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I think a snorkel should have three things: a flex hose, a diameter equal to your finger, and a purge valve. These features are present in most snorkels that cost about $25.00. There should be no issue with a purge valve working- it is a simple little one way valve that usually consists of a thin flap or rubber. It sounds to me like the op has a faulty piece of equipment. As far as the performance of the splash guard, I am not big on those or on float valves either, because they can stick. If conditions are so rough that water down the snorkel tube is an issue, then I agree with those above who say go to your regulator.
DivemasterDennis
Everytime I have used a flex hose snorkel in rough water, it has been hard to prevent it from flopping into bad positions that will allow it to tip into the water and have me sucking water in.
Are you saying this happens when the snorkel mouthpiece is in your mouth? I'm having trouble imagining how mine would flop around at all, if I'm holding the mouthpiece in my mouth.
But if we're talking about long (1000 yards) surface swim, wouldn't a flex hose and standard bore (vs large bore) snorkel be inefficient?
While it is true that for typical snorkeling ( when not swimming with Whalesharks) you do not want to exert.....and in fact, are trying to maintain a low heart rate and breathing rate....one of the goals of snorkeling, is to be able to do a drop --whether to 12 feet, 25 feet, or 60 to 90 or so, depending on how much you have learned about the skills involved and on what you have an interest in seeing. The reality is, there is very little physical fitness required to do a 60 foot drop....but there is a real skill level--there are several tricks you need to know, and without them, you wont find this easy to accomplish....This is another place I would like to put the average Scuba dive instructor through....let them show if they can do a 30 foot drop, or a 60, or a 90 foot drop, and be able to do at least a minute or so of duration. If they can't do 50 or 60 feet, they don't have the basic skills --they don't know proper propulsion, they don't know the techniques, they have not learned enough about proper buoyancy control, etc...If they can't do this, they DONT KNOW ENOUGH TO TEACH A STUDENT HOW TO SNORKEL!!! I would argue, that once you can easily do 60 foot deep drops, you have picked up enough skills and abilities, that should you desire to do a 1500 yard surface snorkel though very rough water, it would be incredibly easy for you, if compared to your evil twin with only the snorkel skills of the typical scuba instructor.A smaller cross section and a corrugated wall will certainly offer more resistance than a large cross section and a smooth wall, but does it matter? The trachea has a cross section of about 0.4 square inches, very nearly equivalent to a round snorkel with a diameter of 5/8". It's also lined with sticky mucous and lots of cilia. Since a volume of air equal to the volume of the trachea and snorkel won't be exchanged when you breathe, I expect that any reduction in resistance with a larger snorkel is offset by the reduced air exchange. Maybe it matters when you're competing in snorkeling races, but I need a very strong motivation to bother swimming that fast.
Two more considerations that probably don't matter: For a given cross sectional area there should be less resistance with a round tube than with any other shape. The round tube will create more drag through the water than an oval cross section.
If they can't do this, they DONT KNOW ENOUGH TO TEACH A STUDENT HOW TO SNORKEL!!!
If they were presenting themselves as snorkel instructors, I can see this being a problem. For SCUBA instructors I don't see the issue.