I just started playing around with underwater photography but no matter how colorful the reefs are they always turn out blue. I can see yellows, blues, and blacks just fine but no red or other pretty colors.
This is due to colour absorption at depth. Open Water course - dive environment 101. Of course, that absorption occurs horizontally, as well as vertically, in the water column. The 'red' end of the light spectrum is the first to be absorbed - meaning that greater distance from the surface - or greater distance from the camera lens - will give the created image an increasingly blue cast.
Is the only remedy for this to buy a strobe light? I tried using flash but when I do I get hundreds of orbs in the pictures that ruin everything.
There's several options;
1. Ensure your camera is appropriately set to take photos underwater. Many cameras have a dedicated 'underwater mode'. If so, use it. If it doesn't then you need to investigate potential manual settings that will maximise the efficiency of your camera underwater. Google can be your friend with that.
2. Ensure you 'white balance' at depth. Some cameras are automatic, others are manual.
3. Be realistic about the limitations of your camera system. Unless you're spending $000's on a camera set-up, you are unlikely to get really pleasing shots at a greater range. Understand what you can, and cannot, achieve with your camera and work within those proximities.
4. Built-in flash has severe limitations for underwater photography. They lack power to illuminate subjects beyond short range and cause 'backscatter' (reflections from particles in the water). However, they can be used effectively for macro subjects.
5. Strobe flash increases the power/illumination you can achieve, but the primary benefit is to enable the diver to prevent back-scatter. Most strobes still won't provide great results beyond a couple of meters range - so limitations in panorama, reefscape and big critter shots can still apply.
6. Red Filters reduce the blue light reaching the lens. That 'balances' the colour. However... however... what they are doing is
reducing light to the lens, not adding it. If overall ambient light is low (uncannily, this is normally the case underwater) then you're still going to end with screwed photos. The knock-on impact is that you'll need slower shutter speeds, ISO etc... which will result in blurred images, underexposure or noisy tones. Red filters are only useful in very shallow, very well lit water - even then, there are better alternatives.
7. Wide-angle lenses allow the photographer to close the distance between themselves and the subject. This results in more flash effectiveness and less intrusion from water particles. Wide-angle works great with a strobe flash, if you're aim is to take photos of med-large size critters/other divers/wrecks/reefscapes etc.
8. Post-photo digital editing can work wonders at improving your photo colour and quality. This is applicable to any camera system, regardless of cost or complexity. I created a 'how to' blog article that illustrates how I use Photoshop for improving the photos I take. All my photos are taken with a point-and-shoot digital camera with no external strobes or lenses. This might give you some ideas:
5 Minute Photoshop Edit for Underwater Photographs - Scuba Tech Philippines
9. Last, but not least, make use of whatever natural light you do have. Consider the angle of the subject relative to the direction sun/ambient light... position yourself appropriately.
Here's some examples of macro shots I've taken, using a Sony Cybershot DSC-T20 with no strobes, lenses or filters...
Nudibranch in the Philippines - Sea Slug Underwater Photography - Scuba Tech Philippines
Some more photos, again... no expensive camera extras... of a wider variety of subjects....
Scuba Diving Photographs from the Philippines