what the hell is a the big deal about DIN, what is it?

[reeldive]

O.k. thanks everyone for your responses - sorry i had to run right after initating (why does that word not look right no matter how I type it ::blinking: but drunken friend duty called.
So my next question is are they just as easy to attach to tanks as yokes? Most of my diving is pretty foofoo tropical rented tank type (career and money dictate that) and I so don't want something that is hard to switch tanks on deck with 6-8 foot swells. do they work with standard nitrox rentals?
do i need a yoke converter to do this?

Most dive charters, live aboards, diveshop etc. (nitrox or air) supply tanks with YOKE valaves. if you don't plan to go (tech) YOKE is the most available

 

[radinator]

I live in the U.S. and have DIN regs for 10 years. I have an adapter, so there has never been a problem with rental tanks when traveling. I prefer not to use the adapter because DIN is lower profile, but it's not a problem to adapt.

My next reg will be DIN, as will the reg after that.

 

[PerroneFord]

Most dive charters, live aboards, diveshop etc. (nitrox or air) supply tanks with YOKE valaves. if you don't plan to go (tech) YOKE is the most available

Again, easily handled with a simple screw-on adapter. I have 3 tanks. 2 are DIN, one Yoke. I use the DIN regs with all 3.

 

[H2Andy]

what radinator and perrone said

 

[grazie42]

Also...while many rental tanks are yoke, many are "made" that way by a "doughnut" that is easily unscrewed from the tank valve...most yoke users never notice this (because there´d be no need to unscrew it for their use)...I only have DIN regs and have never had to use an adapter while on vacation...

 

[TSandM]

Man, I learned a BIG disadvantage of DIN connections yesterday. We did a bubble check at the end of the Edmonds jetty (stupid, should have done it much earlier) and my buddy had a steady stream of bubbles coming out of the relief hole on his valve. I tried tightening his DIN connector and it didn't stop. We both realized that this meant the connector hadn't seated properly in the valve. Rather than make the (rather long) swim back to shore, we climbed up on some rocks at the end of the jetty, and I unscrewed the connector to try re-seating it.

Picture this . . . Both of us in full gear, with our fins on, trying to balance on rocks waist deep in water while disassembling his regulator. Hmmm. I got it unscrewed, all right, and verified that the o-ring was still intact and in place. I failed to recognize what was wrong with it, being unfamiliar with his type of regulator (there's a nut at the end of the connector that screws down over another o-ring, and it was loose). But I start trying to reinsert the connector into the valve, and can't get the thing to thread properly. We both know we can't get water into the first stage, so we can't leave the rocks until it's fixed, and I can't get it started properly, and I don't want to strip the threads. We look up and discover we have collected quite a concerned audience of non-divers who are watching this process with bemused interest. Due to the presence of small children, I was unable to give voice to the degree of frustration I was feeling at that point.

A yoke connector would simply have slipped back on.

Yes, I finally got it rethreaded, only to find it was leaking worse than before and we had to go in, anyway

One point for yoke!

 

[donooo]

Nope, I think that point was more for equipment maintenance.

don O

 

[SparticleBrane]

Man, I learned a BIG disadvantage of DIN connections yesterday. We did a bubble check at the end of the Edmonds jetty (stupid, should have done it much earlier) and my buddy had a steady stream of bubbles coming out of the relief hole on his valve.

Instead of doing a bubble check in the water--you can do it much easier (and earlier ) on land before you ever hop in.
Go out to your local K-Mart or WalMart or whatever and buy a small spray bottle for $0.99. Throw a little bit of shampoo or other kind of soap in there that readily produces bubbles and mix the rest with water (say...1:5 ratio?) and shake to make sure that it produces bubbles inside.

Bring this with you on all your dives! Before you get in the water, (obviously) pressurize everything and then spray all potential leak points---valve/tank connection, regulator connections, BC low-pressure inflator hose, SPG, etc etc. If there's a leak you'll start to see plenty of bubbles. This will save you a good amount of hassle in the long run. Instead of having to get in the water to see what's bubbling and then getting back out if there is (to change o-rings or tighten or whatever) you can do this all before getting in. Of course, doing a bubble check once you're in the water after doing this doesn't hurt too.

As to the original question--here's everything you'd ever want to know about valves. As to the "200-bar vs. 300-bar" debate, it is adequately addressed as well.

http://www.diveriteexpress.com/library/valves.shtml

 

[dsteding]

Nope, I think that point was more for equipment maintenance.

don O

Not really a maintenance issue, actually. I have 6 dives on these regs-more of a new reg issue. O-rings are perfect.

The issue turned out to be a nut on the end of the DIN male fitting on the first stage that backed off a bit-causing the leak (this is a salvo first stage). Once we went in, I was able to take a look at it, tightened it down and was able to do the dive. I think this was the result of using a new delrin dust cap that grabbed the nut on the first stage as I took it off when rigging up.

What this was is an equipment check issue-I'll be sure to check that nut and make sure it is tight before assembling my gear.

 

[Crawl79]

Before reading this thread I was already wishing I had gotten a Din valve with the yoke adaptor. Still have not needed a Din valve anywhere but I would feel better knowing that I have both.
With a Din and the yoke adaptor is it ok to just keep the yoke adaptor on all the time and only take off when necessary to use the Din valve?