200 BAR AND 300 BAR Manifold

Hello all,

I have a quick question.

I'm looking forward to take the Advanced Nitrox/Deco procedure TDI course. At the same time I'm looking for what will be needed for a double tank setup. I see that Diverite has a 200 BAR manifold which will fit with my actual scubapro yoke reg.

Does it worth to keep my actual yoke reg? I feel like a little confused since we usually get tanks filled higher than 200 BAR (about 3300PSI for steel tank). What is the point with 200 BAR manifold?

thanks

pheel

200 Bar manifolds are great for low pressure steel tanks, maybe aluminum tanks as well. Some older DIN regs are only 5-thread (200 Bar) DIN, before 300 Bar became "the standard". And I know of some folks who use a yoke reg on their doubles just so they don't have to buy an extra 1st stage, convert their current reg to DIN, whatever.

Personally I use 300 Bar DIN valves on my doubles, and 3 out of 4 regulators I own are 300 Bar DIN. 300 Bar valves became the standard from cave diving, IIRC, because yoke regs will get worn and possibly unscrewed if they contact the cave ceiling whereas that risk is reduced with DIN valves and regulators. For me? They are easiest to get, and you can always convert a DIN regulator for a yoke valve, not the other way around so I get more flexibility out of my equipment.

Peace,
Greg

The 300 Bar manifold is more common, and as already stated better for high pressure cylinders. As far as DIN....if you are doubling up cylinders and pursuing technical diving...DIN is the way to go. Yoke regs offer a great entanglement hazard, they offer a weakness point as they can be knocked or severed (on the boat too), not to mention....they just don't look right when hooked up to a doubles set up. Most regulator first stages have an available DIN conversion kit that can be put on by your reg tech. My double tank set ups each have 300 Bar DIN manifolds, my stages have DIN valves (one of the stages is a 200 Bar convertible DIN valve, the rest are 300 Bar), and it just makes sense to have things streamlined, and connected properly. A 300 Bar DIN regulator can be used with a 200 Bar valve, it will only stick out a few threads, whereas a 200 Bar DIN regulator cannot be used with a 300 Bar DIN valve. This in itself makes the choice obvious. If you are serious about start taking that technical diving road, you might as well start off on the right foot.

thanks guys !

I couldn't expect a better answer

p

First off, scrap the yokes and go with DIN. Use a din to yoke adapter for travel where they're renting yoke al80s or whatever.

Second, 200 and 300 bar are just slang terms with zero to do with strength. The 300 bar is way more likely to get dinged out of round and not work anymore. Get the 200 bar.

The definitive paper on the subject is here:
SCUBA Valves: Regulator Fittings, 200 vs 300 Bar FAQ and Cylinder Neck Threads - Dive Gear Express

how is the 300 bar more likely to be bent out of round?

I have 300 bar becaus eI use the Genesis HP tanks, but have buddies that use 200 bar for ease of filling and what not. No real disadvantage to either of them, but 200 bar does allow the inserts which is nice

The 300bar valves are longer with more surface area to contact the bed of a truck (for instance) and get squished a bit. Think of how easy it is to deform a soup can vs one of the short, stubby cans of blueberries (yanno, the kind that comes with muffins).

200bar valve is where its at.

Slight out of roundness will prevent inserting the male (regulator side) more easily in the 300 than the 200 because the "tube" is longer and must maintain its parallel-ness for about 3-4mm more. There is also a greater distance between the opening end and the structure of the valve body so if they slide down the truck bed and wack on the valve the unsupported tube is pushed out of round easier.

Net, 300bars are easier to ding and dings are more likely to render the valve scrap.

rjack321:

Net, 300bars are easier to ding and dings are more likely to render the valve scrap.

Click to expand...

Wow...what are you guys doing in that neck of the woods? My (now Ex-) girlfriend dropped an entire rig valve down on the ground. The tank valve was just fine, but after I extricated the regulator (where the 300-bar fitting got warped) from the valve and replaced said fitting on the regulator, all was well. K-Valves are pretty indestructible, IME.

Peace,
Greg

300BAR Manifold and Single Tank Valves to match 300BAR 1st Stages for my Steel HP120's and HP100s.

200BAR for my Aluminum Pony bottles/bail out tanks.

* Exposed 300BAR threads on 1st stages will quickly pick up salt deposits requiring additional maintenance.
* I have not damaged a 300BAR valve. If unsure, you can purchase bolts to protect accidental leaks from roll on and damage during travel.
* Today, the Luxfer S106W 4350PSI 300BAR hoop-wrapped composite cylinder is available in the US and its possible (not holding my breath) 300BAR SCUBA tanks will become common.

Dwayne