Some Pics I took this weekend... Canon S80

[ocrmaster]

no problem dennis.

 

[SharkLover]

Ocrmaster,

These are very nice. I can't wait to get my S80 UW,
BTW: Can you share the settings with me?

I have been spending a great deal of time in Program mode as I like the adjustability. Did you take any pics in UW mode?
At this point I have not spent much time in manual mode as I am trying to learn one thing at a time.

BTW: Are you using a weight with your Ikelite housing?

Thanks much, Dave

First Dive with my Canon S80 with Canon Housing. No strobe yet.
Most likely I will be getting a ikelite strobe.



Please click the image below to see the Fullsize image.
Warning Huge Filesize... much detail.


Can you See Me???

Stone Fish


click image to make it bigger.


up close and personal


Clown Fish


Worm


Crown of Thorns


Sea Vegitation.


Tubes


Clown Fish


Nudi


Stone Fish

 

[ocrmaster]

Here is what i learned so far ...

1. When take digital photography you cannot be in a big group of people.
why?
a. if their infront of you they kick up sand and sediments.
b. u hv to be in a hurry to take your shot. no time to do adjustments.

Most of these pics where taken when we did a shallow dive of about 15 ~ 18 meters.
A dm was watching me from above as i took pictures. I had to take a picture and adjust white balance, flash, angle, and wait for the right moment to shoot.
The stone fish was a great subject to work with. It did not move for several minutes.
And I was very careful not to distrubed him. I love the one where you can see the eye
of the stone fish looking at the camera.

New photographer to a new photographer.
My one advice from viewing all the great photographers from scubaboard.
Examine the reef carefully. Some like the stone fish are so adebt at camoflage that u have to be right on top of them.
I took several mins look at small and big rooks. I found some shrimp that clean other fish. But i was in a hurry
and was not able to take a good shot.
Get a huge SD card. I have a 1GB (24MB transfer rate) and 2X 2GB on route to me.
I take the biggest resolution possible and a few videos.

 

[dmpaq20]

Thanks, I went with a 2GB card from the start. It is just enough
What setting di you have it set at? A, P, M, SCN etc

Here is what i learned so far ...

1. When take digital photography you cannot be in a big group of people.
why?
a. if their infront of you they kick up sand and sediments.
b. u hv to be in a hurry to take your shot. no time to do adjustments.

Most of these pics where taken when we did a shallow dive of about 15 ~ 18 meters.
A dm was watching me from above as i took pictures. I had to take a picture and adjust white balance, flash, angle, and wait for the right moment to shoot.
The stone fish was a great subject to work with. It did not move for several minutes.
And I was very careful not to distrubed him. I love the one where you can see the eye
of the stone fish looking at the camera.

New photographer to a new photographer.
My one advice from viewing all the great photographers from scubaboard.
Examine the reef carefully. Some like the stone fish are so adebt at camoflage that u have to be right on top of them.
I took several mins look at small and big rooks. I found some shrimp that clean other fish. But i was in a hurry
and was not able to take a good shot.
Get a huge SD card. I have a 1GB (24MB transfer rate) and 2X 2GB on route to me.
I take the biggest resolution possible and a few videos.

 

[alcina]

I still say, learning Manual is NOT that hard. You can even pretend you are in P mode - but your photos will likely be oh so much better!

In relatively clear, blue waters in daylight - shutter 1/100 or 1/125; f4.5 ish. Use those to start. Get to your dive depth and take a test shot. Does everything look OK? Great, have a nice dive. Too bright? Go to 1/160. Take another test shot. All good? Get shooting! Once you establish a base setting set for your dive pretty much you are good to go - keep shooting from about the same distance (you need to be close uw!) and you'll see nice consistent results.

Or leave your aperture alone for the dive and concentrate on working your shutter speed - see what happens when you change it up or down. Decide what works best for you.

Or leave the settings alone. That makes it like P mode, but with better results.

The auto modes do two things - either separately or together: 1) open the aperture way up giving you soft looking images and too much light. Often create hot spots (those blown out white or cyan parts) in images. 2) slow the shutter down so much you get blur from camera, ocean, person, subject motion. And very light backgrounds often with hot spots again. Oh yeah, and on some cameras P and Auto modes will also determine if the flash fires or not - uw you want the flash to fire everytime for macro for the best colours.

Setting up two basics and then not touching either after your initial test shot will help eliminate some of the problems from Auto and P modes (and UW mode) while still leaving you free to concentrate on things other than manual settings.

Manual does not mean you are changing things all the time...it means you CAN if you want to.

Sorry, but this is the single thing that I wish my mentors would have drummed into me from the very beginning as there is no contest between my first images shot in manual and those I had been taking in Auto modes - and it sucks to look back at all those that could have been something!

 

[SharkLover]

Thanks Alcina, that is what I needed. The more i learn now the better my first shots wil be.

I still say, learning Manual is NOT that hard. You can even pretend you are in P mode - but your photos will likely be oh so much better!

In relatively clear, blue waters in daylight - shutter 1/100 or 1/125; f4.5 ish. Use those to start. Get to your dive depth and take a test shot. Does everything look OK? Great, have a nice dive. Too bright? Go to 1/160. Take another test shot. All good? Get shooting! Once you establish a base setting set for your dive pretty much you are good to go - keep shooting from about the same distance (you need to be close uw!) and you'll see nice consistent results.

Or leave your aperture alone for the dive and concentrate on working your shutter speed - see what happens when you change it up or down. Decide what works best for you.

Or leave the settings alone. That makes it like P mode, but with better results.

The auto modes do two things - either separately or together: 1) open the aperture way up giving you soft looking images and too much light. Often create hot spots (those blown out white or cyan parts) in images. 2) slow the shutter down so much you get blur from camera, ocean, person, subject motion. And very light backgrounds often with hot spots again. Oh yeah, and on some cameras P and Auto modes will also determine if the flash fires or not - uw you want the flash to fire everytime for macro for the best colours.

Setting up two basics and then not touching either after your initial test shot will help eliminate some of the problems from Auto and P modes (and UW mode) while still leaving you free to concentrate on things other than manual settings.

Manual does not mean you are changing things all the time...it means you CAN if you want to.

Sorry, but this is the single thing that I wish my mentors would have drummed into me from the very beginning as there is no contest between my first images shot in manual and those I had been taking in Auto modes - and it sucks to look back at all those that could have been something!

 

[KidK9]

Nice pics! That avatar has got to go tho!

 

[SharkLover]

yes it does, at least he isn't asking you to vote for Kelly Pickler anymore!

Nice pics! That avatar has got to go tho!

 

[DennisW]

Very nice pictures. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Mike Veitch]

Nice pics! That avatar has got to go tho!

You don't like the look of Orc? you are not nice....