55 and 25.78 mm
• the hex nut itself should never exceed the nominal size: e.g. 25mm is MAX 25mm across the flats

As you can see from the data above, the SP origina socket is a sloppy class 2 25mm socket and doesn't meet the specs for a proper 1" socket (too small).

Long story short, the 25mm is in most cases the correct nut to use with regards to ScubaPro.