Sidemount configurations. . . how to secure top of tank

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JohnN

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I'm looking for opinions on how to attach the top of the tank for sidemount configurations.

From what I can see, one approach is to treat it like a stage bottle and put a loop of line around the valve, attach that loop to a bolt-snap and clip it to the chest D-ring.

The other is to use something like Golem Gear's bungee system, which gets threaded through the slots for the cam-bands in the backplate, sits between the wing and the BP, and uses bungee cord to pull the tanks into your body:

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Comments? Right now, the Golem Gear approach looks compelling to me.
 
When I first showed up at Protec with my Razor, we rigged it similar to the UTD system. With the Stealth 2, I have loops similar to the Golem Gear style, which I prefer--it seem to tuck the tank under my arm more effectively.
 
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I'm looking for opinions on how to attach the top of the tank for sidemount configurations. . . . From what I can see, one approach is to treat it like a stage bottle and put a loop of line around the valve, attach that loop to a bolt-snap and clip it to the chest D-ring. . . . The other is to use something like Golem Gear's bungee system, which gets threaded through the slots for the cam-bands in the backplate, sits between the wing and the BP, and uses bungee cord to pull the tanks into your body: . . . Comments? Right now, the Golem Gear approach looks compelling to me.
The beauty of sidemount is that you can use a variety of approaches and find out what works best FOR YOU. Try both, and see what you prefer. I use the first approach that you identified, but (of course) I also use bungees to hold the cylinder neck in close to the body(armpit) - which you didn't mention. If you simply put a loop of cord around the neck of the cylinder, and then clip it to a chest D-ring with a bolt snap without wrapping bungee around it, the cylinder will hang down away from you body in the water, which defeats part of the purpose of sidemountibng - streamling and creating a low profile.

I personally prefer to have a 'hard' point of attachment for the cylinder tops, rather than only bungee. That is why I use the cord loop with a bolt snap for attachment, and the bungee to pull it in tight. The disadvatage, as noted in some of the comments in the UTD system description link, is that the D-ring can quickly become crowded, if you have a back-up light attached, a bolt snap for the cord loop attached, the front end of a piece of bungee attached, and you then clip off the right cylinder second stage, when you are breathing from the left cylinder, etc.
rongoodman:
I have loops similar to the Golem Gear style, which I prefer--it seem to tuck the tank under my arm more effectively.
A very good point. The SM systems that have a pirce of bungee running under the arm, from the back of the harness to a chest D-ring, allow you to hold the cylinder top in toward the body, but not necessarily 'in and back' toward the armpit. A system like the Golem gear approach would seem to allow you to tuck that cylinder valve in more under the arm.
 
I use a combination of both of the methods you asked about. Basically what is known as "old school bungees". I run a loop of line around the neck with a bolt snap and attach the tank to a dring so it has a hard mount. I then use the bungee loop around the valve to pull the tank up close in to my body.

I have used the single bungee method, like UTD uses, and did not care for it. I did not like the lack of support for the top of the tank out of the water, and I was not able to get the tanks trimmed up nice and tight like I like them.

I have also used Dive Rite's Ring Bungee System
Sidemount Scuba Diving Introducing the Nomad Ring Bungee: Dive Rite - YouTube
Sidemount Diving: Classic Bungees Vs. D-Ring Loop Bungees by Dive Rite - YouTube
While they were incredibly convenient, I still did not think they got my tanks in the trim I liked.


I personally feel that the clip in method that I use is both quick, convenient, and trims my bottles like I want them.
 
Just using a loop attached to a d-ring like a stage bottle will make your sidemount tank hang like a stage bottle. I don't like that even with a stage bottle. Completely out of trim and lots of drag. You need to get the bottle up and even with your body to trim it out properly. There are a variety of methods. My preferred method is to use bungee loops to pull the tanks up rather than into me. This method keeps the valves where they need to be and also allows me the flexibility to move the tanks around when going through restrictions.
 
Just using a loop attached to a d-ring like a stage bottle will make your sidemount tank hang like a stage bottle. I don't like that even with a stage bottle. Completely out of trim and lots of drag. You need to get the bottle up and even with your body to trim it out properly. There are a variety of methods. My preferred method is to use bungee loops to pull the tanks up rather than into me. This method keeps the valves where they need to be and also allows me the flexibility to move the tanks around when going through restrictions.

Rob do you have any photos on this setup as I'm still trying to get a proper fit as well. Thx
 
Thanks, your setup looks very similar to Edd's one as well including the weight under the shoulder D ring.
 
I did the Sorenson inflator swap on my Nomad as well and I added Edd's old school bungee kit using webbing over the top of the wing to create the bungee attach points and a quick link as a bungee keeper, rather than 550 cord.

Like Rob I also eliminated the adjustable strap and use a fixed strap - although I got all fancy and tied a solomon bar for the strap.

My results have been similar to Rob's with the pair of loop bungees keeping the tanks up higher and behind the arm - riding and trimming much better than they did with the stock bungee or with either variation of the ring bungee.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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