Wakatobi observations ....

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highdesert

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Spent 11 days at Wakatobi, October 19-30, for our 25th anniversary blowout trip. We enjoyed every minute of it!

This is a first-class operation. I’m not talking about shiny bathrooms and fluffy robes, but where it really counts, the little stuff that makes a stay effortless and relaxing. Amazing organization … A Swiss-owned resort that runs like a Swiss watch. Nothing overlooked, every detail seemingly thought through, and it runs that way. OK, maybe there are a few minor exceptions, but we constantly remarked about what a well-run operation it is. One exception: If you are shooting pictures, bring loads of memory cards or your own laptop to transfer pics to hard disk or CD. They say they have the facilities there to do so; don't bank on it.

Lodging: Simple, comfortable bungalows, with tile bathrooms and hot showers. Ceiling fan and AC. Lounge chairs, hammock, and umbrella in front, ten feet from the seawall. Tip: The garden bungalows numbered 17 and above all have fair-good water views (not as good as the beach bungalows in front of them) at a cheaper price. If you’re into splurging, the Cliff Villas are amazing.

Food: It’s excellent, lots of variety, and lots of it. Dining room is a really comfortable space, open and airy. Great atmosphere. Cafeteria style (serve yourself), which makes it dangerously easy to gain weight. All alcohol and soft drinks extra; the alcohol is pricey. Worth remembering, though, that virtually all the food and alcohol is flown in, at considerable expense.

Boats: I love their boats. Seventy foot long, heavily built wooden boats, built literally on the other side of the island. Stable, roomy, comfortable, two-foot giant stride entry from either side, good ladders, shade, towels, snacks, water, tea, head (bathroom). The boat crews are likewise excellent, helpful, and genuine. No shirkers or individuals with a bad ‘tude.

Personnel: Lots of them, not only management and dive team (professionals), but hordes of locals. Most professional staff aside from locals rotate their positions with every new group, so they are “cross-trained” and don’t go stale. Dive masters rotate teams and boats every group. We had 12 divers and 2 DM’s on our boat, split in two groups. Everyone was friendly and helpful. Staff eats with guests, spreading themselves around and engaging in conversation. It seems they are "encouraged" to do that, but they do so genuinely, not like it's just their job.

Climate: I’d say about perfect. One day of light overcast, otherwise sunny, nice temp, a breeze, no bugs. Hot, but not steamy.

The Dive Environment: Big surprise … I had no clue they have a 6’ tidal range and accompanying currents. This varied from slack to a pretty ripping current on occasion. Not the best for photography when it was running, but otherwise fine. Had some great rides! Many dives, current changed during dive … on, off, left, right, up, etc. Didn’t experience any down-welling currents. This is not a complaint about currents, just something we hadn't anticipated. We like drift diving, and were glad that we got it on some dives. Water temp 80-81, with the occasional cold spot to wake you up. Dove a 3 mil w/ beanie and was fine. Lot of people with additional vests and 5 mil suits. Deepest dive 88’, just for a few minutes. Viz apparently can vary a lot. OK to excellent our trip, “embarrassing” month before, according to one DM. House reef is every bit as good as people say it is … had some great dives on it. Very handy to do a morning dive or dusk dive. I guess some animals can get in 6-7 dives a day, but 4 was our max. All but 3 out of 40 guests dove nitrox.

Dive attractions: They advertise little critters, and that’s the menu, almost to an obsessive point. I wondered several times if that is intentional, selling what they have to sell, to detract from the fact that nothing much of any size comes swimming by. Some groups may see something big, but in general anything over two feet is noteworthy. We saw no sharks or dolphins, no mantas or eagle rays. Many dives turn into pygmy seahorse hunts, to the near exclusion of other possible features. Don’t get me wrong; I appreciate that little critters are part of the big picture, and enjoyed seeing them and learning about them. I do think they could do a bit more to vary the goal of each dive though. They are somewhat fanatical about not touching the reef, which is not a bad thing. Some of the most amazing coral I have ever seen, but little mention about it by DM’s. I think that is an “underplayed” aspect of the diving.

Conclusion: It’s pricey for Indonesia, or so I’ve heard. But part of your $$$ subsidizes the locals with jobs, and the resort’s environmental program. That’s what keeps the reefs in the condition they are. Book a 10 or 11 day trip; a week is way too short. Give yourself some Bali days up front so you’re rested when you get to the resort. It's a trip worth making, in my opinion.

PS - A little bonus: Are you as big a fan as we are of standing in customs and immigration lines the first thing after 31 hours of travel? When we got to Bali (and bear in mind we weren't going directly to Wakatobi, we were staying in Bali), a Wakatobi representative met us at the door into the terminal and escorted us past 300 or so people waiting in the customs line. He took our passports and visa money and returned 3 minutes later with all of our entry requirements done. From the time we left the plane until we were in our taxi, it seems like hardly 15 minutes had elapsed. Most of those 300 people hadn't gotten through customs yet. Maybe other resorts elsewhere provide a service like that, but I can say we've never experienced it before. I told the other couple with us, "I liked that part we just did a lot."
 
Good report....I was there the week before you (trip report is in this forum) and I think the water temp was 1 degree cooler...I wore a 1mm shorty....froze my butt off. Alex was my guide...what a great guy and great operation....but the diving was just ok and our vis was about 30'....I have enjoyed better diving but I loved the operation.
 
Great review. I'm considering an 11 day trip and the end of August 08. Did you book Wakatobi thru a travel agent or directly with Wakatobi? What would you recommend? If you have the time and inclination, please email me at jonrocklin@yahoo.com with any other advice, comments, etc. How does Wakatobi compare with other places you've dived?
All the Best,
Jonathan
 
Where have you enjoyed better diving? I've been diving in Fiji the last few years. Where would you recommend for great reefs in Sept?
All the best,
Jonathan
 
Where have you enjoyed better diving? I've been diving in Fiji the last few years. Where would you recommend for great reefs in Sept?
All the best,
Jonathan

I generally like bigger stuff.....like Palau, Rangiroa or Fakarava. After being blown away with East Timor last year (really liked the diving) I decided to go to Wakatobi....I was very disapointed in the diving...water was chilly and vis was 30'....The operation was great...loved that....as far as reefs go...There was a dive in Wakatobi called Magnifica...that was one of the finest soft coral reefs I have seen. East Timor was also pretty good.
 
The visibility isn't always 30 feet though. I was there this past September (only 2 trips before you I think Travelnsj) and the visibility was really good, 80-100 feet at least. There was one day it was lower, but never anything near 30 feet, so it probably just depends. I'd kept in touch with one of the divemasters from there and he did specifically mention your week as being particularly bad - I don't think that's standard of how it usually is.
The water was colder than I expected. I wore a full 3mm and I was cold. Not freezing, but a 5mm would have been nice. My computer said it was 79-80 on most dives.
I agree with Travelnsj that it's not the place to go for big stuff. I think the whole week we saw one shark and a few rays and thats it as far as big stuff. Lots of turtles though - 8 on one dive actually! Also at lunch one day a whole school of dophins was playing in the water off the beach. Another group saw pilot whales (and you could hear them at night off the jetty) and the week before we had been there one boat had seen a whale shark. (But this is very rare)
For me, it was the best diving I've ever done in terms of corals and just general overall life and reef healthiness (is that a word?), but it was also my first time to the South Pacific. As has been already said, the actual operation itself runs like clockwork and is the best I've seen. I really enjoyed it.
 
Thanks for sharing. I am heading to Wakatobi in Sept. 08, cant wait. Good to hear about the details of the resort and not just the diving.

I have been worried about the bugs, but you as well as others have said there are none. I was especially worried about the sand fleas (or no-see-ums), they are VERY attracted to me, but looks like I will have nothing to worry about!
 
Thanks for sharing. I am heading to Wakatobi in Sept. 08, cant wait. Good to hear about the details of the resort and not just the diving.

Let me know if you need any ideas about Bali lodging before/after ... I'd be happy to pass on our recommendations.
 
I'd appreciate hearing about Bali resort recommendations.

OK, bear in mind we've only been to Bali the one time, but we were very happy with both places we stayed. On the front end of the trip, we spent 5 days inland in Ubud, the cultural center of Bali. The village center is a bit nuts, but go 100 yards in any direction, and you can be in absolute solitude, surrounded by river gorges and rice paddies. This is a great hub for exploring a good piece of Bali.

We stayed at the Hotel Tjampuhan in Ubud, built in 1920 by the Prince of Ubud for his guests. It's a collection of wood/stone/thatched roof cottages terracing 300' down a jungle hillside to a river. There are thousands (not kidding) of stone carvings all over the place. This place is a trip into the past, but thoroughly gracious and comfortable. Five minute walk into the village, also hotel shuttle running hourly. We would go back here in a flash. Here it is at Asiarooms (a great site for SE Asia lodging): Hotel Tjampuhan Spa hotel Bali hotels in Bali Hotel Tjampuhan Spa hotel discount hotel Bali and also the hotel's own site: Hotel Tjampuhan Spa hotel Bali hotels in Bali Hotel Tjampuhan Spa hotel discount hotel Bali

On the return, we spent one night in Kuta, five minutes from the aiport, half block from the beach and likewise from the main drag thru town, at the Green Garden Beach Resort and Spa. What a neat little find! A little piece of paradise tucked in where it's not real easy to find. Again at Asiarooms: Green Garden Beach Resort And Spa Resort Bali Indonesia and its own site: Green Garden Hotel Bali beach resort - Bali Hotel Kuta - Bali Cheap Hotel

Right up front, you can find hotels with more amenities and so on, but if you really want a feel of Balinese style and experience the wonderful people of Bali, we'd recommend these two places to anyone. And at $57 (upgrade to $70 for AC) and $48 (AC incl) respectively for the rooms, they're a great deal.
 
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