Ive benefited a great deal on our recent trip from this forum and I just thought Id return the favor. My husband and I had an awesome first experience in Cozumel as our first dive trip since getting certified in June, we had no idea what to expect. And as expected, we are HOOKED and will definitely be back! Here is what our experience was like for 6 days from 9/14/07 9/19/07:
Air: We flew Mexicana into Cancun (from LAX) and saved about $170/ticket. We did, however, plan our trip on a whim so we decided on a Monday that wed be going and by Thursday, we were in Mexico. Very last minute, but since it was low-season, it was still very doable.
Transfers (bus/ferry): We took the ADO bus that picks up/ drops off directly from the airport. BE WARY OF ANYONE that walks up to you asking if you need help looking for the bus. They work for tips (You pay for my information, my friend.) Just head right as soon as you step out of baggage claim and you should see the big grey and red bus. Anyone in a red shirt is an ADO employee, go to them for help if needed. The trip takes ~45 minutes to Playa del Carmen and is $8/person. Busses run every hour on the hour from 8:00 am to 6:15 pm.
Once in PDC, you have the choice between 2 ferries: Ultramar (yellow and blue boat) and the Mexico IV (white). We paid $20/ person RT for the Ultramar and I assume the rates are comparable if not the same for the other. The Mexico IV seemed to go much faster in the water but the Ultramar boasts an outdoor seating deck as well as a live band on board. Transfer time: ~35 minutes.
Accomodations: We hadnt booked anything prior to arrival but I had made enough calls/emails to know that there were vacancies at every place we were considering. We looked for 3 criteria: convenience for diving, proximity to downtown, and a fairly low rate. We found it in the Amaranto B&B (although there was never any breakfast). I believe it was featured on HGTV for being an extreme home or something to that effect. The entire structure is cylindrical so the rooms are cornerless and round. The owner, Jorge, is actually its architect and he is an absolute delight. We booked the penthouse suite the first night and it was awesome. Theres one king and one double bed and a wooden ladder that leads to something I can only describe as a treehouse, from which you can look out of the holes in the thatched roof and enjoy a magnificent view. There is a tv, a safe, a fridge, a microwave, mini-oven, and a little kitchenette area complete with sink and utensils. There is no A/C but the way the room is designed, if you open all the windows, the breeze ventilates and cools down the room. Bug spray is a must!! From our second night on, we moved down to the second floor suite which had pretty much the same set-up minus the treehouse, but with A/C this time. We were charged $49/night for either room. There is also a phone and computer/internet that you are free to use in the lobby. Jorge was there some days and gone all nights and we ran into maybe one other guest our entire stay so it felt very much like we were in our own place rather than a hotel. It is a walkable 3 blocks to the water and about 5 blocks into downtown or $2-$3 cab rides.
Our runners- up were the Caribe Blu Hotel and The Hotel Barracuda. The Hotel Barracuda was charging $69/night and the ocean view might have been worth it but we were turned off by the loud bar/pool area that somehow got even louder once we were in the room (we asked to see a 3rd floor room before committing). And save for the umbrellas on every table on the sandy beach, there is no source of shade. As for Caribe Blu, we are considering this hotel for our next stay because it is convenient for diving, it has a more relaxed vibe than the Barracuda while still offering the ocean view, and the grounds are clean and well-kept. It is also closer to El Chedraui than the Barracuda and a cab into town is only $2.
Taxis a tip we received on the trip: Look for ones that have a red flag on them, as these are the local cabs and fares are slightly lower.
Car Rental: Isis Rentadora gave us a clean, fairly new Chevy with a/c for $40/day including insurance. They pick you up and give you a map of the island. We had no complaints.
Diving Op: We went with the tried and true: Blue Angel at the Caribe Blu Hotel. Jeanie is the owner and what a sweet and personable lady she is. We dove for 4 days straight 2 tank dives each morning, as well as a 1 tank night dive. The first day out, our divemaster was Pumba. A nice guy and he does well enough, and we really wouldnt have known any better had we not gone out with Jorge the second day. Jorge was great. We really felt like he was looking out for our best interest, both in safety as well as our experience in the water. The captain was also great. Didnt catch his name but he always came with the same boat, the Chiquimax. They were our team for the final three days and well personally ask for them again next time were in Cozumel. Our dive package was $53/dive and included unlimited tanks for shore dives (which really, no one ever used) and they picked us up from the Hotel Barracuda pier everytime we asked them to. Sometimes wed get dropped off at Caribe Blu to just hang out with the staff/ other divers, or grab a snack upstairs, or fall asleep in their hammocks.
El Chedraui: This is the local supermarket likened to a Super Wal-Mart. They have everything from plasma TVs to peanut butter. We stocked up on snacks and breakfast foods as well as scoring a Transformer for our nephew (currently sold out at our Toys-R-Us). Great way to save some money or try out the Mexican version of food stuffs.
Restaurants: Since we happened to be in Cozumel during Mexicos Independence Day, we took advantage of the festivities (read: good, cheap eats!). We stuffed ourselves with dollar tacos, Mexican corn on the cob, and mugs of beer as we walked around the fair. One of our most fun nights out since the nightlife during the low season is pretty much non-existent.
Chi Lounge and Bar - $10 lunch buffet for all-you-can-eat Chinese. Perfect for when youre starving after 3 hours of diving. Tastes even better out on the balcony overlooking the waters. Located above Pizza Hut on the main street.
Caribe Blu Café (upstairs) Had a quick snack of chicken chimichanga and fries. Fresh and tasty for about $10.
San Carlos Jorge from Amaranto suggested this local spot on our first day in Cozumel. They sell fresh fish and seafood and have a little restaurant in the back. We had a huge plate of conch, shrimp, and fish ceviche and two orders of fried grouper (whole, not filet). Very good. Located on Avenida 50 between Calle 1-4 (sorry, we walked there).
El Candela - Jorge from Blue Angel recommended this great little Cuban place and they have the same hot sauce as La Chozas. Try any of the fish dishes. The chicken fajitas and stuffed chicken are also great. Located on the corner of Calle 6 norte & Avenida 5.
Los Otates great little local spot for tacos and pozoles. We ate here often because it was about 2 blocks from our place and the tacos are good (and cheap). Located on Avenida 15 between Calle 3&4 sur.
Casa Denis stopped here for margaritas and beer. Their banana marg was the best Ive had. $6 gets you a BIG one.
Albertos Located in the south, past Carlos and Charlies. We rented a car one day and had a hard time deciding where to stop for dinner so we decided on here. They have palapas right on the beach, which is where we dined. They have a large menu, including lobster tail and fresh fish they bring it out on a tray and you choose the one youd like to have cooked. Great food and a great spot to enjoy a sunset. Well probably try a restaurant further along on the east near Playa Bonita next time since the beach there is much prettier.
Air: We flew Mexicana into Cancun (from LAX) and saved about $170/ticket. We did, however, plan our trip on a whim so we decided on a Monday that wed be going and by Thursday, we were in Mexico. Very last minute, but since it was low-season, it was still very doable.
Transfers (bus/ferry): We took the ADO bus that picks up/ drops off directly from the airport. BE WARY OF ANYONE that walks up to you asking if you need help looking for the bus. They work for tips (You pay for my information, my friend.) Just head right as soon as you step out of baggage claim and you should see the big grey and red bus. Anyone in a red shirt is an ADO employee, go to them for help if needed. The trip takes ~45 minutes to Playa del Carmen and is $8/person. Busses run every hour on the hour from 8:00 am to 6:15 pm.
Once in PDC, you have the choice between 2 ferries: Ultramar (yellow and blue boat) and the Mexico IV (white). We paid $20/ person RT for the Ultramar and I assume the rates are comparable if not the same for the other. The Mexico IV seemed to go much faster in the water but the Ultramar boasts an outdoor seating deck as well as a live band on board. Transfer time: ~35 minutes.
Accomodations: We hadnt booked anything prior to arrival but I had made enough calls/emails to know that there were vacancies at every place we were considering. We looked for 3 criteria: convenience for diving, proximity to downtown, and a fairly low rate. We found it in the Amaranto B&B (although there was never any breakfast). I believe it was featured on HGTV for being an extreme home or something to that effect. The entire structure is cylindrical so the rooms are cornerless and round. The owner, Jorge, is actually its architect and he is an absolute delight. We booked the penthouse suite the first night and it was awesome. Theres one king and one double bed and a wooden ladder that leads to something I can only describe as a treehouse, from which you can look out of the holes in the thatched roof and enjoy a magnificent view. There is a tv, a safe, a fridge, a microwave, mini-oven, and a little kitchenette area complete with sink and utensils. There is no A/C but the way the room is designed, if you open all the windows, the breeze ventilates and cools down the room. Bug spray is a must!! From our second night on, we moved down to the second floor suite which had pretty much the same set-up minus the treehouse, but with A/C this time. We were charged $49/night for either room. There is also a phone and computer/internet that you are free to use in the lobby. Jorge was there some days and gone all nights and we ran into maybe one other guest our entire stay so it felt very much like we were in our own place rather than a hotel. It is a walkable 3 blocks to the water and about 5 blocks into downtown or $2-$3 cab rides.
Our runners- up were the Caribe Blu Hotel and The Hotel Barracuda. The Hotel Barracuda was charging $69/night and the ocean view might have been worth it but we were turned off by the loud bar/pool area that somehow got even louder once we were in the room (we asked to see a 3rd floor room before committing). And save for the umbrellas on every table on the sandy beach, there is no source of shade. As for Caribe Blu, we are considering this hotel for our next stay because it is convenient for diving, it has a more relaxed vibe than the Barracuda while still offering the ocean view, and the grounds are clean and well-kept. It is also closer to El Chedraui than the Barracuda and a cab into town is only $2.
Taxis a tip we received on the trip: Look for ones that have a red flag on them, as these are the local cabs and fares are slightly lower.
Car Rental: Isis Rentadora gave us a clean, fairly new Chevy with a/c for $40/day including insurance. They pick you up and give you a map of the island. We had no complaints.
Diving Op: We went with the tried and true: Blue Angel at the Caribe Blu Hotel. Jeanie is the owner and what a sweet and personable lady she is. We dove for 4 days straight 2 tank dives each morning, as well as a 1 tank night dive. The first day out, our divemaster was Pumba. A nice guy and he does well enough, and we really wouldnt have known any better had we not gone out with Jorge the second day. Jorge was great. We really felt like he was looking out for our best interest, both in safety as well as our experience in the water. The captain was also great. Didnt catch his name but he always came with the same boat, the Chiquimax. They were our team for the final three days and well personally ask for them again next time were in Cozumel. Our dive package was $53/dive and included unlimited tanks for shore dives (which really, no one ever used) and they picked us up from the Hotel Barracuda pier everytime we asked them to. Sometimes wed get dropped off at Caribe Blu to just hang out with the staff/ other divers, or grab a snack upstairs, or fall asleep in their hammocks.
El Chedraui: This is the local supermarket likened to a Super Wal-Mart. They have everything from plasma TVs to peanut butter. We stocked up on snacks and breakfast foods as well as scoring a Transformer for our nephew (currently sold out at our Toys-R-Us). Great way to save some money or try out the Mexican version of food stuffs.
Restaurants: Since we happened to be in Cozumel during Mexicos Independence Day, we took advantage of the festivities (read: good, cheap eats!). We stuffed ourselves with dollar tacos, Mexican corn on the cob, and mugs of beer as we walked around the fair. One of our most fun nights out since the nightlife during the low season is pretty much non-existent.
Chi Lounge and Bar - $10 lunch buffet for all-you-can-eat Chinese. Perfect for when youre starving after 3 hours of diving. Tastes even better out on the balcony overlooking the waters. Located above Pizza Hut on the main street.
Caribe Blu Café (upstairs) Had a quick snack of chicken chimichanga and fries. Fresh and tasty for about $10.
San Carlos Jorge from Amaranto suggested this local spot on our first day in Cozumel. They sell fresh fish and seafood and have a little restaurant in the back. We had a huge plate of conch, shrimp, and fish ceviche and two orders of fried grouper (whole, not filet). Very good. Located on Avenida 50 between Calle 1-4 (sorry, we walked there).
El Candela - Jorge from Blue Angel recommended this great little Cuban place and they have the same hot sauce as La Chozas. Try any of the fish dishes. The chicken fajitas and stuffed chicken are also great. Located on the corner of Calle 6 norte & Avenida 5.
Los Otates great little local spot for tacos and pozoles. We ate here often because it was about 2 blocks from our place and the tacos are good (and cheap). Located on Avenida 15 between Calle 3&4 sur.
Casa Denis stopped here for margaritas and beer. Their banana marg was the best Ive had. $6 gets you a BIG one.
Albertos Located in the south, past Carlos and Charlies. We rented a car one day and had a hard time deciding where to stop for dinner so we decided on here. They have palapas right on the beach, which is where we dined. They have a large menu, including lobster tail and fresh fish they bring it out on a tray and you choose the one youd like to have cooked. Great food and a great spot to enjoy a sunset. Well probably try a restaurant further along on the east near Playa Bonita next time since the beach there is much prettier.
