Tips for a first time uw photographer...

[KeithG]

2) don't screw with the o-ring.
QUOTE]

What do you mean? My understanding is that it's common practice to remove, inspect and relube the o-ring on a regular basis, although how often seems to be a point of debate.

Thanks for the advice.

PH

There are 2 sides to every fence.

I am in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp. So I clean and lube my orings once a trip only. I do open the camera after every dive since it needs a battery swap.

Every time you fiddle with the oring you get a chance to make a mistake. The people I see flooding cameras are the people who also fiddle with the oring all the time. This may just be a coincidence?

Why "clean" it every dive if it has not had a chance to get dirty? If they started clean, they should stay clean.

Now if you dove in a silt storm or tend to drag your camera along a sand bottom then maybe you need to check to see if your rinse job was good enough.

You are free to adopt whatever practice makes you feel best.

---------- Post added February 17th, 2014 at 02:33 PM ----------

I have mixed feelings about the camera tank as well. As you ascend, the mate may take your camera and put it in the rinse bucket. I usually remove it after I shed my gear and change over to the new tank.

The rinse tank is where all cameras go to get their dome lens scratched.

I pull my camera as soon as I have removed my BC. Tha camera goes on a dry spot (often a camera table) covered by towel.

 

[Darnold9999]

Put me in the don't screw with the o-ring crowd. Clean and lube it when putting the camera together. No need after that unless there is some specific reason. (You dropped it, sand/silt on the housing....)

I open and swap batteries and card after every dive - housing remains sealed otherwise, until I need to pack up the camera.

Rinse tank is to test for bubbles before the dive and rinse after - not for storage. Too easy for somoeone else to damage something.

 

[Donnah]

If you have to open your camera when you are on the dive boat, make sure your hands are dry and that your hair isn't dripping. Sounds obvious, but I see many people doing it. Don't chase fish to get a picture -- all you will get is tails. Look at images in dive magazines.

 

[Interceptor121]

I agree with giffen for most. Few addition focus on the type of shots you can take with your equipment and then go diving in a pool with the camera and so some try shots. I am amazed how many people find out how their camera behaves on the trip itself. For what concerns orings clean everything before leaving a make sure the housing and strobe travel not pressurised. On arrival assemble all the orings and from there on don't touch them until you go back. Make sure the housing gets opened the least time and also don't leave housing or strobe in the sun or you may have condensation issues. Never leave the camera in the rinse tank and take with you a soft microfibre cloth to wipe ports and lenses as you have rinsed the camera to avoid watermarks. Also buy a Pentax lens cleaning cloth for when ports and cameras are dry in case you discover dust or get finger marks. Have fun

 

[smoore]

Make a detailed checklist regarding how to assemble your camera, housing, strobe, video lights etc. This will include stuff like flipping up the camera flash, removing the lens cap, etc. Have the list plasticized and use it every time. It will ensure that you don't dive without a battery in your camera or a memory card. If you check my profile I have some posts with a sample checklist for my camera which you can adapt. The link is http://2sb.us/401174

Get a neoprene cap for your dome port and carry it in your bc and place it on the dome before you hand up your camera to the boat crew. I scratched a dome port in a rinse tank years ago but not again.

If possible assemble your gear in an air conditioned room as this reduces the risk of condensation.

Get a leak detector. There is an inexpensive one from Australia.

Never jump in the water with the camera. Get the crew to hand it to you.

Get closer to you subjects underwater. Watch the edges of the viewfinder to ensure that you don't have half of another fish in the frame or the tips of someone's fins. I have had many good shots ruined by extraneous stuff that I could not crop out in processing later.

Good luck.

 

[PARADISE HUNTER]

Lot's of great advice here.

Thanks everyone for the responses!

PH

 

[James R]

Do not clean o-ring channel with a cotton q-tip as they can leave cotton behind. Instead, use triangle-shaped makeup applicator sponges (not the vitamin-e infused). They are great for cleaning o-rings as well, just don't re-use them once dirty. Here's an example of what I am talking about.

Any time my housing is opened, the o-ring comes out and is cleaned & lubricated, the o-ring channel is cleaned with a makeup wedge. Sand, hairs, (and who knows what else) along with a little complacency and/or laziness are the enemy of an underwater camera.

Make sure your leak alarm battery isn't dead.

I agree with the rinse tank advice above. My camera never sits in a rinse tank unattended. Cameras knocking against eachother can cause a leak or a port scratch. No thanks. Also, a metal housing is a lot less likely to fog up than a plastic one. I bring my camera rig to my seat and cover it with a towel, or just put it somewhere safe and shaded if that's not an option.

Get your rig insured. If you have USAA, or can, I would go with their VPP (Valuable Personal Property) as it's a no-deductible replacement. Also, they wont cancel you after one claim.

Shoot manual. Shoot Raw.

Get familiar with an image cataloging & adjusting program such as Lightroom if you aren't already.

In the water: go low, go slow, and don't be "that guy."

Good luck,

 

[PatW]

I would suggest that you get Martin Edge's excellent book on Underwater Photography.

1) Shoot manual.
2) Shoot RAW.
3) Get close. Anything farther than 5' is marginal unless it is an existing light, landscape shot.
4) Check your histograms and exposure.
5) Refining your buoyancy is critical. The more control you have the better.
6) Check around you frequently. It is easy to get task loaded with a camera. Check for your buddy, check your air, check your depth, etc.
7) Learn your camera inside and out.
8) Learning Lightroom or a similar raw processor is a very good idea.
9) Watch the fish. I have learned that most fish have a sphere of comfort around them. If you get inside of that, they will swim away. I have also found that if I watch a fish, I can often move to where the fish is going and wait for him to show up. Fish are much more comfortable about approaching a photographer than being chased by one.

 

[PARADISE HUNTER]

Any suggestions on where I can find a micro fibre cloth for cleaning the lens and port? I don't have a local camera shop and can't find them in the usual big box stores. I've looked on line and only finding them in larger quantities. Will I be burning through them fast enough to purchase them bulk?

There seems to be different grades of them as well. Some are made for cleaning tires, doubt that's what I'm after.

James R- Thanks for the suggestion on the make up applicators, I picked some up.

Smore - Thanks for the checklist, I will tweak it some and adopt it as my own.

Appreciate the help everyone.

PH

 

[Interceptor121]

For wiping use mcnett or similar for lens cleaning Pentax both on amazon