Trip Report Cobalt Coast/Divetech, May 6 - May 10

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Sorrows

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Just got back from a quick (4 days) trip to Grand Cayman, staying at Cobalt Coast and diving with Divetech. There were four of us; our family came to GC to dive the Kittiwake. As I have mentioned on other threads, this was my dad's last ship--he was the diving officer and chief engineer. The Kittiwake foundation allowed us to put a plaque to my dad on the ship when it was still in Norfolk (my husband's a marine engineer, so no problems there). This was our first time to see it underwater.

Anyway, we have been to Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, but never have dove Grand Cayman. Most of our diving has been in Bonaire, Cozumel, Roatan, and the Florida Keyes; one trip each to Palau and Lembeh. On our vacations, we like to DIVE, eat and sleep. So, like a lot of people here, we prefer dedicated dive resorts.

Cobalt Coast Dive Resort

Cobalt Coast fit our needs nicely. Ari and Dora in the front office were both lovely people, answered all my questions, and took good care of us. We had a 2 bedroom, 2 bath unit with a little kitchen/dining area and living room, three televisions we never turned on, and our own porch with a gorgeous view of the water. Very spacious and comfy. The bed linens were a bit worn, but I liked the firm pillow they gave me. (I usually travel with my own, as I have neck problems.) In any case, I slept like a rock each night and woke up feeling great.

We got the meal plan and it was quite good--particularly lunch. All meals were ordered off the menu. Full breakfast, excellent lunch and a three-course dinner. I actually thought dinner was too much food--when you eat that late and go right to bed, sometimes you just don't need that much. The menu is limited with a special each night--I could see where that could get monotonous. We did see a pizza delivery man at one point, so I guess not everybody gets the meal plan. We were there for such a short time, however, and didn't want to bother with a car or spending time going out.

There is not much to do at night--it's a small place and everything is deserted by nine. There is nothing walkable nearby. I was thinking of an earlier thread that asked "how congenial is Cobalt Coast?" because there was a single woman at the resort. I would have liked to ask her (and others--we met a lot of nice couples there) to join us for dinner, but the table are small, designed for no more than four. I wish they would consider a few rectangular ones for larger groups.

On our first night there, we went for a walk out to the tiny beach area and pier. The pier was in terrible shape--several planks missing, one with nails sticking up, a real hazard. I remarked to one of the Divetech crews about it--seriously, that was just a lawsuit waiting to happen--and was told the pier belonged to the resort. Well, I never got the chance to voice my concerns because it was fixed the very next day! And a nice job they did, too!

Our flight left at 4:30 and our transport came for us at 1:45. So we had some time in the morning, but not enough to go for a sail or something like that. We decided not to do the turtle farm after talking to some other divers about it. Ari warned us about going into town, and I sure do wish I had listened to him. I guess we thought we ought to at least give George Town a look-see. Ugh. I hate shopping and I hate cruise ships and the town looks like Miami thirty years ago. Not very charming, to say the least. We ate lunch out (it would have been better at the resort) and took the bus back. Word to the wise--spend the morning by the pool or snorkeling. I wish we had!

---------- Post added May 11th, 2013 at 11:11 AM ----------
DIVETECH
The most important thing you need to know about the Divetech operation (if you are staying at Cobalt Coast) is that apparently they don't use the on-site pier very much. One of the DMs told me they use it a lot in the summer--when the seas are calm. However, many repeaters to CC have mentioned that they have never used it and it was pretty calm when we were there, so I don't know what to think. You can use the pier for shore dives--it's shallow, so don't do a giant stride--use the ladder.

Here's how it works. Every morning (or afternoon) you get your gear together in your bag and head out to where the trucks are. They put your gear in the truck and you get into the vans. They take you to Lighthouse or other site (if you are diving the Kittiwake, for example) and get your gear on board and out you go. The weights are on the boat and you put them in and take them out again after each trip (or shore dive) You hook up your own gear and change tanks in between.

Our boat was in decent condition, reasonably fast, not overly large and there is no head on board. There is water and orange slices for in between dives. They provide towels.

The DMs/Instructors are a mix of Caymanians, American, Canadians and British/Europeans. They give very thorough briefings and are obviously safety-conscious. Underwater they lead you out and back in, waiting for everybody to get back in the boat before they do. But there isn't a lot of assistance on the boat and they don't point out anything of interest to their charges, unless it's something big--a turtle, or the manta ray we saw one day (another groups saw a hammerhead!) Some people prefer the low-key DM, others don't. Your call.

Christian appears to be the one who really knows his marine life--particularly the small stuff; at one site, he tried to tell us where we could find a sea spider (he was not the DM for that trip) but, sadly, we were unable to find it. But the guy knows his blennies, so I appreciated talking to him about one of my most favorite subjects!

Our DM for the Kittiwake was Andre (Ondrej) who was very thorough and very helpful, taking photos of us with my dad's plaque and leading us around.

The dive briefing for the Stingray City trip was also very thorough. They don't let you feed them yourself--instead the DMs have a bottle full of squid which they feed the rays around the divers sitting in a circle. The "ray wranglers" try to get the rays over to the divers, allowing us to touch them, holding them up for photos and that kind of thing. The DM put the heel of my thumb under the ray's mouth and let it suck--ouch! My goodness, I think they could suck the hair from your head! But the rays know who has the food, so they pretty much ignore the divers who don't have the bottles. It was interesting for awhile, but, I admit, I started looking around for something else to see and/or do after 15 minutes or so. It was a bit controlled for my taste. YMMV.

The diver-prep area is pretty nice--long benches for suiting up. There isn't a lot of room for hanging your stuff to dry. They give you lockers--it was kind of tight for two diver's stuff, but we made it work.

---------- Post added May 11th, 2013 at 12:08 PM ----------

THE DIVING

The dive plan includes two boat dives per day--there is no one-tank afternoon dive. We were scheduled for the morning (7:45 am) dive one day, and subsequent days for the 12:45 pm boat dives. In between we did shore dives at both Lighthouse and Cobalt Coast. So we had a total of six boat dives and four shore dives. For our first (we call it a check-out, both for us and our cameras) dive, it looked pretty choppy at Cobalt Coast, so they took us over to Lighthouse. You have to be out of the water by 4:45 in you want a ride back to Cobalt Coast.

We'd come to GC primarily to dive the Kittiwake. My original plan was to stay on GC just long enough for the Kittiwake and then go on to Little Cayman. I wish I had stuck to our plan, because honestly I do not think the diving was very good on Grand Cayman. I get that people like the coral formations and walls but there just don't seem to be all that many fish. Very few large schools. Very few schools, period. Not even all that many individual fish--the only place I've ever been where a solitary Angel or Rock Beauty is the norm, btw. Strange. You could be on a wall for a good ten minutes and not see a single fish. And, btw, I include small stuff. I like the small stuff. I was happier rooting around in the rubble and sand for blennies and crabs than I was hanging on the walls, on which the dominant color scheme appeared to be varying shades of brown with purple and green accents provided by sponges and sea fans. I just don't get the attraction of the diving here, although I know there are lots of people who return year after year. So perhaps there is something that I'm missing?

I'm not really into wreck diving, although obviously I have an emotional connection to the Kittiwake. But, honestly, the Kittiwake is a great dive, mostly because they foundation has done an outstanding job on it. There are lots of places to swim through and lots of rooms to explore. Very accessible and not scary at all. Some resident fish, including a gorgeous midnight parrot. Definitely a must-do.

Outside of the Kittiwake, our favorite dive was a night shore dive from Cobalt Coast. Lobster, octopus, shrimps, turtle, tarpon and, unfortunately, the largest lionfish I have ever seen anywhere. Our boat dives were otherwise pretty forgettable.

This is hard to write, because I like the people and operation at Divetech and Cobalt Coast very much, and wish them all the best. But the truth is that this is an expensive trip--$1200 a day for four people--for what is essentially mediocre diving. Certainly you can get better diving in Cozumel for less than half the price, but Roatan and Bonaire are also not as expensive and not all that much more difficult/expensive to get to. I'm sorry, but if you are into fish and reef creatures, then Grand Cayman just isn't worth the time nor the money.

IMHO. YMMV, and probably does.
 
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Thanks for the report. We are now here at Cobalt Coast.

Left home at 7am and it was 5C but luckily no rain. Flight was 4hr direct and totally uneventful except for the screaming kid in front of us.

Amazingly there was no line at immigration and we were through in 5 minutes. Thought we'd have to wait for our dive bags but had them in about another 5-10 minutes. What an amazing start to our vacation.

But of course that is where it stopped. Got outside looking for our ride. No one was standing there with our name like we were told. After about 10 minutes Michael from Red Sail asked if he could help. Seemed our van just left. Our plane was on time and we were out front in about 10 minutes. We ended up waiting for 30 minutes for him to return. Kudos to Michael for helping out someone else's customer.

Finally reached CC and had to wait another 10 minutes to get checked in by Airie (sp) the owner. Not really friendly and no apologies for the mix up. Seems the driver didn't even know about us.

Got settled in our room and then went down for lunch. Good selection and huge portions. We were so stuffed we didn't finish everything. Now killing time until we want to eat dinner.

Decided against a shore dive as the waves were big. Sorrow: They missed one nail. I agree that would be scary if there were a lot more

Just met Dora and it seems she didn't know about our change of flight. I sent it end of March but that girl is no longer here.

Going to go now as it is hard to write so much on my BlackBerry Playbook

Betty
 
Thanks for the detailed report. I'm sorry you didn't see that many fish and critters. Do you remember which dive sites you visited? This derth of sealife hasn't been my experience at all.

Missing boards on the pier happens from time to time. The pier is designed to allow the boards to pop out when hit with heavy seas. If the boards didn't give, the waves would take out the dock. So, there must have been some bad waves prior to your arrival.

This is what it was like in October, when hurricane Sandy was ravaging Jamaica and Cuba:

PA250902.jpg

As for dinners with others: It's not uncommon for people to move the tables together. We often do this with other divers we meet. In fact, if you do this more than a couple of times, the wait staff will arrange the tables on their own.

Again, I'm sorry the diving didn't live up to your expectations.
 
Betty, I am sorry there was a mix-up at the airport. If it was too choppy at Cobalt Coast, did they not offer to take you to Lighthouse? That's what we did. It's a bit calmer there.

GB, the sites we visited were Mitch Miller, Eagle Ray Pass, Spanish Bay, and Blue Pinnacle.
 
My brother likes GC much more than I do and I therefore travel with him there once per year. Otherwise I would not bother. Over the past 20 years, I've witnessed a dramatic decrease in marine life around GC and I am struck by how few fish there are. I dive on Little Cayman and Bonaire frequently and the differences are dramatic. I don't know if it is because of all the development, sewage, loss of mangrove habitat, fertilizer run off from the golf course, cruise ships or a combination but GC is nearly devoid of fish. There is so much development along the shore on the west side of GC that you can hardly see the ocean. The marine Park laws only go so far to protect habitat, the rest has been ruined by greed.
 
Doctorfish, I think a lot of people love the coral structures and the walls. Or perhaps they like the ease in getting there or all the amenities available? It has more of a Miami Beach vibe than a Caribbean one. But for those divers who are all about the fish, it's just not happening.

I forgot to mention that I found a red-lipped blenny (bi-color variation) right by the steps on the pier at Cobalt Coast. I wonder if GC could start a focus on macro, like they do at St. Vincent? Would I feel differently if there had been a DM in the water to show us the Caribbean Sea Spider and other sought-after treasures? If all your focus is on the pelagics and big stuff, then perhaps it isn't surprising that divers are disappointed when all you can deliver is a turtle and a manta or hammerhead in the distant blue.

Meanwhile, we have to do more to protect places like Bonaire and Little Cayman!

Edited to add: It was lovely to see a few Nassau groupers. I hope they are truly making a comeback!
 
Yes, thankfully due, I believe, to REEFS Grouper moon project, we are seeing more and more of the Nassaus on Caymans reefs..Hurray!!
I do believe you are correct when you assume that many folks that travel to GC, enjoy the ease of travel, the number of amenties,etc..There are still far more numbers of non_ divers after all.:))
I would tend to agree also , if your looking for large schools of fish in the Caribbean, GC is not where you want to be..I can think of a few very fishy sites ,some down at the East End, Tarpon at Turtle Reef, Horse Eye Jacks at the Kittiwake, grunts at Cobalt Coasts mini wall, etc..but no where, are you going to be blown away by the numbers of fish.. I do believe marine life is still very healthy around the island, and indeed there are many macro opportunities to explore..In defense however of those Dive instructors, or DMs leading dives, generally this is not what the overall hope, or aim of visiting divers..Many are more anxious to see the Rays, sharks, turtles ,eels, lobsters etc, and have little or no knowledge, or interest of the macro world that exists. When you have someone guiding a group of 7-15 divers, it becomes very difficult to slow down and search, find, and point out the itty bitty stuff. I can vouch for the staff at DT, spending a good deal of my winter diving with them, and can confirm, on any given day, most are quite capable of finding and identifying the wee stuff. They just rarely get the opportunity on a one to one basis to do it. Its not uncommon if I find something of interest , to call the staff over and point it out, BUT, many times, the divers being led, are beyond trying to show..Their buoyancy skills are atrocious, and many lack the proper mask for their failing vision. I spend huge amounts of time in the shallows, over top the seemingly barren hard pan, and have many photos to prove, the life is there. http://www.cgillsphotos.com/Underwater/Cayman-Winter-2011-2/20481366_bB8TSK#!i=1621565386&k=PhZRT97 My advice is that you, shore dive as not to have to heed a boats schedule, learn to slow down, become familiar with where and how to look for subjects, or even hire a personal guide to share a shore dive with you..Sea spiders, FWIW can often times be found within a very short swim of the docks at LHPT or CC, or the ladder at Turtle reef..'Im not sure about how territorial they are, but a good place to begin the search is around low lying fire coral, which they seem to favor, as well as the Leafy Flat Blade algae . They are very small, and difficult to distinguish initially .

Sorry for the bit of a rant, but I get rather defensive when folks bad mouth the sea life surrounding GC..after spending just a few dives about the island..I have been diving GC for a good number of years, and still continue to discover critters I have not seen before with each and every visit.Is it the same it was 20-30 years ago? No, but you can walk into a grocery on the island, and usually find anything you could in the states. The price of progress...
 
cgills: Totally agree. I am at CC right now and just got back from a shore dive at Lighthouse Point where we spent over 10 minutes checking out two sailfin blennies. First time doing LHP and it was fabulous. Can't wait to go back tomorrow afternoon.

Betty
 
Hey Betty- how has your trip been so far?
Was my trip report accurate to what you are
experiencing?
I make a DVD of pictures and video I take-I still have to add music - it's been over 5 weeks since we returned!
Normally I have that done by now after returning from a trip!!! Bee so dang busy - I wish I was back there!!!!
 
cgills, I don't think I was "badmouthing" but rather giving an honest report based on my own personal experience and opinion. And I certainly included a lot of good things as well! But I know how it is when you love a place so much--it's as if someone implied your child wasn't perfect. :)

Thank you for your advice, but I've actually logged a lot of shore dives; on boat dives, I'm always at the back of the group because I'm always looking for the small stuff--I even carry my own magnifying glass! Wish I'd known about the low-lying fire coral and sea spiders, though. I looked at a lot of algae trying to find one of those little buggers, but no luck. That would be a spectacular find!

Betty, I am so glad you had a great shore dive at Lighthouse! I am obsessed with blennies--all kinds--love, love, LOVE them. Are you going to try a night dive there or at Cobalt Coast?
 

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